This is the stereo system I have put together, what do you think? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012 Thread Starter
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If you're going with the W3V3 class anyway why not get the stealthbox which will custom fit the side of the Mustang trunk?

It comes with a 13W3V3

Ford Mustang Coupe '10-Up - JL Audio

It's also carpet matched to the stock carpeting.
Because it's $700.00. I can get my sub, the two door speakers, & amp cheaper than buying the stealth box.


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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012 Thread Starter
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Is there that much difference between a 10" & 12"?


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Because it's $700.00. I can get my sub, the two door speakers, & amp cheaper than buying the stealth box.
But you still need a box, and someone to build it, that's going to cost cash. They've also tuned the Stealthbox for the Mustang.

How much cheaper is the sub you're getting?

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012 Thread Starter
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But you still need a box, and someone to build it, that's going to cost cash. They've also tuned the Stealthbox for the Mustang.

How much cheaper is the sub you're getting?

You can get them cheap on Amazon. I think I'm starting to lean towards a W0 or W1 12" or 10". Remember, I'm not looking at anything earth shattering.

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For a sub I went smaller, JL CP108LG-W3V3 FlatWedge 8" sub woofer. Sounds great, although I don't listen to rap or hip hop.

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...e-8W3v3-4.html

Trunk Subwoofer Pictures - Trunk Subwoofer Photos - Mustang Picture Gallery - AllFordMustangs.com

As for other JL amplifiers, you're going to have do an internet search for a spec sheet.

Here's another thread where I talk about my system. I also installed a potentiometer to control the amps output to the subwoofer. It's attached inside the console, and is adjusted as necessary. Basically on the radio I set the treble up a notch or two, keep the base flat, then adjust it with the remote.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...estions-2.html

There are lots of things to consider no matter which way you go. Good luck.


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Thanks for the help guys!

What about this amp? Does this one have the built in cross over like the XD700 does?
JL Audio XD600/6XD
Fake,

I believe your question here is, does this amp have speaker level inputs like the 700/5, and the answer to that is no. It does have built in cross overs for both low and high pass signals. Another consideration if you go with a 6 channel amp, since your sub will be bridged across channels 5 and 6, you will want to stay with the 4 ohm sub, as the bridging will cut this in half. And i would not run an amp at less than 2 ohms.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012 Thread Starter
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Ok, so if I go with the JL XD600, then I will need the JL Clean Sweep? Sorry for the ignorance. Obviously things have changed from when I was into this stuff 19 years ago.

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Ok, so if I go with the JL XD600, then I will need the JL Clean Sweep? Sorry for the ignorance. Obviously things have changed from when I was into this stuff 19 years ago.
Fake,

I originally used the cleansweep with my system and although it sounded great at first. it failed after a month or so. I now use the AudioControl LC2i (2 of them) one for the bass and one for the front. If you plan to amplify all four channels plus a sub ( i only amplify the front channels and a sub) then look into the LC6i. This Loc will take signals from your front subs, front 5X7's and rear 5X7's and sum them all together. If i were to do it again this is how I would do it.

Cheers.

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Uhhhhh.... Why are you keeping the awful stock head unit and trying to 'clean up' the signal by adding processing? Once the Ford unit cuts the amplitude of your low notes, 'reconstruction' is estimating at best, your low end will lack detail, or will be flat when the original recording was not. One should only use this signal processing when they have to, and as you're buying 5 channels of amplification (meaning you're re-running speaker wire anyway) and good equipment, you're doing yourself a huge dis-service by not replacing the brains of the operation. You're buying a W3 (same sub I've got in my Mustang) for sonic detail and accuracy, but your circuitry is taking that away.

A new head unit will have built in, adjustable crossovers ($ comes into play when we talk about how accurate / picky these will be) and will really let that system shine. Also, with this much power, $60 or so for a 1 Farad capacitor will keep your lights from flashing and reduce drain on your alternator during sudden surges of current to your sub. On a personal note, I found that getting two separate amplifiers (400w monoblock into 2 ohm and a 400w x 4) was the more economical route, but this was about 4 years ago. 400w is just right for that 12w3v3, at least in my slightly-smaller SN95
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Uhhhhh.... Why are you keeping the awful stock head unit and trying to 'clean up' the signal by adding processing? Once the Ford unit cuts the amplitude of your low notes, 'reconstruction' is estimating at best, your low end will lack detail, or will be flat when the original recording was not. One should only use this signal processing when they have to, and as you're buying 5 channels of amplification (meaning you're re-running speaker wire anyway) and good equipment, you're doing yourself a huge dis-service by not replacing the brains of the operation. You're buying a W3 (same sub I've got in my Mustang) for sonic detail and accuracy, but your circuitry is taking that away.

A new head unit will have built in, adjustable crossovers ($ comes into play when we talk about how accurate / picky these will be) and will really let that system shine. Also, with this much power, $60 or so for a 1 Farad capacitor will keep your lights from flashing and reduce drain on your alternator during sudden surges of current to your sub. On a personal note, I found that getting two separate amplifiers (400w monoblock into 2 ohm and a 400w x 4) was the more economical route, but this was about 4 years ago. 400w is just right for that 12w3v3, at least in my slightly-smaller SN95
I can appreciate your opinion, as I shared it with systems that I installed in some of my older cars, but the head unit in the shaker systems is actually a very good unit. Will you get better and cleaner with something aftermarket, you can with the right unit. But let's not forget that some of these systems like mine have sync, navi, bluethooth, ipod integration and steering wheel controls. I like the functionality of these features, and don't see the need to re-install them aftermarket. I did that in my '06 F-350, but it had a standard BS ford stereo. With regards to your comment on the signal processing, units like the LC6i, take signal from your factory subs, front, and rear channels. It is not "reconstructing" anything, it is summing the signals together in order to create a full range output. In my system i use individual LOC's, one for the sub signal and one for the fronts. Quite frankly it is the one of the best sounding system i have installed. Plus it looks and acts completely like a stock system, unless you open the trunk, that doesn't look very stock.

As far as a cap goes, I have one in my '85 T/A with a small 5 channel amp and 10" sub, it definitely needs it. But in the 5.0, i am running a 400x4 and a 1000x1 (to 2 12" jl audio subs). I have no cap, no noise, and zero dimming headlights even when i pump that hip hop sh!t.

Now I am just here offering an opinion as someone who used to feel like you, who gave this new approach a try, and was very pleasantly suprised. Keyser Soze is a legend and has my respect so please don't kill me and the family for my opinion. (Usual Suspect was an awesome movie)

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I can appreciate your opinion, as I shared it with systems that I installed in some of my older cars, but the head unit in the shaker systems is actually a very good unit. Will you get better and cleaner with something aftermarket, you can with the right unit. But let's not forget that some of these systems like mine have sync, navi, bluethooth, ipod integration and steering wheel controls. I like the functionality of these features, and don't see the need to re-install them aftermarket. I did that in my '06 F-350, but it had a standard BS ford stereo. With regards to your comment on the signal processing, units like the LC6i, take signal from your factory subs, front, and rear channels. It is not "reconstructing" anything, it is summing the signals together in order to create a full range output. In my system i use individual LOC's, one for the sub signal and one for the fronts. Quite frankly it is the one of the best sounding system i have installed. Plus it looks and acts completely like a stock system, unless you open the trunk, that doesn't look very stock.

As far as a cap goes, I have one in my '85 T/A with a small 5 channel amp and 10" sub, it definitely needs it. But in the 5.0, i am running a 400x4 and a 1000x1 (to 2 12" jl audio subs). I have no cap, no noise, and zero dimming headlights even when i pump that hip hop sh!t.

Now I am just here offering an opinion as someone who used to feel like you, who gave this new approach a try, and was very pleasantly suprised. Keyser Soze is a legend and has my respect so please don't kill me and the family for my opinion. (Usual Suspect was an awesome movie)
Well thought out post, and that's very heartening about your system on a newer Mustang with no lack of current coming out of that alternator. However, I thought the OP had the base stereo in his Mustang... thus he wouldn't lose any functionality by swapping the unit for something with better processing. If he wants the OEM look, definitely something to be said there, especially from a theft perspective.

With respect to the Shaker system, I'm sure it's not bad, but you're still summing outputs that have already been filtered by the Ford head unit, line-out-converted or not - and if it's lowered (or downright eliminated) part of your subwoofer spectrum, you won't get it back as if you'd had a dedicated output from a quality aftermarket head unit. Taking the relevant lowest-frequency signal, the head unit lowering the response of anything below, say, 50 Hz, and then adding that signal to the others that don't include this frequency to 'reconstruct' that content seems a little suspicious to me. Maybe that's not how the Ford radio works, but from what I've read in this thread, the head unit lowers bass response based on volume (probably to keep the stockers from blowing the unit or rattling the doors). If you find the response to be satisfying with your equipment, I'm probably wrong about something, not sure.

Of course, in YOUR case the LC6i solution is 1000x more logical, as you retain all the OEM comforts you paid for and trash those Chinese paper cones Ford gave you for something much better. Matter of fact, I'm looking at a 201x GT Premium whenever my car manages to die, and I was planning on doing much of what you said above. I'm glad to hear it sounds awesome. But for Fake, it seems like he'd be better served swapping that unit: from a sound perspective anyway.

As for your family, they'll remain safe . Hopefully I'll have a ride worthy of my namesake soon.
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