What are the Shaker 500 specs? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012
LegendaryFire
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What are the Shaker 500 specs?

I am a huge audiophile, I'm wondering on the Shaker 500 specs. What is the specs for per speaker and total as I plan on upgrading along same with the subwoofers? Should I just buy a new amplifier and go from there, or is the factory a good quality amp?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012
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They probably arnt any more than 25w per speaker. You would be better off relacing the headunit, amp(s), and speakers.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012
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They probably arnt any more than 25w per speaker. You would be better off relacing the headunit, amp(s), and speakers.
I already have an aftermarket stereo deck (Pioneer AVIC Touchscreen Navigation, DVD). I remember watching a youtube video of replacing the whole stereo system and the factory amplifier was mounted by the driver side door making it extremely hard to wire things through to get your speaker wire in there. I went down to a local audio shop and I got a quote for 7,000 dollars. It better be well worth it, although that is all top-notch stuff. Although it has to be more than that, by far. That is what you would expect from a stock stereo deck with no amplifier. With my Pioneer deck and the factory amplifier my speakers begin to clip at 18/40 volume which is already very loud!
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012
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The regular door and deck speakers are just 25 watterís, with the HU delivering about 22 watts max to each of those. However the door woofers are special 1 ohm dual voice coil units. The shaker amps are high current devices that are designed to drive those ridiculously heavy loads with 10 amps or more. So the door woofer power gets up to around 100 watts each side (I havenít had the parts set up on the bench to get exact numbers). With the unique design of the woofer/amp combination if you substitute one you have to substitute the other too, i.e. the shaker amps wonít deliver any more power into a standard 4 ohm woofer than the HU could. $7,000 sounds nuts though, no matter what they do. You donít mention what year your pony is, but it may only blue book for a few thousand more than that total.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012
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The regular door and deck speakers are just 25 watterís, with the HU delivering about 22 watts max to each of those. However the door woofers are special 1 ohm dual voice coil units. The shaker amps are high current devices that are designed to drive those ridiculously heavy loads with 10 amps or more. So the door woofer power gets up to around 100 watts each side (I havenít had the parts set up on the bench to get exact numbers). With the unique design of the woofer/amp combination if you substitute one you have to substitute the other too, i.e. the shaker amps wonít deliver any more power into a standard 4 ohm woofer than the HU could. $7,000 sounds nuts though, no matter what they do. You donít mention what year your pony is, but it may only blue book for a few thousand more than that total.
Sorry I forgot to mention that, it's a 2007 Mustang GT! Also, by the sounds of it I would be better off going the aftermarket everything route? Also, have you ever had an issue removing the amplifier and replacing with an aftermarket one? If so, where did you mount it?
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012
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The Ford Shaker stuff is fairly unique in design. To replace any aspect of it means that you pretty much need to go aftermarket for all of it. What are your goals for the sound system anyways? Better tonality? Louder sound? The current one should already be able to achieve SPLs in the cabin of around 105 - 110 dB. Prolonged exposure to sound above 90 dB causes permanent hearing damage. Exposure to 120 dB + causes immediate and permanent damage. Is there a specific aspect of the current system that you donít like? Once you define your goals then you can start getting into the specifics of achieving it and selecting gear. After youíve developed a concept for what gear you want then practical issues can start to be figured out, component location, wiring, etc.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2012
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For $7000.00 I'd put a supercharger on it and listen to the exhaust instead!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2012
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The Ford Shaker stuff is fairly unique in design. To replace any aspect of it means that you pretty much need to go aftermarket for all of it. What are your goals for the sound system anyways? Better tonality? Louder sound? The current one should already be able to achieve SPLs in the cabin of around 105 - 110 dB. Prolonged exposure to sound above 90 dB causes permanent hearing damage. Exposure to 120 dB + causes immediate and permanent damage. Is there a specific aspect of the current system that you donít like? Once you define your goals then you can start getting into the specifics of achieving it and selecting gear. After youíve developed a concept for what gear you want then practical issues can start to be figured out, component location, wiring, etc.
I am a HARD bass fan although I like to hear the mid and high notes while my doors are nearly falling off. I love my music loud, but can't seem to turn it high enough to meet my satisfaction without hearing them clip.
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2012
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I am a HARD bass fan although I like to hear the mid and high notes while my doors are nearly falling off. I love my music loud, but can't seem to turn it high enough to meet my satisfaction without hearing them clip.
What youíre describing would be fairly expensive, and would probably need a 200 amp alternator, adding to the cost and trouble. It would also involve significant mods to the car which could hurt the resale value.

If youíre a big bass fan as you say youíd probably want woofers in the trunk as well as the door ones. An upgrade in the four main speakers to higher efficiency drivers to help with the SPL wouldnít be cheap either. External amps to drive the four would be a good idea, with an EQ between the HU and amps to help the mids and highs stand out as you want. Retail cost for the parts is going to get fairly high (probably over $2K). Thatís assuming you can do the work yourself. So a basic list would be:

(2) door woofers
(2) trunk woofers + enclosure
(4) main speakers
(8-12) amplifier channels, depending on if the woofers are dual voice coil or not
(2) EQ channels
(1) 200 amp alternator
Misc wire, connectors, fuses, & hardware

A good set of headphones might be a lot easier and cheaper.
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he may even want 3 subwoofers in the trunk.

Personally if it was me and I wanted a crazy bass machine I would go buy an explorer/expedition, or something similar that had space for all the subwoofers and extras I wanted, cause this kind of system in a stang is going to kill a lot of the interior and trunk space.

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For $7000.00 I'd put a supercharger on it and listen to the exhaust instead!

that's more like it!

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I upgraded my Shaker 500 by replacing the head unit with an Alpine, replaced the 4 5x7's with Boston Acoustics and replaced the subs with the Kicker/Shelby replacements. Subs are running off the factory amps and they have plenty of kick. In fact I donít run them at full power; itís just not my taste. Im also using Alpines KTP-445 Power Pack amp that pushes a true 45w to each 5x7 speaker. My head units max volume is 40, anything over 20 is to loud for me. Zero distortion too.

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Man, 7k is way over the top. You can get an insane all around sound with just a single amp. The JL HD 900/5 is one of the best amps i have ever been around. Just 900 total watts runs my entire set up and man does it sound like a concert. I only have one 13.5 but it sounds good enough for me. You can easily wire another one for extra bass if needed. The highs and mids are ridiculous. With minimal power, and just a little bit of light dim. It is a really cheap and loud way to go!!!

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I don't mean to hijack the thread but I was just about to purchase a new touch screen head unit on my shaker 500 system. I got the setup and 2 12" subs with amp in the trunk already. How much benefit would I get out of installing one of these minus the two more expensive ones http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/produ...mera+Input|Yes

Which one would y'all choose and also what other gear is necessary to get everything working? I heard I would need some kind of extra harness cable to work with shaker 500 setup? Can someone help me out here as well thanks


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