2013 Mustang upgrade questions - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012 Thread Starter
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2013 Mustang upgrade questions

I have a base model 2013 on order and I'm trying to get all my parts lined up for when it gets here in the next few weeks, mainly for the stereo. I'm gonna get a double din with probably the new touch screen Metra unit, already have 4 new 5x7' speakers and I'd like to put a 12" sub and amp in the trunk. I'm not an experienced stereo install guy but from all the threads I've got saved on installs then I can manage to do it myself because I really don't want some boneheads at the local Car Audio shop to tear into my new car and charge me $500 to do so. I'll have no problems with the HU and 5x7's but I've never messed with Subs or an amp and don't know what all wiring accessories I will need. Now to my questions.

1. I was looking at the JL Audio stealthbox as a sub because I need all the trunk space i can get and they seem to get good reviews. I don't want to rattle the whole neighborhood with bass but I'd like to have a good thump on the inside when I'm in the mood for it. This piece is pretty expensive but probably would be close to the same for a sub and built box from the local shop (they are pretty high). Is this piece worth the money?

2. I have no idea about amps other than what I read on Crutchfield so I'm not sure which kind I need for my setup. The stealthbox says its rated for 150-600 watts RMS so I thought about a 300-500 watt amp would be sufficient for good bass, am I wrong? Also says Stealthbox is wired for 4-ohms mono so would I need a mono class D 4 ohm amp? I was thinking the HU would be good enough to run the 5x7's since I don't really turn it up very loud and the Shaker 500 with just new front 5x7's in my 2011 sounds pretty dang good to me.

3. Lastly, what all kind of wiring would I need for the sub and amp? I assume I need something to wire the amp to the battery, rca jacks for the sub to the amp, I've read on here about a line convertor (I don't know what that is), what about something I can adjust the power of the bass by turning a knob or something? With the new HU will I need to run new wiring to the 5x7's or will the stock wires work since the stock harness just plugs into the back of the HU?

I might just end up installing the HU and 5x7's by myself then paying to have the sub and amp installed depending on what info I can find about it. Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for any help with my questions.

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012
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1. That sub alone is ~$200. I think the stealthbox is like $700? so you're paying $500 for the box?! I'm not sure how much a local shop would make a box, though if you have some woodworking skills try making your own it isn't that hard with the right tools.

2. You don't NEED a class D, however they are very efficient and run cooler as well I highly recommend it. Try to get one that is rated around '600W RMS @ 4 ohms' a little higher is fine. The amps will probably have different ratings depending on the ohms. Make sure you look at the rating at 4 ohms since that is the rating of your sub.

I'm not really familiar with the shaker 500 amp for your 5x7s so I can't help you there. Personally I run an amp on my components.

3. I'm not sure if the 2013 has rca outputs on the stock HU. If it doesn't you'll need a line out converter. It allows you to connect the speaker level signal from speaker wire into rcas so you can hook it up to your amp.

As far as wiring goes you can just get a 4 gauge amp kit. HOWEVER, not all amp kits are equal. A lot of cheap kits advertise 4 gauge, but when you strip the insulation it reveals something closer to 8 gauge.
Also look for OFC (oxygen free copper) instead of CCA (copper clad aluminum) as they conduct electricity much better although will be slightly more expensive.

If you want to buy the parts separately you'll need:
4 gauge wire - Not sure how long you need but you can get 25ft to be on the safe side. I think I used ~18 ft for the power and 1 ft for ground. Shorter the better.
Fuse - place it as close to the battery as possible
Ring Terminals - for the 4 gauge
Speaker wires - for sub ( if it's not included with stealth box)
RCA cables - connect line out converter to amp.
Remote Turn on wire - simply 18 awg stranded wire it turns the amp on when the headunit powers on.

I might be missing some other stuff you can always look at a pre-made amp kit as a check list lol.

08 V6 Mustang
JLT CAI, 93 OCT race tune, pypes x-pipe w/ gt take offs, 8.8" w/ 3.73, shaftmasters 3.5" aluminum driveshaft, gt front/rear swaybars.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-28-2012
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I had a custom box made. Check out my thread here:


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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hingedthinker View Post
I had a custom box made. Check out my thread here:

Do you have the first or second model Metra unit and how do you like it? will I need any kind of harness for it or my new HU?
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012 Thread Starter
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Got the Scosche kit with new HU, JL Audio stealthbox and amp all hooked up. It sounds pretty dang good. Can only turn the radio halfway up before the interior starts vibrating pretty bad and eardrums start hurting. Only downside is with an auto tranny and the shifter in park then it's pretty hard to get to the HU, lol. Nothing a remote won't fix though. Scosche kit looks and works well, overall happy with everything so far.

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