2011-2014 Mustang (base) speaker replacement procedure. - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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So, what was the issue with installing the speakers with the stock amp? Did it give you any improvement over the stock speakers?

I really don't feel like dealing with installing an amp, etc at this point but if I could get some improvement over the stock suck ass speakers - I would replace them immediately.

Thoughts?


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So, what was the issue with installing the speakers with the stock amp? Did it give you any improvement over the stock speakers?

I really don't feel like dealing with installing an amp, etc at this point but if I could get some improvement over the stock suck ass speakers - I would replace them immediately.

Thoughts?
The issue is the head unit will be mostly under powered. So, unless you buy speakers specifically designed for low running RMS (which also means they won't be as loud for clarity), you won't be gaining much in the way of sound.

Not only that, but good amps are known for removing unwanted noise out of the sound signals that are being sent to the speakers.

An additional and (important to me) fact about the stock headunits in just about any car is that they naturally reduce bass (typically as you turn the volume knob up) so as to not damage their flimsy cheap speakers.

So now, even if you have high quality speakers that can handle more bass, they won't receive it and they may start to sound off as you raise the volume. That's where a sound processor comes in (or a new head unit.)

Finally, stock speaker wiring is thin and bound to introduce noise and/or reduce the overall quality of the signal being sent to your speakers, further reducing the sound quality (regardless of how expensive your speakers are.)


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So if I have a mono channel amp laying around would I need a 5 channel amp still or just a 4 channel. I am going to try and survive on the shaker stereo for awhile but I know I will change out the stereo eventually.

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So if I have a mono channel amp laying around would I need a 5 channel amp still or just a 4 channel. I am going to try and survive on the shaker stereo for awhile but I know I will change out the stereo eventually.
You can use your mono amp in conjuction with a 4-channel amp to get the power that you desire.

Most common folk go for 5 channel amps as it reduces complexity and overhead. It typically makes things easier.

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So if I have a mono channel amp laying around would I need a 5 channel amp still or just a 4 channel. I am going to try and survive on the shaker stereo for awhile but I know I will change out the stereo eventually.
Sure.

Just run one 4ga wire to your trunk and a 4ga ground, and use a distribution block and run 8ga wire to the amps.

Wiring may need to be bigger. But most 3-500 rms watt amps are fine on 8ga.

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Quote:
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You can use your mono amp in conjuction with a 4-channel amp to get the power that you desire.

Most common folk go for 5 channel amps as it reduces complexity and overhead. It typically makes things easier.
K. I might consider just going with the one amp. ty for the answer.

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Quote:
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Sure.

Just run one 4ga wire to your trunk and a 4ga ground, and use a distribution block and run 8ga wire to the amps.

Wiring may need to be bigger. But most 3-500 rms watt amps are fine on 8ga.
Ok. I actually got a distribution block laying around too. When the system out of my cavalier got taken I kept the block.

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post #23 of 86 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidhadriel View Post
The issue is the head unit will be mostly under powered. So, unless you buy speakers specifically designed for low running RMS (which also means they won't be as loud for clarity), you won't be gaining much in the way of sound.

Not only that, but good amps are known for removing unwanted noise out of the sound signals that are being sent to the speakers.

An additional and (important to me) fact about the stock headunits in just about any car is that they naturally reduce bass (typically as you turn the volume knob up) so as to not damage their flimsy cheap speakers.

So now, even if you have high quality speakers that can handle more bass, they won't receive it and they may start to sound off as you raise the volume. That's where a sound processor comes in (or a new head unit.)

Finally, stock speaker wiring is thin and bound to introduce noise and/or reduce the overall quality of the signal being sent to your speakers, further reducing the sound quality (regardless of how expensive your speakers are.)
All very valid points. The paradox about putting in quality speakers, is that you are only fixing half the problem, as the head unit amp will not be able to drive the upgraded speakers to their full potential. It then becomes a game of 'find the sweet spot' with both the volume control, and the bass/treble. This also is entirely dependent on your source material as well, some older recordings will have very low levels requiring you to turn the volume knob up to a higher level, while more modern recordings will be terribly distorted at the same volume level. I took the time to put some songs on a demo CD to try and show the capabilities and limitations of the stock amp. I just used my iPhone and used various songs from different artists. You can see from the short clips of each song below where the bass/treble is adjusted to try and produce better sound, as well as various volume settings. I would adjust the volume to where it would start to distort and sound harsh, and then back it off to the loudest setting where it wasn't distorting. This is by no means a high quality test or 'reference quality' audio, but it's better than nothing and you may be surprised at some of the bits of sound detail you can pick out of the following tracks. The one that I liked the best was the 'spoons' in Spoonman. Also like the half way decent percussion at the start of Who's got the Fire? Base Premium Stereo - Test 1 - Aja - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 2 - FM - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 3 - Time out of Mind - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 4 - Dragula - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 5 - Second Chance - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 6 - Gasoline - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 7 - Holding Back the Years - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 8 - Spoonman - YouTube Base Premium Stereo - Test 9 - Who's got the Fire - YouTube
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I have the Shaker Pro. Is the only difference the sub box in the trunk? Are the replacement options & procedures the same as for the standard system? While the Shaker Pro has more power & bass, the sound quality still sounds thin.
Thanks for your input.

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post #25 of 86 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012 Thread Starter
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I believe the Shaker & Shaker Pro systems have a 'box component' type of speaker in the doors, and not the flat 'plate type' as shown in the base model here. That's why there has been discussion on finding and ordering mounting brackets for replacement aftermarket component speakers.

Eventually I want to replace the 6x8's up front with these;

C5-525 - Car Audio - Evolution® - C5 - Component Systems - JL Audio

I have a set of GT door panels that had Shaker 8" speakers, and will add a pair of these;

8W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

provided they aren't too deep, otherwise will have to go with;

8W1v2-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v2 - JL Audio

Coupled with an Alpine amp, should be one hell of an upgrade...

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Thanks ace72ace. Sounds like I'm in over my head. Guess I better do some research or visit a car audio shop.

Dave

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace72ace View Post
I have a set of GT door panels that had Shaker 8" speakers, and will add a pair of these;

8W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

provided they aren't too deep, otherwise will have to go with;

8W1v2-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v2 - JL Audio
If you're going to do that big of an upgrade, you might want to think about a sub in the trunk. My guess is those door woofers will have your doors/car rattling for sure, if they're not already. Although the best reason might be because it'll sound much better too. Good luck.


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Here's a sweet deal on the sub I have.

JL Audio Subwoofer ported wedge microsub CP108LG-W3v3 | eBay


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ace72ace- Thank you so much for the great photos and step-by-step instructions on how to change those front speakers. I, for one, really appreciate it the effort you put into this post. I changed out the fronts of my 2013 Base V6 this morning and it was a breeze thanks to your pics.

I'm not an audiophile when it comes to my car, so that's the only upgrade I'm going to do, but it sure made a difference. The stock speakers were muddy, and that's being kind, so the new Pioneer TS-A6874R 3-ways I put in ($45.95 Amazon) were a super upgrade for the price. Much clearer sound. Also, thanks for showing the Metra connectors- I took the number off of your picture and ordered those, too. 1 1/2 hours and $50.00 later, and I've got a better sounding ride. Taking a 4 1/2 hour trip later today and I know I'll enjoy every minute of it more now that I did the swap.
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And if you think that sounds good, try changing the front 5X7s to a component speaker system with a 5.25" woofer and a 1.75" tweeter. HUGE improvement in sound quality.


But virtually anything will sound better than the cheap Chinese paper speakers that Ford uses. Ford should be ashamed of themselves for using such a cheap and crappy sound system. Even my old 98 Honda Civic had a better base model stereo than the Mustang.

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