Replacement speakers for 2013 Shaker 500? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012 Thread Starter
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Replacement speakers for 2013 Shaker 500?

I hate the way this system sounds. I can't get it to EQ worth a crap (even using iPod EQ presets). Has anyone just simply replaced the factory speakers and had improved sound? If so, can someone point me in the direction of what works best, or what most people end up going with?


Thanks guys...


2013 Premium GT/CS 6MT, ProCharger P1 Stage 2, ID1000 injectors, Autometer and 2 Aeroforce Interceptor gauges, SOS A-pillar, Whiteline positive shift kit, 3.73 gears, Kooks headers and catted X-pipe, Lethal engine mounts, Barton 2 post bracket, GT500 shift knob and boot, GT-500 axle backs, Eibach Pro's, Steeda panhard, AMR 19x8.5/9.5 wheels w/GT's, shorty ant, HERTZ- HDP5 amp and Hi Energy 6.5's/Audison Bit 10-D EQ/Audiomobile 12" with custom enclosure
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012
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I just swapped out the speakers in my 2012. The 2013 is a bit different on the door speakers though. The speakers are a component and tweeter in an enclosure, and the mount doesn't fit aftermarket speakers.



What I would first suggest doing is finding a 2010-2012 Mustang door speaker mounts, either from a junk yard, online, or through Ford. That would make it a lot easier to mount aftermarket speakers.


Now, in my car I installed a set of Polk Audio Db5251s in the door using a Metra 6X8 adapter plate, and MM571s in the rear. The Db5251s are a pair of 5.25" component speakers coupled with separate 1.75" tweeters. The MM571 are 5X7 speakers, same size as factory.

The door speakers required a bit of modification to the factory mount. Specifically I had to use a utility knife to cut off the 4 verticle tabs, then cut a small U shape to fit the tweeter in the hole, and 2 triangle notches on the other end to fit the screws from the 5.25" speaker in the adapter plate. The plastic used in the mount is fairly soft and cuts easily. It only took about 5 minutes to get the speakers to fit without rattling.

The rear speakers are much easier, although you do have to strip much of the interior to get to them. Once there though, the 5X7 speakers will bolt right in.


BTW, both sets of speakers come with their own passive crossovers. I found the easiest way to mount them was to use velcro tape. I stuck the crossover for the door speakers in the top part of the interior door panel about even with the seat back, and the rears I just stuck to the bottom of the rear deck. Using velcro both provides cushion to prevent them from rattling, and it allows them to be easily removed should I ever need to.


I'll tell you right now that the sound quality difference is like night and day. Ford uses some cheap, nasty, Chinese made paper speakers that sound like the came from the 70s. Just swapping out the door and rear speakers with some really good ones will completely change the sound of the system.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Convert View Post
I just swapped out the speakers in my 2012. The 2013 is a bit different on the door speakers though. The speakers are a component and tweeter in an enclosure, and the mount doesn't fit aftermarket speakers.



What I would first suggest doing is finding a 2010-2012 Mustang door speaker mounts, either from a junk yard, online, or through Ford. That would make it a lot easier to mount aftermarket speakers.


Now, in my car I installed a set of Polk Audio Db5251s in the door using a Metra 6X8 adapter plate, and MM571s in the rear. The Db5251s are a pair of 5.25" component speakers coupled with separate 1.75" tweeters. The MM571 are 5X7 speakers, same size as factory.

The door speakers required a bit of modification to the factory mount. Specifically I had to use a utility knife to cut off the 4 verticle tabs, then cut a small U shape to fit the tweeter in the hole, and 2 triangle notches on the other end to fit the screws from the 5.25" speaker in the adapter plate. The plastic used in the mount is fairly soft and cuts easily. It only took about 5 minutes to get the speakers to fit without rattling.

The rear speakers are much easier, although you do have to strip much of the interior to get to them. Once there though, the 5X7 speakers will bolt right in.


BTW, both sets of speakers come with their own passive crossovers. I found the easiest way to mount them was to use velcro tape. I stuck the crossover for the door speakers in the top part of the interior door panel about even with the seat back, and the rears I just stuck to the bottom of the rear deck. Using velcro both provides cushion to prevent them from rattling, and it allows them to be easily removed should I ever need to.


I'll tell you right now that the sound quality difference is like night and day. Ford uses some cheap, nasty, Chinese made paper speakers that sound like the came from the 70s. Just swapping out the door and rear speakers with some really good ones will completely change the sound of the system.
What is a tweeter and what is a passive crossover?

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titusdrake View Post
What is a tweeter and what is a passive crossover?

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A tweeter is a small speaker used to create high frequency sounds.

To get the best audio quality you want to seperate the sounds and play them on seperate speakers as much as possible. High frequencies through small tweeters, midrange though component or coaxial speakers (4" circle to 6X9 oval speakers) and low frequencies through woofers and subwoofers.

The more seperation you can get the more clear each sound will be, and you won't get volume inconsistencies. A speaker has a hard time trying to produce both high range treble and deep bass at the same time. Depending on the size of the speaker, one of the two will be lost. So, if you're listening to music with both you may notice the bass cuts out when a lot of treble is produced, or visa versa.


So, that is why you want a seperate tweeter to get the best clear high frequency sound, and a subwoofer to always get deep bass tones without any volume fade. Also, round speakers will always produce a more faithful sound than oval speakers, but you've got to be a bit anal to really care about that.



As for crossovers, they limit what frequencies are sent to each speaker. This improves sound separation and reduces distortion, since each sound is only produced by the correct speaker. A passive crossover is one that does not require a separate power source. They are small speaker-level crossovers rather than a powered crossover which you would use if you were splicing in a separate amp for a subwoofer into your rear speaker leads. In that case you would use the crossover to separate the deep bass tones and send only those to the subwoofer rather than the rear speakers.

In the case of my Db5251, since they have a 5.25" component and a 1.75" tweeter, the crossover is used to send only the high frequency tones to the tweeter, and only mid range tones to the 5.25" speaker. This keeps both speakers from trying to produce sounds that are out of their ideal range, which eliminates volume fade and distortion.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Convert View Post
A tweeter is a small speaker used to create high frequency sounds.

To get the best audio quality you want to seperate the sounds and play them on seperate speakers as much as possible. High frequencies through small tweeters, midrange though component or coaxial speakers (4" circle to 6X9 oval speakers) and low frequencies through woofers and subwoofers.

The more seperation you can get the more clear each sound will be, and you won't get volume inconsistencies. A speaker has a hard time trying to produce both high range treble and deep bass at the same time. Depending on the size of the speaker, one of the two will be lost. So, if you're listening to music with both you may notice the bass cuts out when a lot of treble is produced, or visa versa.


So, that is why you want a seperate tweeter to get the best clear high frequency sound, and a subwoofer to always get deep bass tones without any volume fade. Also, round speakers will always produce a more faithful sound than oval speakers, but you've got to be a bit anal to really care about that.



As for crossovers, they limit what frequencies are sent to each speaker. This improves sound separation and reduces distortion, since each sound is only produced by the correct speaker. A passive crossover is one that does not require a separate power source. They are small speaker-level crossovers rather than a powered crossover which you would use if you were splicing in a separate amp for a subwoofer into your rear speaker leads. In that case you would use the crossover to separate the deep bass tones and send only those to the subwoofer rather than the rear speakers.

In the case of my Db5251, since they have a 5.25" component and a 1.75" tweeter, the crossover is used to send only the high frequency tones to the tweeter, and only mid range tones to the 5.25" speaker. This keeps both speakers from trying to produce sounds that are out of their ideal range, which eliminates volume fade and distortion.
ok. That makes sense. So your door speakers are actually two speakers in one?

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titusdrake View Post
ok. That makes sense. So your door speakers are actually two speakers in one?
Not exactly. They are two seperate speakers on each side.






Usually in a component speaker setup the tweeter will be located on the A-pillar about half way up the windshield with the woofer in the door. I didn't want to cut holes in the A-pillar and mess with the wiring, so I just got the adapter plate and put both speakers in the door. It's not ideal, but it sounds miles better than the factory speakers, and looks entirely stock.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012
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How much would it approximately cost for the whole setup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Convert View Post
I just swapped out the speakers in my 2012. The 2013 is a bit different on the door speakers though. The speakers are a component and tweeter in an enclosure, and the mount doesn't fit aftermarket speakers.



What I would first suggest doing is finding a 2010-2012 Mustang door speaker mounts, either from a junk yard, online, or through Ford. That would make it a lot easier to mount aftermarket speakers.


Now, in my car I installed a set of Polk Audio Db5251s in the door using a Metra 6X8 adapter plate, and MM571s in the rear. The Db5251s are a pair of 5.25" component speakers coupled with separate 1.75" tweeters. The MM571 are 5X7 speakers, same size as factory.

The door speakers required a bit of modification to the factory mount. Specifically I had to use a utility knife to cut off the 4 verticle tabs, then cut a small U shape to fit the tweeter in the hole, and 2 triangle notches on the other end to fit the screws from the 5.25" speaker in the adapter plate. The plastic used in the mount is fairly soft and cuts easily. It only took about 5 minutes to get the speakers to fit without rattling.

The rear speakers are much easier, although you do have to strip much of the interior to get to them. Once there though, the 5X7 speakers will bolt right in.


BTW, both sets of speakers come with their own passive crossovers. I found the easiest way to mount them was to use velcro tape. I stuck the crossover for the door speakers in the top part of the interior door panel about even with the seat back, and the rears I just stuck to the bottom of the rear deck. Using velcro both provides cushion to prevent them from rattling, and it allows them to be easily removed should I ever need to.


I'll tell you right now that the sound quality difference is like night and day. Ford uses some cheap, nasty, Chinese made paper speakers that sound like the came from the 70s. Just swapping out the door and rear speakers with some really good ones will completely change the sound of the system.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012
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To upgrade the door and rear speakers, about $295.

Polk Audio DB5251 = $110
Polk Audio MM571 = $175
Metra 6X8 Adapter = $10

To do the full sound system upgrade that I am doing will cost a total of about $1,100. Along with the above speakers, I am adding in this as well....

Polk Audio MM1240 12" subwoofer = $160
Alpine MRX V70 amp = $280
4 gauge wiring kit = $75
50 foot 14 gauge speaker wire = $10
Misc. Supplies (tape, rubber washers, velcro) = $25
MTX Thunderform FMUST05 Subwoofer enclosure = $255


That includes the MTX enclosure, which is very expensive. You could get a cheaper enclosure for less than half the price that wouldn't look quite as nice but would sound just as good. Those prices also include shipping.


Once it's done it will both be louder, and sound better than the Shaker 1000 systems.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012
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Thanks for the info.. I will definitely be upgrading and this could be one of the routes I might take.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Convert View Post
To upgrade the door and rear speakers, about $295.
Polk Audio DB5251 = $110
Polk Audio MM571 = $175
Metra 6X8 Adapter = $10
To do the full sound system upgrade that I am doing will cost a total of about $1,100. Along with the above speakers, I am adding in this as well....
Polk Audio MM1240 12" subwoofer = $160
Alpine MRX V70 amp = $280
4 gauge wiring kit = $75
50 foot 14 gauge speaker wire = $10
Misc. Supplies (tape, rubber washers, velcro) = $25
MTX Thunderform FMUST05 Subwoofer enclosure = $255
That includes the MTX enclosure, which is very expensive. You could get a cheaper enclosure for less than half the price that wouldn't look quite as nice but would sound just as good. Those prices also include shipping.
Once it's done it will both be louder, and sound better than the Shaker 1000 systems.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-08-2012 Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the info guys! I ended up getting my buddy who owns a car audio store to help me out. Tomorrow the surgery begins, should be finished on Friday. All Hertz equipment.

2013 Premium GT/CS 6MT, ProCharger P1 Stage 2, ID1000 injectors, Autometer and 2 Aeroforce Interceptor gauges, SOS A-pillar, Whiteline positive shift kit, 3.73 gears, Kooks headers and catted X-pipe, Lethal engine mounts, Barton 2 post bracket, GT500 shift knob and boot, GT-500 axle backs, Eibach Pro's, Steeda panhard, AMR 19x8.5/9.5 wheels w/GT's, shorty ant, HERTZ- HDP5 amp and Hi Energy 6.5's/Audison Bit 10-D EQ/Audiomobile 12" with custom enclosure
606/505 SAE
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I have done some searching and chatted with crutchfiled and am contemplating this setup

Alpine MRX-V70
Crutchfield $400 Link
Amazon $280 Link
eBay $254 Link

MTX ThunderForm
Crutchfield $350 Link
Amazon $350 Link
eBay $300 Link


AudioControl LC6i
Crutchfield $150 Link
Amazon $105 Link
Ebay $115 Link


Polk Audio db5251 (Front Door Speakers)
Crutchfield $189 Link
Amazon $105 Link
Ebay $108 Link

Polk Audio db571 (Rear Speakers)
Crutchfield $99 Link
Amazon $61 Link
eBay $62 Link


Total Setup Cost
From Crutchfield: $1188
From Amazon: $901
From eBay: $839

What do you guys think?? Any suggestions for changes??
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I wouldn't buy anything from Crutchfield unless you enjoy paying full retail - which you can see from your research. The only "plus" from the Crutch are the install procedures, but that can easily be found on a forum.
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check out zenclosure they offer a custom box for the mustang that is cheaper than the thunderform. i just came from a G35 and a lot of G35 and 350Z guys use the zenclosure box. Custom Sub Enclosure | Affordable Sub Box
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtial View Post
Thanks for all of the info guys! I ended up getting my buddy who owns a car audio store to help me out. Tomorrow the surgery begins, should be finished on Friday. All Hertz equipment.
Did you ever upgradeyour stereo and if so did you use the 2010-2013 speaker mounts??

Shawn
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012 Thread Starter
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I did upgrade, but we made custom mounts in the doors for the 6.5's The 8"is there but no longer used. Here are some pics of the install-

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2013 Premium GT/CS 6MT, ProCharger P1 Stage 2, ID1000 injectors, Autometer and 2 Aeroforce Interceptor gauges, SOS A-pillar, Whiteline positive shift kit, 3.73 gears, Kooks headers and catted X-pipe, Lethal engine mounts, Barton 2 post bracket, GT500 shift knob and boot, GT-500 axle backs, Eibach Pro's, Steeda panhard, AMR 19x8.5/9.5 wheels w/GT's, shorty ant, HERTZ- HDP5 amp and Hi Energy 6.5's/Audison Bit 10-D EQ/Audiomobile 12" with custom enclosure
606/505 SAE
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