2012 Amp and Sub install, outcome - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012 Thread Starter
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2012 Amp and Sub install, outcome

So I installed an amp and subs (two 10's JL Audio, Alpine amp)

and it's funny how many pathetic rattles there are. Something under the car in the area of the gas tank rattles, the mirror rattles. Go figure? I've owned dozens of vehicles and had subs in the car and this is a first. (mirror). And the even funnier part is that it wasn't even loud. No, it isn't the exhaust rattling, it sounds like a vibrating cavalier standing outside the car. I'm really disappointed considering it is a new car. It's not like I can drive around pretending that I don't care.

Does anyone else have any comments regarding rattling parts? I know Dynamat is an option but I dont' know if going through all that hassle would eliminate the amount of rattling I hear going on. I cannot drive and listen to music with the subs on knowing I sound like a rattle trap.


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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I've got the JL Audio Stealthbox and mine does the same thing. If you lay down one or both of your rear seats then it'll help alot with the trunk rattle. If you pull the interior light plastic piece off (above the rear view mirror) and pack it with paper towels until it'll bearly snap back on then it'll cure the rattle by your rear view mirror. Mine sounds awesome but like you I am disappointed in how bad everything rattles when it's turned up. I guess it's a trade off unless you wanna spend the time to pinpoint every rattle and address them one at a time. If I know I'm gonna be bumping then I'll just lay down one of the rear seats and it's bearable for me.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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Dynat is your best bet.

Just a side note, its not just Ford that rattles like that. Lots of cars are going to have some rattle or buzz that the bass brings out.

My ex girlfriend's honda had to go in for a full dynamat workover after she installed her audio. The rattles were terrible.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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How about if you turn the volume down would that help?Not everyone want"s to hear the music 5 miles away, or the my new learned word BUMPING or better put TARGET, how do you hear fire trucks or police cars with all that BUMPING going on in and out of your car,bad as the dam texting and cell phones.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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You need to sound deaden the trunk and trunk lid. I have 1000 watts going to a couple JL 10w6's and I have no rattle

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 Coyote View Post
How about if you turn the volume down would that help?Not everyone want"s to hear the music 5 miles away, or the my new learned word BUMPING or better put TARGET, how do you hear fire trucks or police cars with all that BUMPING going on in and out of your car,bad as the dam texting and cell phones.

How about putting yourself on mute and f-king off? You added no input to the thread other than prove you're a jackoff.

Not everybody that has a subwoofer listens to music at full volume so don't be a fuken mr.knowitall you heathen dummy.


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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How about putting yourself on mute and f-king off? You added no input to the thread other than prove you're a jackoff.

Not everybody that has a subwoofer listens to music at full volume so don't be a fuken mr.knowitall you heathen dummy.

Well that escalated quickly

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynobrat View Post
How about putting yourself on mute and f-king off? You added no input to the thread other than prove you're a jackoff.

Not everybody that has a subwoofer listens to music at full volume so don't be a fuken mr.knowitall you heathen dummy.

If that is the way they teach you to write and talk up in Canada I am glad I am from the USA,at least my FREEDOM of speech isn"t FOUL like yours,nuff said.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynobrat View Post
How about putting yourself on mute and f-king off? You added no input to the thread other than prove you're a jackoff.

Not everybody that has a subwoofer listens to music at full volume so don't be a fuken mr.knowitall you heathen dummy.




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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012 Thread Starter
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you guys are all retarded. The guy who posted turning it down is obviously a tool for posting what he did, and you guys are retards for thinking you're better than somebody else and defending him in the process. Get a grip.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 Coyote View Post
How about if you turn the volume down would that help?Not everyone want"s to hear the music 5 miles away, or the my new learned word BUMPING or better put TARGET, how do you hear fire trucks or police cars with all that BUMPING going on in and out of your car,bad as the dam texting and cell phones.
Presumption at it's finest. Maybe some understanding is in order. While there are your adolescents that seem to be empowered by ludicrous amounts of bass in their rides......this is not what's being discussed here. Most music.....whether produced in the 50's or today, cannot be truly appreciated without a subwoofer. For instance the lowest note on a standard bass guitar is 41hz @ standard tuning......most stock audio systems fall on their face long before they get even close (door speakers drop off steeply below 80-90hz).......so I don't fault those that want some impact from their tunes by using a sub. That aside, my car has numerous rattles without a sub running, so I can relate in a sense to the OP and others. Dynamat can help. If you want the most effective and least time/$ consuming do just the decklid and isolate the license plate. I've found the best fix in previous cars I've had systems in is to remove the rear speakers altogether. That will relieve the pressure in the trunk and vent into the cabin for a double benefit......plus IMO it sounds much better to have the soundstage projecting from the front only. OP- ported box or sealed? A ported sub is usually going to move more air around the trunk, thus creating more rattles than a sealed configuration all other components being equal.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012 Thread Starter
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part of why I wanted subs in the back is because I don't like all the sound projecting from the front.

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it's the mirror that rattles not the light above it.

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Quote:
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part of why I wanted subs in the back is because I don't like all the sound projecting from the front.

MVI 0626 - YouTube

it's the mirror that rattles not the light above it.
If you've isolated the rattling...then get to it skippy. I agree, the sub-bass should come from behind the driver.....so it has time to reflect and ramp up some cabin gain before reaching the drivers' ear. You completely missed my point about the soundstage. I wasn't refering to the subs. I meant that by removing the rear speakers, alleviating the pressure (the cause of most of the rattling) inside the trunk by way of the empty holes left, and only having the MID/HIGH stage coming from the front (the speakers in your doors)....it sounds better....IMO.

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mr.knowitall you heathen dummy.
this made me lol

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Quote:
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part of why I wanted subs in the back is because I don't like all the sound projecting from the front.

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it's the mirror that rattles not the light above it.
Lol. That sounds just like my mirror. Sounds like that over bumps too doesn't it?


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