Need Advice for Removing Shaker 500 system out of 2013 Shelby GT500 - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012 Thread Starter
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Need Advice for Removing Shaker 500 system out of 2013 Shelby GT500

Hey guys,

I've had my 2013 GT500 for about a month now and the first thing I want to do is remove the stock Shaker 500 system with the integrated NAV system. I've done a good bit of research in advance on how to approach this and have everything figured out, but I have yet to find an actual wiring diagram of the 2013 door speaker amps. I know the 8" base amp is under the driver kick panel and I plan on removing those subs completely and putting in a component 6.5" woofer and am going to mount my component tweeter in the factory 6x8 location using custom brackets. All of this will run to an aftermarket 5ch amp.

I have three questions I am hoping someone can help with:

#1) Does anyone know what each of the wires do for the 2013 Shaker amp? Are they the same as the 2005+ diagram that was posted on here in the sticky section? I primarly need to know what wires seperate each ch so I can tap into them.

#2) I've heard the factory shaker500 amp that powers the door speakers is located in the trunk area behind the carpet on the driver side, is this correct? I haven't torn into the car yet due to work but figured it might be easier to ask so I can further plan out the wire runs.

#3) I plan on running new speaker wire for my door speakers in the front and rear and hooking them up to a 5ch amp. I am going to splice my JL Audio Cleansweep modules into the 4ch factory amp for the speakers as my line-in sources for the speakers, use a JL signal summing device for a sub ch, and remove the door subs as mentioned above. If I decide to remove all the factory shaker amps will I still retain sync and bluetooth functionality or is there a special harness I need? I've read mixed things on this with the F150 guys but apparently they have an aftermarket Sony system as part of the premium upgrade and it is different. My #1 reasoning with keeping the factory NAV HU is to retain sync/bluetooth.

Thanks in advance for any help, I've found more useful information on these forums than any other Mustang forum yet

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012
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I went with jl audio myself and have to say damn they are good I wrote on here just to tell of my amp jl 500/5 older amp bought on ebay cheap and cant say enough for this setup I did jl c5 all around and jl sub with the jl 500/5 amp it is great and does not hurt the charging system at all. Good luck sounds like you are going to have a system that rocks.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012
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I have the 2011 V6 w/ Shaker500. I replaced my HU with a Pioneer, swapped my fronts for 6.5'' components, and added a 10'' sub in a sealed box. I unplugged the 8'' door woofers and am still using the rear speakers. Im using a 4ch amp for the front components and the rear stock speakers (I just have the gains set accordingly for the rear) and a mono block for the 10' subwoofer.

I ran new 16 gauge speaker wire for the front comps and for the rear speakers too. Getting the wire through the doors is a PITA. I used the AXXESS FRST wiring harness for my new pioneer HU and it retains full steering wheel control and full sync capabilities as well. I also used the Metra 99-5826ch dash adaptor.

With the door subs in it had too much bass up front. The bass from the door woofers was too loud and "boomy". Once I unplugged them and set the monoblock up, it was night and day in the quality of the bass. It was louder, deeper, and cleaner. Plus the doors dont rattle as much. I ended up not using sync at all now. I chose to just unplug the RCA cables from the audio in on the back of the HU. My new HU did everything sync could do, minus voice commands.

Goodluck on your install.

Sent from my LT26i using AutoGuide.Com Free App

2011 Kona Blue MT82 V6 Mustang Pony Package 3:31 Gear Ratio, Interior Upgrade Pkg, Security & Shaker500/Sync
Mods (in order of installed): AM Bama SCT SF3 Tuner w/ 87 Hybrid Tune, Airaid CAI, Hurst Billet Plus 2 Short Throw Shifter, Lethal O/R H Pipe w/ Stock Exhaust, Blacked-Out Tints on Rear Windows, Full Ceramic Tint on Front Windows, Metra Touchscreen Dash Adaptor, Single DIN Head Unit, 6.5'' Component Speakers Fronts, Stock Rear Speakers, 10'' Sealed Subwoofer, 4ch. and 1ch Amplifier. LED licence plate lights, LED interior dome lights, FRPP/Dynamic shocks and struts, SR Performance lowering springs, GT500 Strut Mounts, BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar, BMR LCA's, BMR Relocation Brackets. Rear Seat Delete.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012
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I pulled my trunk carpet and couldnt find an amp for the speakers. I know under the drivers kick panel is the woofers amp. I dont knoe about the wiring diagram as I ran new wires for all the speakers. I disabled the internal amp on my HU so the old wires arent getting any power.

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2011 Kona Blue MT82 V6 Mustang Pony Package 3:31 Gear Ratio, Interior Upgrade Pkg, Security & Shaker500/Sync
Mods (in order of installed): AM Bama SCT SF3 Tuner w/ 87 Hybrid Tune, Airaid CAI, Hurst Billet Plus 2 Short Throw Shifter, Lethal O/R H Pipe w/ Stock Exhaust, Blacked-Out Tints on Rear Windows, Full Ceramic Tint on Front Windows, Metra Touchscreen Dash Adaptor, Single DIN Head Unit, 6.5'' Component Speakers Fronts, Stock Rear Speakers, 10'' Sealed Subwoofer, 4ch. and 1ch Amplifier. LED licence plate lights, LED interior dome lights, FRPP/Dynamic shocks and struts, SR Performance lowering springs, GT500 Strut Mounts, BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar, BMR LCA's, BMR Relocation Brackets. Rear Seat Delete.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012
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Search the forums for a Mustang Service Manual... you can find the root menu of it & input your year Mustang. From there just locate the correct section. I found the 2011+ section by accident, went back to get wiring diagram (colors & all) for my year 'Stang (2006). gOOD LUCK!

SEARCHING FOR A NEW MUSTANG!!!!!!

Last Mustang - 2012 Kona Blue/Stone Top-Interior V6/AT convertible. Panavise Phone Mount.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rancid View Post
Hey guys,

I've had my 2013 GT500 for about a month now and the first thing I want to do is remove the stock Shaker 500 system with the integrated NAV system. I've done a good bit of research in advance on how to approach this and have everything figured out, but I have yet to find an actual wiring diagram of the 2013 door speaker amps. I know the 8" base amp is under the driver kick panel and I plan on removing those subs completely and putting in a component 6.5" woofer and am going to mount my component tweeter in the factory 6x8 location using custom brackets. All of this will run to an aftermarket 5ch amp.

I have three questions I am hoping someone can help with:

#1) Does anyone know what each of the wires do for the 2013 Shaker amp? Are they the same as the 2005+ diagram that was posted on here in the sticky section? I primarly need to know what wires seperate each ch so I can tap into them.

#2) I've heard the factory shaker500 amp that powers the door speakers is located in the trunk area behind the carpet on the driver side, is this correct? I haven't torn into the car yet due to work but figured it might be easier to ask so I can further plan out the wire runs.

#3) I plan on running new speaker wire for my door speakers in the front and rear and hooking them up to a 5ch amp. I am going to splice my JL Audio Cleansweep modules into the 4ch factory amp for the speakers as my line-in sources for the speakers, use a JL signal summing device for a sub ch, and remove the door subs as mentioned above. If I decide to remove all the factory shaker amps will I still retain sync and bluetooth functionality or is there a special harness I need? I've read mixed things on this with the F150 guys but apparently they have an aftermarket Sony system as part of the premium upgrade and it is different. My #1 reasoning with keeping the factory NAV HU is to retain sync/bluetooth.

Thanks in advance for any help, I've found more useful information on these forums than any other Mustang forum yet
We have been battling the 2013 Shelby GT500 stereo install for over a week now, and still having problems with the JL SSI & Cleansweep. Answers to your questions:
1) We ran new wires to the crossovers thru the kick panel to the doors to signal the CS5 component system mid & mid bass, used the factory wire for the tweeter. You may want to run all new wires to avoid using & searching for the factory ones, and then battling polarity issues.
2) Factory Amp is located on left side driver's kick panel above open hood pull handle, there is no other factory amp located in the rear nor anywhere else.
3) You have to remove the DOORS completely to run new wires as the new rollock connectors & grommets do not allow any pass thru area. Make sure you have a friend help you to remove the doors, its not that difficult, but makes the install just that more difficult.

So far we've spent about 4 days on this system, ended up taking it to a Pro. He fixed everything got the CS to calibrate and tuned the system. After I left his house and turned the system off, then on again, lost all signals, and I was cussing up a storm. We believe we have the power wired wrong, so thats our next thing to look at. Otherwise BE PREPARED to go thru hell. The system is all JL Audio C5 component system, 5x7 C2's in the rear, and custom JL stealth box SUB in the back.

I am at the point of uninstalling the entire system and going back to CRAP stock amp/speaker system unless we can figure something out this coming week. Shame on Ford for putting such crappy cheap chinese speakers in a $65000 car. The only nice thing I like is the head unit. When you turn it on, a cool looking COBRA appears on the screen to greet you. Otherwise I would have trashed the head unit too and installed my own deck (screw the cleansweep & SSI)

13 Shelby GT500 - SVT Perf Pak - SVT Trak Pak - Electronics Pkg w/NAV - Leather Recaros - JL Audio Stereo Upgrade
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012
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Stereo advice

How are you using the remote turn on signal with the amp? Are you using a JL amp with auto signal sense? If so make sure it is activated if you are using the high level inputs. I had this problem with my challenger until I switched to high level and activated auto signal sense.

On the flip side. I have a 2013 BOSS and am looking to make mine sound a little better as well. I am wanting to install all of the shaker system. I have new door panel with the 8" mounting but am having trouble locating the part number of the factory amp and if the wiring is already in the car. Some pictures of the factory amp would be great. In a few more days I will have a 2013 Ford service manual DVD in my hands if you need any wiring info.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobracoop View Post
How are you using the remote turn on signal with the amp? Are you using a JL amp with auto signal sense? If so make sure it is activated if you are using the high level inputs. I had this problem with my challenger until I switched to high level and activated auto signal sense.

On the flip side. I have a 2013 BOSS and am looking to make mine sound a little better as well. I am wanting to install all of the shaker system. I have new door panel with the 8" mounting but am having trouble locating the part number of the factory amp and if the wiring is already in the car. Some pictures of the factory amp would be great. In a few more days I will have a 2013 Ford service manual DVD in my hands if you need any wiring info.
Did you ever receive the service manual. if so would you be able to provide the wiring diagram for stereo? I am trying to install the shaker 1000 from my 2012 GT into my 2014 and ford has changed the wiring. The 8 pin connector on the back of the head unit for the sub amps now only has one wire for the mute of the door sub amp. I had tapped the shaker 1000 I bought on ebay into the + and - feed to the front door subs and now I don't know how ford has is wired.

Thanks for any help, Tom
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