Okay, im looking to setup two 12" subs in the back of my 2005 mustang gt. I know very little about car audio in general. My questions are this: Are these subs and amp compatible? CompVR | KICKER and Kicker 11DX300.2 2-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 2 at Crutchfield.com if these arent compatible or isnt the best setup with the subs please tell me what would be. feel free to give me some schooling on why or why not these are compatible. thanks, tyson.
Those 12s unfortunately won't work with that amp. Those subs need 400 watts rms @ 1/2/4/8 ohms (depends which variation you purchase). That amp only puts out 300 watts @ 4 ohms. It might work ok, but if you turn it up loud it could overwork your amplifier.
You can call Crutchfield for more support. Also, try sonicelectronix too. They have some amazing prices sometimes. Same with woofersetc.
Nice rule of thumb when amplifier shopping is to get something with around 15-20% more power than the subs or speakers call for. That way your amplifier always stays more efficient and cooler.
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thanks guys, ive been doing a little reading and im starting to understand it some more. i just dont want to go into the shop and have them talk me into something i dont need or want because im uneducated about subs and amps.
I'd look for a good monoblock starting at least at 500W @ 2 Ohms. If those speakers can be wired for and handle 1 Ohm then a 1 Ohm capable amp. Alpine makes some really great amps imho. But I don't really know your budget. Are you doing all the wiring yourself or having someone else do it. Stereos aren't too complicated.
Okay, i do have an upgraded headunit i wanted to do that before anything. its the pioneer ddx419. i have blown the stock door subs and i was looking at these Kicker Audio 8 Inch Woofers for replacements. i just want some loud bass (i am in high school btw :gringreen) not really looking for anything else, although i may put some shelby/kicker 6x8 speakers in just because i will be replacing the door subs. i might as well while im inside the door. my budget is hard to say right but i would guestimate around $800 for the budget. i guess i could wire it myself, may take some time and learning but im up for the challenge.
You have a headunit which is good. Honestly, the part that takes the longest during install is taking the car apart. I mapped my whole setup on paper. Drew a basic blueprint of where the wires would go and everything. Just makes install and budgeting way easier...atleast for me haha.
I would say $800 could get you some decent stuff! If your all about bass then I would probably recomend saving that 149 on shelby replacements. They are good if your running the shaker500 with no sub, but your two 12's are going to drown them out. I had the shaker500 and I disabled my factory 8's when I added my sub. Quality of bass was better from my new 10" anyhow.
The gain has to be set right since its got 1200 rms at 1 ohm. And you only need 800. You could get higher power subs. But $155 + $238 = $393. You just need a box, a sub wiring kit, a set of RCAs..and I think your done (accessories can get expensive so watch out). You can buy some new 6x8 fronts instead of the shelby sub replacements now.
Do some shopping around too. I was just trying to work with the kicker subs you originally wanted. They will pound though. Almost any double 12" sub combo pushes a lot of air. PW_Pony can attest to that! Im not a complete expert so correct me if ive missed anything.
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ive been looking at this box for awhile now since its mustang specific Custom Sub Enclosure | Affordable Sub Box . so after your post, im looking at the amp you gave the link to, the 2 kicker 12" subs, the box i listed above, and then some other things like wiring kits and "RCAs" which im assuming is a cable(s), i googled it. now, for wiring down the subs to 1 ohm i understand how to (i attached a picture of the wiring diagram so correct me if its the wrong thing.) im shopping around for amps and im guessing since the combined watts for the subs is 800 a good mono amp for these subs would give around 900-1000 watts? also is a capacitor a necessity? i am a total rookie and i have no experience wiring at all so bear with me, thanks for the help you guys have already gave me.
The MB Quart amp looks to be closer to spec for what you need. 1000 watts x 1 @ 1ohm.
Basically the ratings on the amps for 4 ohm, 2 ohm, and 1 ohm are just telling you what your subs will get if they are wired at 4 ohm, 2 ohm , or 1 ohm.
Example, the RE Audio amp you have there lists 1000 watts at 2 ohms and 1400 watts at 1 ohm. If you have your subwoofers wired at 1 ohm and hook then up to the amp, they will get 1400 watts because they only have 1 ohm resistance. If you had the subs wired for 2 ohms, then that amp would send them 1000 watts like it says.
Its all in how you wire your subs. Configure it to the ohms resistance you can first. Then find an amp that can give you the power you need at that ohm resistance.
Most subs are single voice coil. But those CompVRs are dual voice coil. So when you look at their wiring diagrams they have more wiring options. Dual voice coil is pretty cool cause it gives you so much more flexibility for choosing amps.
As for capacitors, you should be ok. They look cool though. Ive read on some forums that they dont do much. Im running about 800 watts rms as well off my 2011. I have no electrical upgrades like capacitors, isolators, big 3 etc. And ive been fine.
Snoop around some car audio forums too. They have lots of stickies tabs on "how to's" that are a great read prior to install. This was the first time I have actually installed a car stereo system. I was a bit nervous, but its really not all that bad. Just read and watch some youtube clips. Like power wire runs down the opposite side of your car than your remote turn on wire, where to bolt the ground wire, etc. I didnt know all the fundamental do's and don'ts of car audio either. I had no clue about voice coils or anything. My setups in high school I had my parents pay a shop lol. You can always take that route as well, but I kinda like doing my own mods now.
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alright, sounds good. ill probably go with the mb quart. ill just do install myself, how hard can it be? in the next few weeks, ill start ordering the stuff after my stang gets back from the shop. :kooky: Thanks for the help, both of yall.
Your welcome, sorry I was MIA. But it looks like your questions were answered. Installation won't be difficult. I know it seems like a big task but grab a buddy to help. Being your first time, I'd set aside a full day. Then you can look back and be proud you did that yourself and didn't have to pay anyone
Forgive me, I've been out of the audio game for a good while now. So many new brands etc these days. Lol.
The only thing I don't like about that kit is the speaker wire. I think it comes with 16 gauge wire. 12 or even 10 would be much better.
You might even look at the 2 gauge kits. That would give you some room to play should you decide to go bigger and better down the road. However, the 4 gauge should be sufficient because I doubt you'll have that amp cranked all the way up.
I believe I used this one for my amp install. It does include 16 gauge speaker wires. I used them for my front speaker install with my amp. But the wires would be useless to you. It was super quality kit though. I think the shops that did my installs in HS used Stinger or Kicker wiring kits. NVX XAPK4 100% Copper 4 Gauge Car Amp Wire Kit with Speaker Cable
Basically, all you need is a 4 gauge wire kit or a 0-2 gauge kit if that amp will accept that large of a wire (0-2 gauge would be overkill though honestly for your setup). That MB Quart amp only needs 4 gauge. EDIT: 2 gauge power and ground wire is great if you think you might use a larger amp in the future. The lower gauge wire is thicker and can take more power through it for large power amps.
For your subs you can use 10 gauge or 12 gauge speaker wire from the amp to the custom box. A set of RCA's as well from the head unit to the amplifier. 12-16ft should be enough, but you can measure to check.
You don't have to go super overboard on these accessories though. They can really add up. 80 bucks + 30 bucks + 30 bucks etc. So just be careful. Don't go for the cheapest crap, because most likely their 4 gauge kit might be really thin wire that's like 8 gauge. Treat it kind of like Home Theater cables. $190 HDMI cables are great for peace of mind and performance ability, but not always necessary. If you have the money feel free to use 'em though :bigthumbsup
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