Looking to Upgrade the Sound System - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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It all depends how much money you want to drop into sound.

For a really affordable upgrade that is the best bang for buck - Get a set of 4 new speakers.

If you are wanting some low end, a 10 or 12 inch sub, amp and a low level line converter is needed to give you the bass, but speaker replacement is definitely needed.

If you are looking to spend $1000 or more, only then would I suggest even considering to replace the stereo head unit. It is a very good quality unit, compared to even a few years ago where replacing the head unit would get you the best bang for buck. This is not the case with the 2011+'s. In fact, the speakers they provide are so crap, I would suggest almost throwing them away.


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I have a 2011 V6 Ford Mustang with a Shaker 500 and Navigation system. I previously upgraded the speakers in the doors and the rear deck with 4 Infinity REF 8602cfx's. I decided to keep the head unit, but I also installed a Sony XM GS400 amp to provide more power to the door and rear deck speakers. I thought about wiring in a sub, but Iím a bit too old for a car with a booming bass. I installed the amp by using the PAC AOEM FRD24 harness. I used the PAC harness to convert the head unitís high level outputs to a line level signal source. This signal was then feed to the amp's inputs. I spliced into the PAC harness wires instead of cutting into my Stangís wiring harness.

The biggest PITA for me was getting the connectors out of the back of the head unit. The head unit connectors have to be removed because the PAC harness is installed between the car's harness and the head unit. Once I was able to get the connectors out, everything else was a breeze.

Every available function with the Shaker 500 and the NAV system worked perfectly. The audio system sounds great now.

While the speakers in the Mustang TRULY SUCK (I threw the old speakers in the garbage where they belonged), I mostly upgraded the sound system because Iím retired and need to get a life.


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Thumbs up AudioControl L6i

I have 2012 GT base model. I have changed the front and rear speakers. Look into the AudioControl L6i, paid $113 on Amazon. It connects to the speaker output from the HU and converts to a 9.6 volts output via three sets of RCA connectors. The third set can be used for a subwoofer. A higher line output gives the amp a cleaner signal and your amp is more efficient. I have installed this unit and I can tell a big difference.
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Here was my solution to the crappy sound system (4 speaker, non-Shaker) in a '13 base model V6 with Sync:

- Stock HU; $0, made by decent manufacturer (sounds that way, at least)
- Kenwood KAC-7005 5 channel amp 40W RMS x 4; 300W RMS x 1
- x 4 Kicker KS-68 2-60W RMS 6x8 speakers
- x 1 10" Pioneer sub TS-SW2501S4, 300W RMS continuous, 20hz lows
- KnuKoncepts 4 gauge amp kit
- Custom sub box for '11-'14 Pony cars, goes on right side of trunk
- x 2 Fosgate 16' RCA cables
- x 2 RCA line-out converters
- 25 sq ft of HVAC butyl rubber/aluminum self-adhesive insulation (just like name brand stuff except much cheaper)

I've only installed the front two speakers since those were easy, and I'm waiting on having enough time to do the rest. I figure this will be a decent system at reasonable cost that avoids my being forced to buy over-priced, off-brand equipment at an audio install place that wouldn't match specs like I wanted (not looking to blow up the block). Plus, I can do the install with much more care and attention to detail than anywhere else.


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I am still running head unit, with infinity components in front and rear no amp, in trunk I am running a hi pass filter from the rear signals onto a Rockford Fosgate punch 300.1 amp into a pair of JL Audio 10" subs, sealed enclosure.

Head unit will do what you want, but replacing it would be optimum for the eq features alone. I did not find our head unit to be all that bad. But speakers do make a world of difference and a sub.
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The stock head unit works fine

I have a 2012 PP with the absolute base stereo (no 8 inch subs in the doors). I wanted it that way - those subs just aren't that great, are difficult to replace and I don't like the look of those huge chrome rings.

Anyway, here's what I did (with great results).

I took a pair of old MB Quart separates I had laying around and mounted them in a pair of adapter plates I made (the material cost less than $3 at Home Depot):
Then, for the low end, I took an AudioControl LC2i line level converter and completely disconnected the rear speakers (I prefer the sound stage to be in front of me anyway), and supplied it to an old Kenwood Pro Series amp (PS-150) I had, set the low pass filter to about 90Hz and hooked it up to an MTX Thunder 8000 12" sub in a box I built to tuck into the corner in the trunk:


At first, there just wasn't enough midrange (it was all highs and only deep bass), so I took the door panels back off and added some "Wirez" sound deadening (self adhesive stuff) to the metal around the speaker mounts and some small pieces to any large flat sections of sheet metal on the inner panel (I didn't remove the plastic vapour barrier).

After that, the door speakers picked up the mid range just fine and meet up with the sub perfectly.

Now, it rocks - I'd put it up against the Shaker 1000 system any day, it looks bone stock (so as not to tempt potential thieves) and, since I already had most of the equipment, it all cost me less than $200.

So yes, you can keep the stock head unit. Aftermarket ones are nice (and can add quite a bit of connectivity options), but the stock one sounds fine, and with the Auxiliary input, it can play anything you plug into it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trashysquid View Post
Here was my solution to the crappy sound system (4 speaker, non-Shaker) in a '13 base model V6 with Sync:

- Stock HU; $0, made by decent manufacturer (sounds that way, at least)
- Kenwood KAC-7005 5 channel amp 40W RMS x 4; 300W RMS x 1
- x 4 Kicker KS-68 2-60W RMS 6x8 speakers
- x 1 10" Pioneer sub TS-SW2501S4, 300W RMS continuous, 20hz lows
- KnuKoncepts 4 gauge amp kit
- Custom sub box for '11-'14 Pony cars, goes on right side of trunk
- x 2 Fosgate 16' RCA cables
- x 2 RCA line-out converters
- 25 sq ft of HVAC butyl rubber/aluminum self-adhesive insulation (just like name brand stuff except much cheaper)

I've only installed the front two speakers since those were easy, and I'm waiting on having enough time to do the rest. I figure this will be a decent system at reasonable cost that avoids my being forced to buy over-priced, off-brand equipment at an audio install place that wouldn't match specs like I wanted (not looking to blow up the block). Plus, I can do the install with much more care and attention to detail than anywhere else.


Sent by the Trashiest Squid since 1993.
Installed yesterday and this setup is plenty for anyone not trying to blow up the block. Music range is great, especially the highs, and the Pioneer sub is great. However, I did have to make the opening in the sub box bigger because that sub was a bit larger than most 10" subs. A Dremmel tool made quick work of the MDF, though. Also, be sure to use Dynamat or an equivalent...if you don't, you most certainly will get vibration in the read deck area.


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I installed Polk DB571's today, a definite upgrade but need a single 8 or 10 for sure, but I need my trunk space. I'm not sure what to do about it, maybe a basslink?

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I thought about a basslink or some other kind of all-in-one bass solution, but the cost was comparable to separates (box, woofer and mono-amp). And if the unit were to have an issue, the whole unit is done...but they do save space.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS3to302 View Post
I installed Polk DB571's today, a definite upgrade but need a single 8 or 10 for sure, but I need my trunk space. I'm not sure what to do about it, maybe a basslink?
I put two 10" Subs in my convertible trunk with plenty of space leftover:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by joihan777 View Post
I put two 10" Subs in my convertible trunk with plenty of space leftover:
Where's the amp?


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I need all that space that your box takes up to hold crates of work files.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS3to302 View Post
I installed Polk DB571's today, a definite upgrade but need a single 8 or 10 for sure, but I need my trunk space. I'm not sure what to do about it, maybe a basslink?
with the Bazooka 10", I put it directly behind the rear seats, still have a lot(most) of trunk space

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Quote:
Originally Posted by StangFan25 View Post
Where's the amp?
Not installed yet. It goes in when I get a few hours to myself!

Here's the same box, with amp installed, on my '06 vert:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS3to302 View Post
I need all that space that your box takes up to hold crates of work files.
Ooof.. sorry to hear that. Perhaps a sub-woofer mounted to the rear deck in an infinite baffle design?

Also, I know one guy here on the forums removed his spare and mounted a 12" in the well. Not my cup of tea, but it may be a solution for ya! Good luck!


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