Looking to Upgrade the Sound System - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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What is this strange word, spare ?


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What is this strange word, spare ?

Hahahahahahahaha! Good one.



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I used to put JL W-7's in people's spare tire well quite often when I was running my car audio shop. The JL stuff is some of the best out on the market and the W7 is an amazing speaker. A single w7 would keep up with most people's dual 10" rig... Down side is price and availability. A w7 alone is 300+ then the amp, box, cable, and instal... Your looking at between $750-$1K to get it done properly.

A second option is a pre manufactured custom fit box. They can be a bit pricey and don't always live up to the price tag so try to hear them before buying... On the up side, they take up very little space and look like a factory option

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Slight OT...

RebelTX what do you think of the Kenwood 8405 amp (4x60) to drive Polk db471, or equivalent Boston's ? I already have these speakers in (BAs in doors , polks in rear) but have been looking for a good, clean more or less entry level amp. I don't care about blowing the doors of or thumping. Just a little more punch and clarity. This is with a Shaker 500

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The stock head unit puts out good signals.I would just add subs using a line out converter.

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Slight OT...

RebelTX what do you think of the Kenwood 8405 amp (4x60) to drive Polk db471, or equivalent Boston's ? I already have these speakers in (BAs in doors , polks in rear) but have been looking for a good, clean more or less entry level amp. I don't care about blowing the doors of or thumping. Just a little more punch and clarity. This is with a Shaker 500
I'm thinking you meant Polk DB571's... If so then yea, that amp would be an excellent choice. For the Boston acoustics if you running something like the SC65 you will be good. Maybe fade your output to the rear a touch if you listen to it loud. Just because the SC65 is rated at 50watts at 4 ohm and the amp puts out 60 watts.

I'm not sure what kind of power the factory unit puts out. Might want to check before buying just to see if this is worth it.


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I'm thinking you meant Polk DB571's... If so then yea, that amp would be an excellent choice. For the Boston acoustics if you running something like the SC65 you will be good. Maybe fade your output to the rear a touch if you listen to it loud. Just because the SC65 is rated at 50watts at 4 ohm and the amp puts out 60 watts.

I'm not sure what kind of power the factory unit puts out. Might want to check before buying just to see if this is worth it.


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Yeah I fat fingered the ipad. Db571. Boston's are SE85. I also am considering going a little higher end with a Rockford P500X4D amp...4x75 which is right on spec to the speakers.

If you don't mind, see my thread on the 2011+ Talk board https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...interface.html

Thanks!

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Thank you for all of the replies so far! I've been doing some research and I think I'm just going to keep the Factory Head Unit and ass the subwoofer and amp. From reading online I've found out that the factory head unit doesn't have a preamp output so I'll have to buy this as well,

Scosche LOC80 2-channel line output converter at Crutchfield.com

Can anyone confirm if I'm correct?
I used this exact Scosche LOC on my old BMW audio install. Luckily, the BMW had speaker-level wiring in the trunk, which I spliced into. Here's a few shots of the process. It's not hard if you plan accordingly, and read thrice, cut once!

Locating the correct wires, then removing wrap and taping the bundles together before cutting...


Two pairs to cut, one already done...


Spliced LOC in with "Y" crimping and taping...


Secured LOC on wiring loom and out of the way. Ready to use!


In all honesty, it worked pretty well. I wired it up to a RF Prime 500.1 amp and an Alpine 12" Type R (wired in 2ohm) and it hit really hard. The LOC is a great option, just make sure you make your connections SOLID. I'd recommend soldering AND crimping, then excessive taping.

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Installed yesterday and this setup is plenty for anyone not trying to blow up the block. Music range is great, especially the highs, and the Pioneer sub is great. However, I did have to make the opening in the sub box bigger because that sub was a bit larger than most 10" subs. A Dremmel tool made quick work of the MDF, though. Also, be sure to use Dynamat or an equivalent...if you don't, you most certainly will get vibration in the read deck area.


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Quick update to this post. I ended up installing a 4 channel ground loop isolator to quell some slight engine whine/feedback that I was hearing. Found one on eBay for like $15 or so, and ran the front/rear speaker RCA lines into it. The only other thing left that I have to figure out is how to stop the popping noise that comes from the speakers when I turn the car off. From what I gather, that popping noise happens because the head unit turns off faster than the amplifier does. Any suggestions?

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your amp is probably turning off with the car but it takes a second for the capacitors to drain. so like you said, the radio turns off and that little bit of power left over in the amp is what causes the pop.

Easy fix is to instal a switch to turn the amp off manually. Then just turn the amp off before the car. But that can be a pain

Option 2.... What is your amp wired into for its "remote" on/off? If it is the radio then try to find a system that would only be on if the car were running. The radio will stay on till you open the door so if the amp kills as soon as you turn the key off then you might have enough time between then and the door opening to eliminate the pop.

Last option is what I did when I did lots of car audio. I built a little box that consisted of audio input(s), audio output(s) and a 12V power ground. 12V power was supplied from the same source as remote on/off for the amp. The 12V power was used to activate a relay in the box. When the relay was active (closed), audio was allowed to pass through the box. However, when the car is turned off (and thus the amp) the relays open very quickly and prevent any signal from passing to your speakers. This is what I did to eliminate pops in the past and had great results. There may be something that you could buy now days but when I did this for a living about 5 years back that was how we did it.


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The only other thing left that I have to figure out is how to stop the popping noise that comes from the speakers when I turn the car off. From what I gather, that popping noise happens because the head unit turns off faster than the amplifier does. Any suggestions?
I had a very slight pop when I turned the stereo off. Now I turn the volume down before turning off the stereo, problem solved.


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I got the kenwood 8405 at rebelTXs recommendation. I am using speaker level inputs and get no pop. Very happy with it though it could be a tad more powerful. I think I will eventually add a sealed sub.

As an aside, I've been rolling speakers a bit. I decided I do not like the Polk db571s - I find them to have too little definition in the upper mids. I moved my boston SE85s to the rear and installed Boston SC85s up front. Nice and clear. I also used duct seal covered with aluminum tape to dampen and seal. I packed it into the front plastic mounts and on both sides of the rear deck, about 1/2lb on each speaker. It definitely enhances the sound and tightens up the speaker response. It's a great $12 improvement

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I also used duct seal covered with aluminum tape to dampen and seal. I packed it into the front plastic mounts and on both sides of the rear deck, about 1/2lb on each speaker. It definitely enhances the sound and tightens up the speaker response. It's a great $12 improvement
Pics would be helpful

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While in the body shop to repair hail damage, I had the tech install two pairs of Infinity Reference 6832cf speakers front and back. What a HUGE difference these made over the junk stock speakers. He wouldn't take any money for the install but he did ask for a case of bottled water which I got him. By the way he did a jam up job on the body work.

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That's a good mechanic rite there.


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