Aftermarket Amped Door Subwoofers Creates Awful Rattle - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014 Thread Starter
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Aftermarket Amped Door Subwoofers Creates Awful Rattle

Since this is my first post I thought I would start off by saying thankyou to everyone on here because even though this is my first post, I have used these forums for quite some time and usually found all the info I've needed.

So anyway now to my problem. This is my second mustang and both my first 10' V6 and now 12' GT had the shaker 500 in them. Neither one had any sort of unbearable rattles to me but once I got my 5.0 I decided I wanted more out of the stereo so I started by replacing all the speakers with kicker 5x7s. Then moved on to get shelby kicker replacement subs and as others have mentioned on this forum there not really anything special without an aftermarket amp, so thats what I just got finished doing about a week ago. I used a line out converter and added an amp to give the subs right under 200 watts each. Now the doors rattle a ridiculous amount, specifically right under the grab handle inside the cubby I believe, and I have tried almost everything to fix it. First I took the doors off to try and find the source of the rattle and didn't come up with much, especially after taking the "sub box" (from what research I've done the air tube running the length of the door at the bottom is I guess you would call a makeshift sub box) apart and trying to locate what the door is vibration against with no luck. So I went ahead and got the dynamat door kit and used about 5 sq feet on the inside of sub box, and on the outside of the door then apoxied the sub box back together with plastic weld. All of this seemed to help maybe just a tad but still unbearable, now I've tried shoving old rolled up t shirts in the cubbys as I read someone did but still nothing. The last thing I can think to do is take the door back apart split the sub box again and glue a perfectly cut piece of MDF wood or something similar in to brace it.

I would just like to know if anybody has any ideas or has amped the aftermarket kicker subs as well and done something I'm not thinking about. Not saying anyone will, but I don't want to hear anybody say just take the subs out and put the old stocks back in or something similar. When you just try to ignore the awful vibrations it actually sounds really good so changing anything isn't an option for me.

Thanks in advance!


Last edited by Striker21; 02-12-2014 at 12:07 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014
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honestly, i took them out when i did my system. i dont think that subs (especially amped) should be in doors. just too easy to rattle and cause annoying issues. in the trunk is best. i did new 5x7 door and deck speakers with a 4 channel and and self-powered 10" sub in the trunk. there is just no way to have a flimsy ford door not rattle with good amped subs.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014
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I agree with enjracing, Trunk only.


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjracing View Post
honestly, i took them out when i did my system. i dont think that subs (especially amped) should be in doors. just too easy to rattle and cause annoying issues. in the trunk is best. i did new 5x7 door and deck speakers with a 4 channel and and self-powered 10" sub in the trunk. there is just no way to have a flimsy ford door not rattle with good amped subs.
I do eventually plan to add a powered 12" in the trunk just don't have the money right now. I also planned on getting a kenwood nav unit to replace the shaker along with a four channel for the speakers. Starting to think I dreamed a bit too big for all the plastics in the car. So once I get the the trunk sub, which will be my next step, I'll turn the gain down on the door subs and for now If anyone has any suggestions on the door rattle go ahead and please let me know. I plan on ripping them apart yet again this weekend to try and pinpoint the exact source.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014
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Couple of things you should take into account, the doors are quite long, front to back, so the likelihood of bass vibration is very real.
Find some stiff 2" diameter cardboard tubing, cut it down to fit right at the point of where the woofer installs, make sure it will not interfere with any moving parts; window glass, and lifting mechanisms.
If you find a spot or two close to this area that will not interfere, use epoxy glue on both sides of the tube (s) and reinforce the inner and outer panels in this manner.
Do a bit of test fitting before moving on to gluing the tubing in place, and once glued, allow ample time for the epoxy to fully cure.
Enclosing the sub with any material to create a "box effect" will increase resonance (the aspect of deep bass vibration) Woofers, by design, move a large amount of "air" enclosing is only going to add deeper resonance...
If you have built some sort of enclosure surrounding the woofers, make SURE you have also allowed an escape route for this air mass through a sound tube ( a tube that allows this enclosed air to be pushed out freely as the woofer operates.
Most home quality speaker enclosures come with sound tubes installed in the back, if you place your hand at the back of these sound tubes while the speaker is operating, you will notice a HUGE amount of "air" being pushed out...
You also have to take a closer look at the interior door design, and see what is causing this unwanted bass vibration.
One way to do this is to create a CD recording of just bass at a sustained note, then continue recording at lower/higher frequencies... forget about mids and highs, those are frequencies that usually do not cause vibrations...then you can load this CD and play it with the woofer hooked up and feel/look where the vibration is being caused.
For comparison, I left my door woofers factory speakers, ( shaker 500) did not upgrade them, and used Dynamat inside the door panels, I upgraded all 5X7's throughout the car, front and back...got an amp in the wheel well powering a 10" Cerwin Vega woofer in a removable enclosure, with dual air mass tubes built into the enclosure for bass escapement, ZERO distortion OR vibration.
My entire upgraded sound system was done by a close friend of mine that is the head installer for Best Buy here in Toronto... sounds far superior to the stock system that came with the car.
Hope some of these suggestions help you somewhat.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-14-2014
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That "sound chamber" is probably way too small for any subwoofer...you may have better luck with a decent set of Midbass woofers, even if you manage to stop the "rattles" you'll probably have major cancellation issues, I'm learning all this the hard way myself...


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-16-2014
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mine rattled a bit. i have the kicker subs and alpine s speakers. i went back to look in there and realized the extra wiring for the subs that was not used and the extensions for the speakers were loose and just moving around all over.. it doesnt rattle any more unless i have something in the door side pocket. which makes me leave it empty now

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014
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I painted three 2"(?) PVC pipes with plastidip and nudged them in map pockets for extra support. I used sticky rubber pads to prevent scratching the door. This eliminated rattle coming from the door but it then allowed me to hear rattles from everything else.

A good test to see if this will work for you us to pull or push on the map pockets while music is playing. If it stops, go forward with adding support to the map pockets. If not, look elsewhere such as the control panel for the windows. I had to add a bunch of double sided tape to mine.

The interior is super cheap, you'll never stop them all.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-18-2014 Thread Starter
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Sorry for the late update. But I have fixed it, the rattles at least.

Like I said before I went ahead and got the dynamat door kit and at first didn't think it would work after doing just one layer on the passenger door. Keep in mind this is the door I have been working with and had maybe slightly more rattles then the driver. So after dynamat and a rolled up shirt tightly placed in the map pocket didn't work I decided to get a sheet of fabric/carpet like stuff and cut it to place in the door as well just to give it an extra layer. That didn't end up working, just to hard to cut perfectly and get placed right. So I also tried porting the sub enclosure like candyredcs suggested, and I really thought this idea would work as I thought the air inside the enclosure was just being pressured too much by the sub. But that does not work, DO NOT TRY AND PORT THE SUB ENCLOSURE, it just allows the sub to vibrate more plus the tight bass you get by keeping it sealed sounds so good!

Now I am having problems getting the enclosure on the passenger door back attached and sealed to the door. As I said originally I split just to see if something inside was vibrating. It's not, here I go again DO NOT SPLIT THE SUB ENCLOSURE, whatever ford used to seal it is the real deal. I have tried everything up to 3m semi rigid plastic repair to put it back together which cost a little more than $100 for the gun and everything you need to use it. It didn't not work and now the door is at a body shop being repaired.

Now on to what worked to fix the vibrations, first of all the main thing is just a lot of dynamat. I have 3 layers on the outside of the sub enclosure, and then at least two layers all around it and one on other parts of the door. The stuff is expensive but to me it's totally worth it. I'm probably going to get about 30 more sq feet on eBay, it's pretty cheap there (more than half price compared to places like best buy or crutchfield), to do the rest of my passenger door and trunk and wherever else. I also got about 3 feet of Velcro and used just the soft part of it to do things like the window control panel and I even unscrewed the door handle from the back of the door and velcroed it along with the back of the ambient light module. Now I'm not sure that was 100% necessary as it required breaking part of the door handle assembly to get it out, so if you think your handle is vibrating take caution when going to take it out. Now the last part is I took some stiff foam I found at lowes and used carpet tape to adhere 4 layers ( about 1/2"-3/4" wide) on the backside of the sub enclosure to brace it as best I could. I also still used the t shirt in the map pocket to remove those last tiny rattles.

When all said and done I am very happy with it especially considering my new amp gives these subs right at about 180 watts which is 6 times more than the stock amp provided. If anybody has any questions on how I did certain things please feel free to ask. I will be uploading pictures soon of my project.
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