Install / upgrading 2007 GT with dual (962 & 342 watt) amplifiers using two 8ga kits? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Install / upgrading 2007 GT with dual (962 & 342 watt) amplifiers using two 8ga kits?

I have finally gathered together what I hope to be a near perfect upgrade to my 2007 Mustang GT's audio system. I have read other posts concerning wire gauge and its size necessity once you near 1500 watts rms, after of course having bought two 8ga Kicker DCK8 complete install kits. The amplifiers are both new Kicker ZX700.5 (class A/B-D ) and CK300.4 (class D) putting out 962 watts and 362 watts rms according to their birth certificates.
The ZX700.5 will be pushing 70 rms each to four Kicker- CS68 6" x 8" Coaxial Speaker @4ohms, as well as close to 150 watts each to two KA-8-WOOFER Shelby Kicker 8", which according to the technicians at Kicker, are long throw 200 watt single voice coil @ 2ohm, which when wired parallel creates a 4 ohm load I believe.
The CK300.4 will be bridged to run 150 rms to a Kicker TCompS 40TCWS104 10" 600W Loaded Subwoofer Box w/ 300 rms. I'll still have two left over channels.
Now the million dollar question, should I use the two 8ga Kicker DCK wire kits, or buy a ZCK44 4-Gauge Install Kit?
I'm still using the Shaker 500 for now, and being that there is only going to be 4 RCA jacks gained with the PAC AOEM-FRD24 Radio Amplifier Integration Interface Adapter, with use, will it create a problem with the radios control (fade, L/R, and Menu) or does the adapter still allow all the Shaker 500 controls to be used?
This is my 1st large install, I'm hoping if someone has experienced something along these lines and has something to share, any info would be appreciated...

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-30-2014
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I initially installed a 4 channel amp using an 8ga kit. it didnt take long before i decided to add a sub and monoblock amp. i ended up removing the 8ga and running a 4ga NXG kit from Sonic.

It will be much easier to manage a single 4 ga run than 2 8s. Just make sure you fuse properly.

As far as wiring, take a look at the PAC FRD24 harness.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCA2011 View Post
I initially installed a 4 channel amp using an 8ga kit. it didnt take long before i decided to add a sub and monoblock amp. i ended up removing the 8ga and running a 4ga NXG kit from Sonic.

It will be much easier to manage a single 4 ga run than 2 8s. Just make sure you fuse properly.

As far as wiring, take a look at the PAC FRD24 harness.
I took your advise and ordered the ZCK44 4-Gauge kit today, but I wanted to clarify the fuse situation. The ZCK44 comes with a 100a fuse included for the inline holder. if the ZX700.5 takes three 30a fuses and the CX300.4 takes one 60a, what size fuse should I use? Kicker only makes 60a, 80a, 100a, and 200a fuses, should I go with a offbrand 150a fuse maybe? btw, thanks for the info!
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014
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The 100a and 60 should be fine. Key is to be safe and err on the side of blowing fuses, not starting fires

FUSES

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014 Thread Starter
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Makes sense, thanks again for the info. Did you replace the door subs or use any type of sound dampener with your system? Kicker told me that they tested the Shelby 8" door subs and firmly suggested using some type of noise deadening adhesive material or I would end up with lot of rattles and noise instead of clear clean bass. I hope to find out the most recommended areas to hit to beat road noise as well... not much between me and the road with the 20" Foose and Nitto 555. what do you think?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014
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I stuffed some fiberfill behind my stock door subs. I think this helped to dampen a bit but it is not a huge difference. But for the cost of a cheap pillow , every bit helps

Another cheap improvement is to use duct sealant on your 5x7 mounts. It is a clay-like material that you can press into place and cover with aluminized duct tape. It does not harden and is heat resistant. It helps with sound leaks and deadens rattles and vibrations as well, especially on the flimsy stock door brackets.

I got it at my local HW store for around $10

This is a home audio application, but same idea

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=283961

2011 Mustang 3.7L V6 Premium ∙ MCA (203A)
Ingot Silver ∙ Charcoal Black ∙ Auto
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