Door subs "pop" at power off - need help - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014 Thread Starter
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Door subs "pop" at power off - need help

I recently had an audio shop replace my Shaker 500 OEM door sub amp with an aftermarket unit. When the system powers off, the door subs now make a "pop" noise. Does anyone know what causes this noise or how to cure it? Thanks.


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014
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You will need to wire in a 7805 Radio Shack regulator in the J4 plug. It lowers the voltage from 12v to 5v which the Shaker systems amps require. You are getting 12v direct and causing the amps to "pop". Your radio shop should of known this. It is a very common problem with the Shaker and Navigation heads when installing a non-oem radios. There are plenty of write ups on this on all the Mustang forums. Just type in "radio popping" and you'll find 100's of different writeups on it. All will say to do what i said. Good luck.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014 Thread Starter
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I'm confused. I understand my aftermarket door sub amp is only getting 5v from the head unit turn on wire, but it turns on nonetheless. How does that create the "pop" and would the radio shack 12v to 5v voltage regulator fix the "pop"?

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014
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May want to double check that there is good grounding on bare metal so that the amp discharges into ground and not the woofers...also, most decent amps have internal soft power up/down features that prevent popping. I'm not very familiar with the shaker H/U but most aftermarkets have an integrated time delay on the RTO that allows the amp to power down before the radio.

Is this amp on the OEM woofer's?? or for those CDT's?? The OEM woofers are an odd 1.2ohm load...either way I'd see what this audio shop plans to do for you...that would be a PIA


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014 Thread Starter
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The aftermarket door sub amp is wired for 2 ohms and matched to CDTs wired for 2 ohms. I called the amp manufacturer today (Arc Audio) and they offered no solution for the popping noise at shut down. I'm thinking the Arc amp is still receiving power after the head unit shuts down, and the shut down of the head unit is causing the pop. If that's the case, I don't know how to prevent this problem. I'm going back to the installer this Friday. I will ask them to be sure the Arc is properly grounded and that they are certain that the head unit turn on wire was properly interfaced with the Arc power on connector.

Would you have any other ideas?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2014
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I've heard of using a small time delay relay that keeps the HU on for and extra 1/2 sec. longer than the amp when you cycle the key off...but that could get a little involved and don't want to jump to conclusions. You might only need a small bleed off resister to allow the amp to power down.

Is there any powered up light on the amp?...I'd be interested to see if you can notice if the amp shuts off before/after the head unit and get an idea of just when you get that popping occurs. Any research I've done on this issue never showed any clear cut "cure" for it...usually involves a little trial and error. Surprised ARC had no idea's for you??


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2014 Thread Starter
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Now I know the problem. When looking at the Arc amp in daylight, it's difficult to tell when the amp has power. But it's evident at night because a power light shines up under the dash. The so-called professional installer I used has connected the amp turn on wire to a keyed circuit instead of using the turn on wire from the head unit. Therefore the "pop" when the head unit shuts off.

I'm headed to that shop 1st thing tomorrow!

Thanks to everyone for your input.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014
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Here is a YouTube write up on the popping eliminating. Hope it helps you out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFIe3IIJIds

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014
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^^This^^ is when using an aftermarket HU with the Ford OEM amps...which only uses a 5V RTO.

I believe Shipey has aftermarket amps with the Ford OEM HU which would explain why the installer used a switched 12V source for the amp turn on (most aftermarket amps require a 12V RTO input, and most aftermarket HU's use a 12V RTO output) Ford...for whatever reason only uses 5V to trigger the stock Shaker amp.

I stumbled across this...

Pac TR 4 Low Voltage Trigger Remote Turn on Off Pop for Aftermarket Amplifiers | eBay

Looks like it could be wired to the Shaker head units 5V RTO which would switch a set of dry contacts or some form of internal relay connected to a 12V input source for an aftermarket amp...plus it has built in time delay to eliminate the popping that can happen when the amp and HU turn on/off at the same time...


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Any progress with this??


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014 Thread Starter
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I was out of town for more than a week with no internet access, so I just saw your post. Thank you very much. The PAC part is cheap, so I will try it.

The installer cut my harness that runs from the OEM head unit to the ARC amp (in place of former door sub amp). Would you know if the aftermarket makes an adapter that would have plugged into the factory Ford harness so it would not have needed to be butchered? If something is available, I'd like to replace the factory harness with a new one, and have the installer cut the adapter wires to reconnect the ARC amp. It really tics me off that they cut my factory wiring harness.

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