Shaker 500 8" "subs" in Doors - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014 Thread Starter
GT Member
 
jlee910's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2014
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,931
   
Shaker 500 8" "subs" in Doors

So my 2007 GT has the factory 8" "subs" in the doors, and they're pretty much gone. I've heard of throwing in GT500 Kickers, but I have no idea of what that entails. The 2006 GT I had had the 8" speakers bypassed and replaced with a Kicker 12" in the trunk.

For those of you who have dealt with the Shaker 500 stereo system, how would you upgrade it? Replace the 8" speakers; if so, with what? Throw in a trunk sub and unplug the 8's?

Everything is factory to my knowledge. 6 disk factory head unit is still in place, and I have yet to pull the door panels off. The 8" speakers are definitely blown though.


Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
jlee910 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014
Banned
 
trackpack5.0's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2014
Location: Fresno
Posts: 129
 
I would just replace the 8's, and If you want a sub in the trunk add that seperate

trackpack5.0 is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014 Thread Starter
GT Member
 
jlee910's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2014
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,931
   
I had a 12" sub in the trunk in my 2006 GT, and I hated losing half of my trunk space. I'm wanting to replace the 8's, but local audio shops had said there was nothing I could replace them with worth spending money on, that a sub was my best option. That was before Kicker came out with the new CompRT 8's, which fit with room to spare, but they're $150 a piece and I'll need another amp.

I pulled one door panel and speaker off before the rain hit. I'll have to finish later this afternoon, but they're the factory Ford speakers. I'm leaning heavily towards the CompRT's, but I'm not sure how to go about wiring. 1 or 2 ohm Kickers, to replace the head unit or add another amp just for the two?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20140720_150221_resized.jpg
Views:	3878
Size:	263.2 KB
ID:	365770  

Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
jlee910 is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014 Thread Starter
GT Member
 
jlee910's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2014
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,931
   
So after research, I've reach a consensus that on the Shaker 500, the head unit powers the 4 standard speakers, and each 8" door speaker has it's own amp located in the driver's kick panel get in the floorboard, look at your pedals, then it's on your left. There are two silver Made in China amps with two wiring harnesses each on the wall. Does anybody know the output of these subs?

Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
jlee910 is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014
PONY Member
S197 Member
 
joe_momma's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Rocky Top
Posts: 478
 
Best I remember they are dual VC, something like a 1.2Ohm load or similar. Shelby sells a Kicker drop in replacement as well. The best solution to the Shaker system is, unfortunately, to replace the whole thing. There are some pretty good write-ups floating around on different system solutions.
joe_momma is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014 Thread Starter
GT Member
 
jlee910's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2014
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,931
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_momma View Post
Best I remember they are dual VC, something like a 1.2Ohm load or similar. Shelby sells a Kicker drop in replacement as well. The best solution to the Shaker system is, unfortunately, to replace the whole thing. There are some pretty good write-ups floating around on different system solutions.
I just put it all together, after finding that FUBAR wiring and the two Chinese amps. I'll replace it all soon, but my money is going to long tubes first!

Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
jlee910 is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014
PONY Member
S197 Member
 
Roush114's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Kingston
Posts: 312
 
Here's what I know first hand. The Kicker subs are pretty much plug and play with very little mods needed. Great quality and sound. The factory Shaker amps do not have enough to drive the kickers like they do the stock subs. The stocks have a lower ohm rating than the Kickers. Shelby/Kicker also offered a replacement amp for the door subs that gets mounted behind the glove box (Also plug and play). Its a bit pricey @ $400+. I have not been able to find one for less and for that reason I have held off on the purchase. I also know that all of the quality 8" sub replacements will require a better amp.

2007 Roush Stage 1,Roush Stage2Suspension,Bullitt Strut Brace,RoushCAI,BrenspeedTunes,RoushAxleBack Exhaust,SteedaUnderdrivePullies,SteedaSSBrakelines ,MGWshifter,PaintedRearAxle,Carbon FiberInterior,Leather, Stripes,Alpine CDA-9886 w/BostonAcousticsSpeakers/Shelby Kicker Subs,Sirius, BMR Adj Panhard Bar,CHE K-Member Brace with Torque Limiters,3D Carbon Eleanor Grille,Optima Yellow Top,RadiumEngineeringCatchCan,Shaftmasters Driveshaft,UMI Traction kit,StopTech slotted Rotors,EBC Reds.
Roush114 is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014
PONY Member
 
wjbertrand's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2014
Location: Ventura
Posts: 657
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roush114 View Post
Here's what I know first hand. The Kicker subs are pretty much plug and play with very little mods needed. Great quality and sound. The factory Shaker amps do not have enough to drive the kickers like they do the stock subs. The stocks have a lower ohm rating than the Kickers. Shelby/Kicker also offered a replacement amp for the door subs that gets mounted behind the glove box (Also plug and play). Its a bit pricey @ $400+. I have not been able to find one for less and for that reason I have held off on the purchase. I also know that all of the quality 8" sub replacements will require a better amp.
I've been in conversation with Kicker and have learned just today that the Shelby/Kicker amp only powers the four 6x8s and not the door subs. Rather, that Shelby amp is a 4+1 with that +1 being an output for a trunk sub. At least in my 2013 premium, the OEM door subs, even if you install the Shelby/kicker amp, remain powered by the factory amp. I'm working with Kicker right now to identify the best way to add some thump to the Shelby/Kicker door subs that I installed. Trying to avoid installing trunk sub.

-Jeff-
Ventura, CA
2013 GT Premium Brembo
MGW, Blow Fish, AM Hood Struts
Tinted, Borla Touring AB, ProCal Tune
Full Shelby/Kicker Audio Upgrade
wjbertrand is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014
PONY Member
S197 Member
 
Roush114's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Kingston
Posts: 312
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbertrand View Post
I've been in conversation with Kicker and have learned just today that the Shelby/Kicker amp only powers the four 6x8s and not the door subs. Rather, that Shelby amp is a 4+1 with that +1 being an output for a trunk sub. At least in my 2013 premium, the OEM door subs, even if you install the Shelby/kicker amp, remain powered by the factory amp. I'm working with Kicker right now to identify the best way to add some thump to the Shelby/Kicker door subs that I installed. Trying to avoid installing trunk sub.
It's funny you say that. The same day I posted this I found out the same thing about the Kicker amp. I would have been pretty pissed if I had spent the money and then found out. I'm looking forward to hearing what the guys at Kicker have to say.

2007 Roush Stage 1,Roush Stage2Suspension,Bullitt Strut Brace,RoushCAI,BrenspeedTunes,RoushAxleBack Exhaust,SteedaUnderdrivePullies,SteedaSSBrakelines ,MGWshifter,PaintedRearAxle,Carbon FiberInterior,Leather, Stripes,Alpine CDA-9886 w/BostonAcousticsSpeakers/Shelby Kicker Subs,Sirius, BMR Adj Panhard Bar,CHE K-Member Brace with Torque Limiters,3D Carbon Eleanor Grille,Optima Yellow Top,RadiumEngineeringCatchCan,Shaftmasters Driveshaft,UMI Traction kit,StopTech slotted Rotors,EBC Reds.
Roush114 is offline  
PONY Member
 
wjbertrand's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2014
Location: Ventura
Posts: 657
 
Garage
OK, this just in from Kicker:

They said the factory setup in my 2013 has a dedicated mono signal from the radio to the factory amp, which in turn splits the mono signal to each of the two 8” door subs. They suggested adding an additional aftermarket mono amp (they suggest the 12CX300.1 model) and pull signal from the factory amp in the closest kick panel, and drive both door subs from that aftermarket mono amp. (Same as the factory setup, just adding more amplification).

Having received this information, I'm not really sure how to hook up this extra amp, it sounds like they suggest leaving the factory one in place? It's a much cheaper way to go if all you want to boost are the door subs. Seems the Shelby system philosophy is to depend primarily on a trunk sub for bass.

-Jeff-
Ventura, CA
2013 GT Premium Brembo
MGW, Blow Fish, AM Hood Struts
Tinted, Borla Touring AB, ProCal Tune
Full Shelby/Kicker Audio Upgrade
wjbertrand is offline  
Apprentice
 
poli169's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 64
 
Buying the kickers is kinda of a waste if you ask me you will never get as good bass as getting one on your trunk plus it will be cheaper. But it you're not willing to sacrifice the trunk space then kicker are good.
poli169 is offline  
PONY Member
 
Smokievol's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 583
 
Sounds like the way to go

I Have the Shaker subs in the door and they are under powered. The Kicker Mono Amp sounds like the way to go.
I do not have the Truck Sub, and will not be adding it.

I like this option so if I add a new head unit, I still have the subs amped.
If I need more power for the 2 way speakers ( have installed Pioneer TS-D6802R) I can get one of those smaller amps that will have 40 to 50 watts to each speaker.

There is also a 40 plus page thread rolling on this.

I have a 2008 GT Shaker 500

Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbertrand View Post
OK, this just in from Kicker:

They said the factory setup in my 2013 has a dedicated mono signal from the radio to the factory amp, which in turn splits the mono signal to each of the two 8 door subs. They suggested adding an additional aftermarket mono amp (they suggest the 12CX300.1 model) and pull signal from the factory amp in the closest kick panel, and drive both door subs from that aftermarket mono amp. (Same as the factory setup, just adding more amplification).

Having received this information, I'm not really sure how to hook up this extra amp, it sounds like they suggest leaving the factory one in place? It's a much cheaper way to go if all you want to boost are the door subs. Seems the Shelby system philosophy is to depend primarily on a trunk sub for bass.

2008 GT Premium, MagnaCharger TVS 1900, Brembo Brakes, Whiteline Watts Link, Koni Yellows, Steeda Sport Springs,
J&M Extreme LCA, BMR Relo Brackets, FR500S Axlebacks, TCI Shifter
Smokievol is offline  
PONY Member
 
wjbertrand's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2014
Location: Ventura
Posts: 657
 
Garage
OK, in the end I went with the Shelby kicker trunk sub and 4+1 amp. The Kicker door subs aren't very loud but they do serve to fill in the front compartment sound it seems. The real thump is delivered from the trunk sub. It's a pretty nice unit, hardly takes any room and sounds good to my ears.

-Jeff-
Ventura, CA
2013 GT Premium Brembo
MGW, Blow Fish, AM Hood Struts
Tinted, Borla Touring AB, ProCal Tune
Full Shelby/Kicker Audio Upgrade
wjbertrand is offline  
PONY Member
 
Smokievol's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 583
 
Talked with Kicker today and they stated that the best Amp for the Shelby subs would be the KX200.2. Plenty of power and easy set up.

Had a great deal on install with Best Buy on the CX series....oh well

2008 GT Premium, MagnaCharger TVS 1900, Brembo Brakes, Whiteline Watts Link, Koni Yellows, Steeda Sport Springs,
J&M Extreme LCA, BMR Relo Brackets, FR500S Axlebacks, TCI Shifter
Smokievol is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1