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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017 Thread Starter
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Where to begin?

Picking up a 1966 289 5 speed this upcoming Monday, real exciting times! I'm curious where I can find some of the tried and true parts suppliers out there. This vintage pony car is 20 years older than myself so I have alot to learn in general. Upgrade priority one is a disc brake conversion, where to find the kit? After I can stop effectively its onto the engine. The stock 289 is currently equipped with a holley 4v double pumper. How do I figure out if this is overkill or not? Is this a good carburetor? Any random info anyone has on trusted websites to look into for upgrades and repair parts would be great. Hydraulic clutch conversion will be another upgrade. There will be plenty of stuff to do. Thanks!

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017
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Congrats!!!!!!!

Picking up a 1966 289 5 speed ...Hmmm, they came with either 3 or 4 speed trannys...The tranny's are tried and true as far as the 4 speed go, whether it's a top loader or side loader.


tried and true parts suppliers out there........Find a good local machine shop for your drivetrain, they will make recommendations for suppliers....such as Cloytes, melling, and for cam/valvetrain....Eskenderian! Wheelbearings...Timkin only!!!!


holley 4v double pumper- way too big....the formula for calculating CFM see holley website at..


Carburettor Calculator, Which Carbie, Carburettor Information Perth - Holley Parts Wholesaler


Hydraulic clutch conversion will be another upgrade....IMHO, that would not be an upgrade....your taking a direct actuated mechanical advantage system that has lasted for 50 years and replacing it with a hydraulic system (that will feel a little softer) that will be lucky if it doesn't leak over the next 10 years....plus moisture contamination in the fluid, etc. etc.......just replace the bushings if needed.....readily available. If you do need a clutch.....
I am also not a fanof most of the "mail order" clutch guru's for street use vehicles andthat includes McLeod, etc. A good local clutch rebuilder is best to purchasefrom.....in most cases they have access to the same or better components, havedirect experience with the vehicle you specifically have, have direct knowledgeof general drivetrain/chassis issues, are faster and cheaper than most of theoem replacement units. If you really can't find one, then I would recommend Clutchmasters,267 E. Valley Blvd., Rialto, CA, 909-877-6800.


Upgrade priority one is a disc brake conversion, where to find the kit......I'm not real big on "kits"....and if you are doing this just because you want disc up front, ok.....but will highly recommend the oem disc brake system which all the parts are readily available and are in generally much less $....Mustang Steve will be your best bet IMHO BRAKES


But let me talk about the issue with drum brakes (ingeneral) is youth.......to start with, the replacement linings at most parts houses have a brakingco-efficient of around .25, that is about 50% less than what the oem called forin the 60's (which was .32 or better, most offered .38 replacement linings).Going back to the 70's and through today, linings rated at .49 or better arecommon and typically sell for around $200-$240 a set. longevity, typically 50kto 100k (miles) depends on your foot. Braking capability, every bit as good asoem grade disc brakes (noticed I said oem grade) as I have demonstrated tonumerous "experts"........and remember, the 3/4 scale dirt trackJalopy cars that are running today are required to have drum brakes! (if you ask about CE this will drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts" right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you will find the spec is less than oem).

Second issue...most people have never been taught how to drive with drumbrakes...yes the techniques, there are specific ones, such as applying pressureto the brakes when driving through water to keep the linings dry, etc.

3rd issue, 99% of today’s mechanics have never been taught the techniques ofinstalling drum brakes...such as, cutting the linings to channel water outtowards the backing plates (there are a few requirements on specifically how todo that).

Granted, disc do provided a lot of advantages, but that does not, nor shouldimply that a proper set of drums/linings, installed correctly should be anyless safe.



It really all boils down to thefriction co-efficient....anything greater than .49 will be better than oem interms of its ability to bite. I would avoid Wagner, Raybestos & any rotorfrom the chain stores...as they are all made at the same foundry in China(rotors/drums)

With regards to brake linings in general, Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good
quality OEM linings,
Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg fromvery low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's notproviding any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real uglyspontaneous, catestropihic failures)



VelveTouch lining- Used for manydecades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (Ipersonally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake liningproduction ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Bendix- TitaniuMetallic™ II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I havenot personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brakelinings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oemupgrade/mild performance type brake lining.


CarboTech Engineering lining,which I have used for about 30+ years and been very happy on multiple full size(V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient,excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles beforereplacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.

With regards to drums & rotors, almost all of the aftermarket comes from china- even if its marked USA.....I have them (buy them direct from) cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost ashard as stainless steel- they purchase the highest grade rotor/drum made, laser mic them forquality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the goodones which are now as strong as stainless. DC's service, price and quality are excellent as well.




Ok, I'm done


:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017 Thread Starter
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Excellent info, Thanks! So yeah I am getting it in a few days and haven't even driven the specific car. Been in one years ago and had my eyes open for one ever since. Not sure of the transmission brand but seller said it was a conversion. I'm all for not needing to replace the clutch linkage or drum brakes I just took a guess that they would not be that efficient.
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