New to the Forum, - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Ruffner 143's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Voorhees
Posts: 13
 
New to the Forum,

Hi Everyone, I'm new to the forum, so I dont know if I'm in the right place, I just bought my 18-year-old son 68 coupe, i've been showing him the things that I remember from working on cars, which I forgotten a lot about, AnyWho, I was looking at the Vin number on the door the other night and when I was going through the Vin Index, it said that the door is supposedly a 65, I didn't think that they would match up if it was a 65, so I'm wondering if someone put the Vin number on the door from a different car. has anyone run into this before, to me I wouldn't think it's 65 door would fit on a 68. Any thoughts as what it could be and where some other Vin numbers are that I could check against the title.The title says it's a 68 they came with a straight six, and this has a 302 8 cylinder. Any thoughts guys ???

Ruffner 143 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014
Administrator
Classic Member
4.6L Member
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
B.Cooper's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Area
Posts: 8,008
               
Welcome to the site! I'm with you, I would think a 1965 &1966 would interchange but thought the 1967 & 1968 would be a different size.


Engine mods - all stock, trust me, wanna run??!!!
B.Cooper is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Ruffner 143's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Voorhees
Posts: 13
 
Thanx, B Cooper, I have always thought the earlier models didn't have as much of a pronounced body lines as the 67-68, that's what has me puzzled, to me the doors don't look anything alike, I'm trying to insert Picts of the vin plate on the door n Picts of the car but I don't know how to do that yet in here, I'm using my cell because my computer got a major STD "Virus" lol, n don't work anymore, but when I figure out how to upload Picts I'll show ya, to me, the door looks like either a 67 or 68,
Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll be asking all kinds of questions in here now that I found this Forum, thanx again for the input, Jeff R.....
Ruffner 143 is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
 
Ivy66GT's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 7,898
 
Might you be confusing the body style code for the year? Body 65 was a coupe which had nothing to do with the year.
Ivy66GT is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Ruffner 143's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Voorhees
Posts: 13
 
IvyGT 68, my bad, you are Correct, I haven't had time to look into it the past few days, but when I read your post, I herd the bell go off in my head n I had realized, that was it, sometimes I feel like the Alzheimer's is starting to kick in a lil too soon, I forget things that I should of known,
Thanks for your help, my son was telling me that he was hearing a knocking sound when he went over the speed bumps, this was after we had the new exhaust put on, when I finally had time to take it out with him I herd it too, he told me it's the rear universal on the driveshaft hitting the muffler, but I didn't think so, even thou it was close, it turned out to be the exhaust was hitting a bolt on top of the pumpkin , so I took it to the guy who installed it n he just heated the pipe up n put a lil dimple in the pipe so it wouldn't hit the bolt when it came down, Problem solved. I can't remember back in the day when I drove a car with a carb, but do thay usually take a lil while to warm up before YA can drive without them stalling, unlike a newer car that you can just start it n go, I've been trying to adjust the choke, but I just can't seem to get it set exactly right to where he can start it up n just go, he has to wait about 5-10 mins til it gets warm n then he can drive it away, BTW, after the exhaust job, my grumpy neighbor came over one morning at 6:50 am when we were out there letting it warm up n said, can yous put a new muffler on that because it wakes us up every morning n were exhausted n can't go back to sleep, I told her that we had just put a total new system on n she looked at me like I was nuts, YA its a lil loud but it has never woken me up, she's just a grumpy person, who isn't gettin enough I guess n has to complain about everything, I thought that everyone loved the sound of a classic Muscle Car !!! Lol ,,,
Ruffner 143 is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014
PONY Member
 
ZGrand's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Walnut Grove, GA
Posts: 301
 
Welcome to the site. Post a pic when you can,

2006 GT 5-sp Premium Convertible
ZGrand is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
 
Lizer's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 6,279
 
I wouldn't write your neighbor off completely. I live in the country and can hear my neighbor two houses down every day when he starts his car up. So it isn't unfathomable that it keeps her up. Next thing you know you'll be having to deal with more than just the neighbor...


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

67 coupe--5.0
69 Mach 1 428 SCJ with drag pack
Lizer is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Ruffner 143's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Voorhees
Posts: 13
 
Hi all, I'm finally getting the Stang to run pretty well, though when I throw a timing light in it, it's almost at the TDC mark so I guess it's at around 12-14, if I rotate the distributer cap counter clockwise I thought that would Retard my timing, but instead, it it is advancing it, any it's running pretty high as it is, if I turn it clockwise it will move past the TDC mark n I'm worried about blowing it up, I just can't seem to get the hang of this, I opened an attachment of the steps that someone put up, but I couldn't see all of the numbered steps for setting the needle mixture screws, the choke, fast idle n low idle, I don't have any Manuels here to look at n I'm just trying to set the things by ear, I put the timing light on it n that's and I saw it was up at 12-14, any thoughts ??? Thanks, jeff R. If I'm thinking that it has a motorcraft carb 2150 I think, I'll take a pict of that too when my some gets home from work, thanx again....
Ruffner 143 is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
 
Lizer's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 6,279
 
New to the Forum,

The dizzy rotates counterclockwise so rotating clockwise will advance it. You won't blow the engine up, it will just start to run real bad. You'll know when to stop long before anything bad were to happen.

You want to unplug the vacuum advance from the dizzy and plug the vacuum line before setting the timing.

I'm not sure what you mean by "it's at TDC so must be 12-14." That would be way too much advance, you could back it down to around 8.

Did you have the number one cylinder at TDC in compression stroke before you tried setting timing, and was dizzy cap aligned with the rotor so it was pointing to the #1 wire on the cap? This would be the first thing you set on a rebuild when you're going to fire the engine up, so not sure if this is something that has already been done.

Does your timing light have an advance you set so it fires at TDC? Because otherwise, the timing gun should light every time the 12 degree mark hits the pointer, if in fact it's advanced 12 degrees.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

67 coupe--5.0
69 Mach 1 428 SCJ with drag pack
Lizer is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-01-2015 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Ruffner 143's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Voorhees
Posts: 13
 
Hey Lizar, I have an electronic ignition in it, it's a 302 CID, about turning the dist cap, it wasn't letting me turn the timing down the other day, it would raise the timing regardless which way I turned it, I guess there was something stuck somewhere cause when my son was workin on it the other day, when he turned it counter clockwise, it retarded the timing, no matter what we do, when ever we get it to idle at a normal smooth idle, as soon as we put the air filter back on n take it for a test run, when he gives it has to take off, it begins to spit n spudder n sometimes backfires thru the carb, we also can't get the top butterfly to stay at an 1/8" opening, when we set it to that, it closes totally when it's cold the next morning, were thinking that it's the lean mixture spring is shot, plus there is a lot of slop in the linkage to the chick, after setting it to the 1:8" opening n let go, it open up to about 1/4" mm then beging to idle rough again, I hope that that new spring gets here soon, I hate letting him work on it by himself, cause he Goin around and around in a cont circle, he will adjust the needle valves, then the fast idle screw, then the choke, then the low idle screw, and the timing? Then he starts all over lowering them back down again, he thinks that he always has to tweak it just a little bit better n winds up messin up everything....
I just want go take it to my mechanic n spend $50 n let him set everything to where it should be, don't YA think that would be the easiest and warmest way of doing this, so I'm not freezing my ass off outside trying to watch him playing around with everything,,,,,,
Ruffner 143 is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
 
Lizer's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 6,279
 
Sounds like you guys are pretty green, so you might be best off this time around to take it in. There is a good Holley carburetor tuning DVD that Boxwrench makes (Google it), I'd recommend getting it so you can learn more about tuning and dialing in your carb.

67 coupe--5.0
69 Mach 1 428 SCJ with drag pack
Lizer is offline  
Apprentice
Classic Member
 
Red67's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Moore
Posts: 51
 
Send a message via AIM to Red67
Welcome to the mustang club and the site!
Red67 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1