Need help figuring what my car really is/was - Ford Mustang Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
PonyriderJohn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 7
 
Need help figuring what my car really is/was

I recently got a 1966 hardtop coupe. It has a somewhat modified 289 v8.
Here is what I have...
Front fender number 6T07C197306
Inside door frame number NCS 82968
Data plate on drivers door 65A R 28 25L 23
5F07T366771
So I have several questions...I tried looking these up but I am not sure I got it right and some dont seem to match with yr and model correctly.
What do all these numbers tell me?
What was the original color?
I would like to know what all the car really came with. I have some interest in returning it to original.
Thanks in advance for any help.
John

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4445.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	1,012.2 KB
ID:	604617   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4441.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	1.02 MB
ID:	604619   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4444.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	1.01 MB
ID:	604621  
PonyriderJohn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 72,882
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
Welcome aboard!

Well your data plate doesn't match your stamped VIN so my guess is the door was replaced at some point since you have both a 65 and 66 VIN depicted above.


1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 72,882
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
From the VIN it shows as a 66, built in Metuchen, NJ, as a 289 Cu. In. V8 2 bbl.

1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
PonyriderJohn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 7
 
Thank you.
I thought that may be the case with the door.
How can I find out what the original data plate info was?
PonyriderJohn is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 72,882
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
That might be a tough one. You could explore underneath the seats or taped under the dash to see if you can find a build sheet. Some have got lucky that way.

1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 72,882
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
Your door tag reflects:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture.JPG
Views:	72
Size:	35.6 KB
ID:	604623  

1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
PonyriderJohn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 7
 
Thanks for the info.
What is the actual VIN? the number on the fender?
PonyriderJohn is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 72,882
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
Quote:
Originally Posted by PonyriderJohn View Post
Thanks for the info.
What is the actual VIN? the number on the fender?
Correct. Assuming the fender is original

1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
 
Ivy66GT's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 7,964
 
The North Carolina tag says the car was likely totaled and rebuilt from who knows what kind of parts and a new NC number assigned to it.

Originally there were three matching numbers stamped under the hood. Only one was visible without removing some bolts. The Care and Feeding of Ponies: VIN decoder for 1965 and 1966 Mustangs

Nothing is guaranteed but if only two of those numbers match then that is probably the original VIN. If they all 3 are different then the sheet metal panels each had their own stamped date codes. If enough of them sort of match that probably tells you what year it was. None of that will tell you a color but now you don't even know what year it was made.

The paint color was usually marked on the front of the driver's side radiator support in chalk and might have been painted over with black paint although not always. Those can sometimes be found, if you are lucky. But since its likely a reconstructed parts car there is no guarantee that the radiator support wasn't also replaced.

Depending upon how the car was hit the original paint color is probably the bottom layer on the end that didn't get smashed. That works best if you are doing a complete disassembly and stripping all paint which is probably not what you had in mind.
Ivy66GT is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
 
Ivy66GT's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 7,964
 
On second though, the two numbers stamped on the driver's side were in the same inner fender metal. Those two could agree just because the entire inner fender was changed.
Ivy66GT is offline  
PONY Member
 
Travis98146's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 977
 
Garage
With the NC "rebuild" tag you can have an original of sorts. You'll never have a "numbers matching" car. I'd research the colors that came with your interior color scheme. Your 1966 VIN is about as close as you can get. My '66 VIN calls for a V8 but it has an L6 (the deciding factor being 4 lug axles all around) and this indicates mine is most likely stock with the 6 and manual trans.
Travis98146 is offline  
PONY Member
 
GT'sGT's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 970
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon View Post
Correct. Assuming the fender is original
The fender does not have any number on it, the number is stamped on the fender apron, while fenders are replaced all the time, it's more rare that a fender apron was replaced, but as they get on in years, it becomes more likely due to rust. There is a number that is visible while the fender is on and another that is only visible with the fender removed, at the rear section of the fender apron.
GT'sGT is offline  
PONY Member
 
GT'sGT's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 970
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis98146 View Post
With the NC "rebuild" tag you can have an original of sorts. You'll never have a "numbers matching" car. I'd research the colors that came with your interior color scheme. Your 1966 VIN is about as close as you can get. My '66 VIN calls for a V8 but it has an L6 (the deciding factor being 4 lug axles all around) and this indicates mine is most likely stock with the 6 and manual <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym>.
There is no such thing as a numbers matching classic Ford Mustang, that was a GM thing.
GT'sGT is offline  
PONY Member
 
GT'sGT's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 970
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivy66GT View Post
On second though, the two numbers stamped on the driver's side were in the same inner fender metal. Those two could agree just because the entire inner fender was changed.
Replacement fender aprons do not have a Ford VIN stamped on them at all. I't possible that someone cut one from a doner car and welded it in place, but it would be obvious as the welds will not be the original Ford spot welds, they will be plug welds and possibly seam welds.
GT'sGT is offline  
GT Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Severna Park, MD.
Posts: 2,389
 
As far as a color goes, pull the rear seat cushion and not the color of the floor area. If unmolested, this color is usually a flatter version of the exterior. Unless, of course, the POs did a super paint conversion, or, maybe this was when all of the body panels were added?


Ken
Severna Park, MD
1964 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt Resto-Mod
333 cu.in, dual Webers, CI cam, TW heads,TRI-Ys, 3.55 rear, T5z, TCP susp., real leather seating
kenash is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1