Does your Mustang float? Mine does. - Ford Mustang Forum
Like Tree5Likes
  • 1 Post By my89foxbody
  • 1 Post By Beechkid
  • 1 Post By GT'sGT
  • 1 Post By ONEZ ST
  • 1 Post By johnwaz3661
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
74Basketcase's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
 
Does your Mustang float? Mine does.

Hey guys. I have a different kind of mustang. Its a 74 Mustang 17 by Correct craft. It has a 302 inboard so it even has the heart of a Ford Mustang. This motor threw 4 rods and shattered 3 pistons before I got it so I'm now engine shopping. Planning to run a 5.0 mustang long block and swap over all my marine accessories. The fun part is that I get to run it backwards too, so there are some specialty parts involved. Since it is a ford motor, I figured that a forum like this would be a good place for advice on building my motor, since essentially it is the same. On to the pics!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	MVIMG_20190731_143752.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	905.2 KB
ID:	611015   Click image for larger version

Name:	MVIMG_20190731_143739.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	986.0 KB
ID:	611017   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20190802_105417.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	1.09 MB
ID:	611019  
74Basketcase is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,252
           
Ya know, building an engine for marine is different than building one for the street or race track...…..


:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019
GT Member
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
my89foxbody's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Dracut
Posts: 1,312
 
Garage
How fun would that little boat be with a coyote 5.0
74Basketcase likes this.


2014 GT Premium, Track Pack, Barton shifter, Borla S-type exhaust, Resonator delete, 3.73 gears, Airaid C.A.I., 93 Race Tune, JLT Oil Separator
my89foxbody is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
74Basketcase's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
Ya know, building an engine for marine is different than building one for the street or race track...…..
Some parts are different, sure, but the bulk of it is the same. I do believe my cam choice is somewhat limited since my engine spins the opposite direction as yours. I'm running a Holley carb, so tuning that, setting timing etc, all the same.
74Basketcase is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,252
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Basketcase View Post
Some parts are different, sure, but the bulk of it is the same. I do believe my cam choice is somewhat limited since my engine spins the opposite direction as yours. I'm running a Holley carb, so tuning that, setting timing etc, all the same.


There's a bit more than that......the carb should be a marine spec, and with regards to cam choice, remember, advertised lift/duration is just that.....advertised.....and is not the true ramp profile, etc......only the cam mfg can answer the question of what would be best for my engine/use. I use to live in Lake Arrowhead, saw a lot of guys do a lot of things...… when they took a "street engine" and drop it into a boat, well, they never really performed as well as they should, 2ndly, the engines typically didn't last long, had issues...including corrosion related, and we (and others) would just shake our heads...… the marina guys, their response was always.....hey, that's what the guy wanted.
my89foxbody likes this.

:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
74Basketcase's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
There's a bit more than that......the carb should be a marine spec, and with regards to cam choice, remember, advertised lift/duration is just that.....advertised.....and is not the true ramp profile, etc......only the cam mfg can answer the question of what would be best for my engine/use. I use to live in Lake Arrowhead, saw a lot of guys do a lot of things...… when they took a "street engine" and drop it into a boat, well, they never really performed as well as they should, 2ndly, the engines typically didn't last long, had issues...including corrosion related, and we (and others) would just shake our heads...… the marina guys, their response was always.....hey, that's what the guy wanted.
Certainly the carb, distributor, fuel pump, alternator have to be marine so we don't blow up. The cam, being reverse rotation, is by default a marine cam because I don't think many street motors run in reverse rotation. In regards to corrosion, the only difference at least with my motor is that the core plugs are brass and I have brass drains. I also have two water pumps

Maybe I should be more specific. I'll be looking for advice on the actual assembly of the motor and possibly carb/timing tuning. I wont be building a monster as I want to run standard pump gas but I'll be looking for best practices on how to properly put together one of these motors. Formerly, all my engine experience is with smaller OHC motors. Most recently a TDI rebuild/swap in my 87 4runner.

If it's not the right forum for building a good 302 (even if it is going in a boat), I'll move along, but I figured since it is essentially a mustang motor, who better than mustang guys when it comes for tips and tricks.
74Basketcase is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,252
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Basketcase View Post
Certainly the carb, distributor, fuel pump, alternator have to be marine so we don't blow up. The cam, being reverse rotation, is by default a marine cam because I don't think many street motors run in reverse rotation. In regards to corrosion, the only difference at least with my motor is that the core plugs are brass and I have brass drains. I also have two water pumps

Maybe I should be more specific. I'll be looking for advice on the actual assembly of the motor and possibly carb/timing tuning. I wont be building a monster as I want to run standard pump gas but I'll be looking for best practices on how to properly put together one of these motors. Formerly, all my engine experience is with smaller OHC motors. Most recently a TDI rebuild/swap in my 87 4runner.

If it's not the right forum for building a good 302 (even if it is going in a boat), I'll move along, but I figured since it is essentially a mustang motor, who better than mustang guys when it comes for tips and tricks.


Now I understand...……………….

:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019
PONY Member
 
GT'sGT's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 927
 
First tip, use a Marine engine.
And yes, since the original mustang was very light and will displace more water than it weighs, if sealed properly it will float.
74Basketcase likes this.
GT'sGT is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
Yadkin's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Yadkin Valley
Posts: 6,136
 
Garage
My dad had an inboard boat when I was a kid and it was always stranding us. One day it caught fire so he finally sold it. I didn't think they made them anymore. Because of that I promised myself never to own a boat. "A hole in the water to pour money into." As such, I have very little knowledge of them.

Why would the engine need to run backwards? Can't they make propellers that spin in the opposite direction?

I see that you have a wood frame that spreads the weight of the engine along the hull. I can see a protruding knot in the upper edge. You might need to replace that. I'd suggest using a better quality lumber.

2005 4.0 MT dual exhaust GT mufflers GT suspension and wheels
Yadkin is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
PONY Member
 
baylensmanfl's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2017
Location: largo
Posts: 563
 
I believe FORDMarine engines are still available. Buying a crate motor may save you $$$$ in the long run as there aren't a whole lotta parts in the aftermarket for them. Several rebuilds have them in both standard and reverse rotation (twin I/O set ups) between $2200 and $3200, a few on eBay a little cheaper but its Ebay!

I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL
baylensmanfl is offline  
post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
GLOBAL MODERATOR
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
ONEZ ST's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa Park
Posts: 6,772
           
I'm confused here. A 302 and a 5.0 are the same displacement so I would just buy a reman marine long block for a couple thousand and transfer the accessories.

There is no benefit to trying to use an automobile spec engine in a fresh or salt water environment. Way too many different corrosion resistant materials in the marine engine besides marine accessories already mentioned

Play it safe use a marine spec engine.
Beechkid likes this.

----------------------------
2019 Charger Scat Pack White
2012 Mustang GT, Roush 2300 Black
2006 Mustang V6 Manual Legend Lime Sold
2016 Jeep Willys Silver Vin 060 RIP
2016 Jeep Willys Silver Vin 059 Sold
ONEZ ST is offline  
post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
Apprentice
 
johnwaz3661's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 103
 
Garage
I'm just gonna say with a good deal of the weatherstripping in my Mustang being about 55 years old, It's only slightly more watertight than my motorcycle. Good luck with finding a new (marine) engine.
74Basketcase likes this.
johnwaz3661 is offline  
post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Rookie
 
74Basketcase's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
My dad had an inboard boat when I was a kid and it was always stranding us. One day it caught fire so he finally sold it. I didn't think they made them anymore. Because of that I promised myself never to own a boat. "A hole in the water to pour money into." As such, I have very little knowledge of them.

Why would the engine need to run backwards? Can't they make propellers that spin in the opposite direction?

I see that you have a wood frame that spreads the weight of the engine along the hull. I can see a protruding knot in the upper edge. You might need to replace that. I'd suggest using a better quality lumber.
Boats certainly are a money pit, but so are project cars and we love them all!!

Correct Craft designed the boat with an RR engine for a few different reasons. Yes you can buy props for either rotation, and even my transmission would allow that. I've heard of undesired handling characteristics of these boats that have been converted to standard rotation, so I would like to keep it that way, even if it is a PITA.

You are right, the wood frame (called stringers) are completely rotten on this boat. I've done a few stringer reconstructions and will need to do this one. When new, and once complete, the wood is completely encapsulated in fiberglass. This boat sat with water in it, which crept into the cavities and rotted the wood substructure. Some people use newer composites instead of wood. I say if wood lasted 40 years, with better fiberglassing techniques I can get at least that out of it.

I can buy marine long/short blocks but I am always weary of other shops work and some of them don't have great stories to tell online. That may be the way I have to go. I would prefer to build myself, but may not have that option if I can find a rebuildable core. The marine specific items are easy to swap over to any long block, and the long block is identical and interchangeable for marine/auto except for camshaft and in some cases, head gasket. Heads, valves, pistons, bearings etc are all shared across platforms. There is not much benefit to an automotive block, except availability. Finding a 302 marine rebuildable core is not easy, but finding a mustang motor is a dime a dozen and it is easy to swap over any marine specific parts to that block. The tricky part is the reverse rotation. To run a 1 piece rear main 5.0 block in reverse (with the marine cam and dizzy) I need a rear main seal that is NLA, as they are directional. The older 2 piece blocks (like the one I have) use a 2 piece seal that is available.

I have also found locally a 351 marine engine for decent money. It is supposedly a fresh rebuild, which is unfortunate, but I'll take what I can get. At least with a marine engine I wont have to change the core plugs and drains but I'll still have to swap over all my accessories and exhaust manifolds. (it comes with an intake mani)
74Basketcase is offline  
post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
Yadkin's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Yadkin Valley
Posts: 6,136
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Basketcase View Post

You are right, the wood frame (called stringers) are completely rotten on this boat. I've done a few stringer reconstructions and will need to do this one. When new, and once complete, the wood is completely encapsulated in fiberglass. This boat sat with water in it, which crept into the cavities and rotted the wood substructure. Some people use newer composites instead of wood. I say if wood lasted 40 years, with better fiberglassing techniques I can get at least that out of it.
Look into using PARALLAM® PLUS PSL. It's a through-treated wood product, no voids (full of resin). We use it on decks and other exterior applications where high strength is required.

2005 4.0 MT dual exhaust GT mufflers GT suspension and wheels
Yadkin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1