Intake gasket coolant leak - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019 Thread Starter
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Intake gasket coolant leak

Looking for intake gasket recommendations because of a coolant leak at front of intake on passenger side of engine. It only leaks during the winter months when garage is about 45 degrees. The rest of the year, no leaks. The intake was installed in 2009 when TMS installed the long block engine. Iíve had this problem for the last 5 years. I have a SBF (331) with Trick Flow twisted wedge aluminum heads and aluminum Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. Looking at Fel-Pro 1250 printoseal gaskets. Iíve read when using these gaskets itís best to remove the L shaped gasket material at the water ports. Iím also wondering when the intake was installed, if installer didnít enlarge water port on gasket by removing gasket material to make opening square instead of L shaped. This might be the cause on my coolant leakage because of a wicking effect. The gasket that sticks out past intake is enlarged, sticky and shows signs of coolant. All intake recommendations/installation comments welcome.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019
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Back in the day it was a routine maintenance item to re-torque the intake manifold. Since it's a minor, temperature dependent leak I'd do that first. Do it in stages at the proper sequence.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019 Thread Starter
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Tried that, didnít work.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019
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I like the printoseal type gaskets but throw away the rubber end seal and use RTV instead. Follow any installation instructions for the water ports.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019 Thread Starter
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Iím looking at Fel-Pro 1250 gasket set. Thatís what my Trick Flow / Edelbrock literature says to use.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019
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That should work fine. Like I said, toss the end seals and use a bead of RTV (I use tuff stuff) instead.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019
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Fepro is the best. I believe that set has cork end seals, exactly like the set on my FE motor. A very experienced builder told me not to use them, instead stack up a thick bead of RTV grey. It did not work for me and I made two tries at it.

These normally have a peel off tape on the bottom of the cork so that you "glue" it onto the block surface. I've had much better luck doing that, plus a very thin bead of RTV black on the top surface of the cork, and of course at the four intersections with the side paper gaskets. I also use a thin smear of RTV black on both sides of the paper gaskets, but just around the coolant ports.

Prep the surfaces to remove all the old material and rub down with brake-clean as a final cleaning step.

The only time I would use RTV grey would be if the manifold fit wasn't perfect and I had to make up some height somewhere. The grey sets harder than the black so works better if you have to make a thick seal.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019
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ANY currently made intake gasket without a "steel core" sucks. LITERALLY I have had several sets "suck into the ports" ( yes I retorqued often) from FP to MrG and Edelbrock. The problem was SO bad that FelPro began using a steel core to prevent it. Those are 1250S and 1262S. The issue is more common on aluminum heads than iron heads , but still happens. This has nothing to do with the end seals/silicone to the block. Like others I use a "small" amount of sealer around the water passages. Using "too much" causes the silicone to squeeze into the water passage and restrict flow there or worse yet tear off an go to the radiator.
Others may have different experience , but I won't take a chance anymore.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019 Thread Starter
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Yadkin. When you used cork end gaskets, was the intake aluminum or cast iron
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019 Thread Starter
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Gt350HR. The engine that literally sucked the intake gasket in, was it boosted. Super charger or turbo. I called Trick Flow and the tech told me the only time they recommend the 1250-S3 gasket is on engines that are boosted, otherwise use the 1250 gasket set with RTV at the crossovers and around the water ports. Also trim the gasket if needed at front water port.
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No Both were NA with Ford racing X302/5 heads. A 347 and my current 408. I used a "Torque Master" metal core gasket and it has been fine ever since. Holds torque too. FE Fords do it too. I'm not anti Fel Pro at all but when I find a problem with their gasket , I do something different. This is not "installer" error. The 1250S3 and 1262S have been trouble free. keep in mind that a big engine can pull 20+ inches of vacuum on decelleration . ( Well mine does anyway)
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019 Thread Starter
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Gt350HR. Iím leaning towards the 1250s3 gaskets. Iíll give the torque master gaskets a look at. Thanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpud54 View Post
Yadkin. When you used cork end gaskets, was the intake aluminum or cast iron
I've used them on both. This is my 390 FE.

I used to have a 100# iron DIF beast. Detroit Iron Foundry, Ford's name for it's engine casting factory in the 60's.

I'm currently running a Victor single plane, which is aluminum.

I still have the iron casting. Anyone need a boat anchor?

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Yadkin,
If the manifold casting # is C8OE-C yes I can use it if not , scrap value is a few pennies a pound LOL.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt350hr View Post
yadkin,
if the manifold casting # is c8oe-c yes i can use it if not , scrap value is a few pennies a pound lol.
Randy
c4se9425a


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