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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017 Thread Starter
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Engine Pics

Morning guys,

Anybody got pictures of their engine bay you are willing to share? My '67 is a bit of a mess so spending some time now replacing hoses, belts, plug wires and sending unit wiring. Want to organize and dress up plug wires and so interested in plug wire looms and arrangement that I can copy.

Mine is 289 2v.


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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017
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It's still a work in progress (aren't they always?) but here's mine.



1965 coupe w/ 302 out of a '68, Edelbrock 2027 top-end kit, Autolite 4100, Mustang II front end conversion, AAW wiring harness, rear-disc conversion
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017
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Never ending process. Plug wires and looms are all MSD. Ford typically ran the wires over the valve cover and most pre-made sets are cut to that length. To run below like I've done, you have to make up your own set. It was very easy and fast. Nice to be able to remove the valve cover without disconnecting all the plug wires.
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'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Holley 670 Street Avenger,
MSD Ignition, JBA Headers & Exhaust , T-5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017
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Heh. =(


It's getting better though!
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017
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VMP Stage III Supercharger

Here is the engine of my daily driver:


Engine Pics-blower.jpg
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbohann View Post
Morning guys,

Anybody got pictures of their engine bay you are willing to share? My '67 is a bit of a mess so spending some time now replacing hoses, belts, plug wires and sending unit wiring. Want to organize and dress up plug wires and so interested in plug wire looms and arrangement that I can copy.

Mine is 289 2v.
Post a picture of your engine compartment, so we know what you are starting with. It might inspire some other easy tips to help you get it sorted. Remember, they all started out pretty rough. My entire engine compartment had been sprayed with undercoating. It doesn't get much worse than that!

'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Holley 670 Street Avenger,
MSD Ignition, JBA Headers & Exhaust , T-5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017
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Shock Towers missing?

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Originally Posted by guitarman584 View Post
It's still a work in progress (aren't they always?) but here's mine.
The posted photo bothers me a bit. I don't see shock towers, which I realize might have been shaved by the PO. What bothers me is that it looks like plates have been bolted to cover the holes that were left. It is my undersdtanding that the shock towers are an integral part of the structure of the unibody frame, and these plates should be welded in place.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Reeves View Post
The posted photo bothers me a bit. I don't see shock towers, which I realize might have been shaved by the PO. What bothers me is that it looks like plates have been bolted to cover the holes that were left. It is my undersdtanding that the shock towers are an integral part of the structure of the unibody frame, and these plates should be welded in place.
Thought this kit looked familiar so I checked online and found that these plates are identical to the ones offered in the Mustang II front end kit from Heidts. Even in their instructions, they describe the installation and it appears these are installed correctly. Aside from the obvious space gained on either side of the engine, you'll also notice no export brace or MC bar. Neither is needed!
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'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Holley 670 Street Avenger,
MSD Ignition, JBA Headers & Exhaust , T-5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc

Last edited by rhutt; 02-04-2017 at 05:26 PM.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017
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The missing parts (shock towers and export brace) were there for a reason: to add chassis ridigity. I looked at the Heidts kit and learned that it adds rigitity to the bottom of the chassis with its crossmember. And since the tops of the inner fenders are no longer involved with suspension, I do now see where you might get by with not welding the shock tower covers. But if I were installing the kit I would keep the export brace and weld them just to be sure. Attaching them with screws just doesn't make sense to me. Yea, it's probably faster than welding, but you have to weld the crossmember in, so why not weld the covers while you're at it? It's not like you will ever have to access the area behind them.

But I do realize the PO probably did all this, so welding them may no longer be an easy option for guitarman.

My concern came from installations of a Mustang II kit I've seen on car shows on TV. When they shaved the shock towers they always welded covers over the holes.
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Charles -
Like you, I tend to fault on the side of precaution. To be very honest, every kit I've ever seen installed was fully painted, so I really couldn't tell you if they were bolted or welded in. I will admit that there have been times when I would have killed to have the access provided by that removable panel!

Getting back to the OP's question, I'm sure there are a lot more engine pics out there.

'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Holley 670 Street Avenger,
MSD Ignition, JBA Headers & Exhaust , T-5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc

Last edited by rhutt; 02-05-2017 at 03:41 PM.
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Hi,
this is my engine bay. Soon I will get some polished "shelby" valve covers and maybe later this year I will install some chrome pulleys (both crank and water) and the shelby export brace.
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65 Mustang with rebuild 302 & rebuild C4 + B&M shift kit
Edelbrock performer cam
Weiand street warrior intake & Summit 500cfm carb
Hedman headers (ceramic coated) & Flowmaster exhaust
PerTronix ignition, coil
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It wasn't the PO that did the Mustang II front end, it was me. I like the look of the bolts so that's why I opted not to weld the plates in. That, and if I even need more room to work on something (not likely with the lack of shock towers) then they are easily removable. The bay still needs to be painted so if I decide to weld the plates in then I'll do it before paint. As far as the export braces goes, if I do add them back to the car they wouldn't be welded. They can make it a little harder when working on the MC so they would be bolted if anything. There's also another solution to add more rigidity and that's to add a brace between the subframe and firewall under the fender. I can't remember who sells that system but I like the idea of it. I would never have done the Mustang II front end if it said that you could delete the shock towers but lose strength by doing so.

1965 coupe w/ 302 out of a '68, Edelbrock 2027 top-end kit, Autolite 4100, Mustang II front end conversion, AAW wiring harness, rear-disc conversion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 15PSI View Post
Here is the engine of my daily driver:


[iurl="https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=552441&d=1486161545"][/iurl]
Is there an engine in there somewhere?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman584 View Post
...As far as the export braces goes, if I do add them back to the car they wouldn't be welded. They can make it a little harder when working on the MC so they would be bolted if anything...
Yea, it wouldn't be a good idea to weld them, for the reason you mention. It shouldn't be to hard to make an angle bracket to mount them to. The one on that side is currently out of my '66 waiting on me to get back to putting in the new MC. And it just occurred to me that will be harder in the future when I finally get around to putting in the one piece chrome brace I got awhile back.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017 Thread Starter
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Back to my engine bay wiring....lol

Attached are pics of the engine bay. Gotta clean this mess up!

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