1967 Unisteering woes - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018 Thread Starter
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1967 Unisteering woes

A few years back, I converted my 6 to 8 conversion 1967 convertible to a Unisteer manual R&P unit.


Bottom line is, nothing really fit, and once it was forced into place, it sucked. Expanded my turn radius significantly and already is showing signs of wearing out. Oh, and it made it impossible to easily adjust camber due to cross-brace interference. Plus it has developed a screech at one point during turning. Not fun.


So... I am ready to go to something better. This may also be a good opportunity to get rid of the "spear" steering column. It's a late build date (July) but has a lot of early build characteristics, like the solid steering column.


My first impulse is to find a 1968 rag joint unit and just bring it back to late-67/normal 68 stock; maybe with a quicker ratio.


Any suggestions on where to look for a good unit? Alternatives you think would work well?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018
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The oem unit properly rebuilt is more than adequate...............it powered not only the cobra's but just about every type of vehicle (sedans, dump trucks, etc.) for 40+ years............. I raced these cars in the late 70's..... although the higher end units today are better, there was absolutely no enhancement IMHO with the majority of R&P units used in racing back then.


and unless you are going with wide tires, even the girls had no problem parallel parking these coupes...IMHO, if you really need an assist unit, then look at adapting one of the electric assist units...easier, simplier and effective.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018 Thread Starter
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That is my thoughts exactly. I'm fully capable of muscling my manual steering around, even at my advanced age of 54.

One thing, though. When I went from 185s to 225s, it seems as if the steering got lighter, not heavier. When stationary, I'm kind of thinking that the bigger surface area may actually make it easier to turn.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018 Thread Starter
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I also raced manual steering Mustangs in the late 70s/early 80s.

This particular car was always a ****** car to drive. When I went in to do the Shelby/Arning drop just a few years ago, I found the UCAs were over an inch off on both sides. I'm wondering if that was the issue, all these years. I've owned this car since '76, btw.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018
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You might think about going with electric power steering. It changes out the column, so no more spear - but everything's under-dash. No leaky hydraulics, no fuss, once you get it in, and they work really well from what I've heard. Some of them are even speed-sensitive, so they help more in the parking lot, but give less assist out on the highway for better road feel.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimbrand View Post
You might think about going with electric power steering. It changes out the column, so no more spear - but everything's under-dash. No leaky hydraulics, no fuss, once you get it in, and they work really well from what I've heard. Some of them are even speed-sensitive, so they help more in the parking lot, but give less assist out on the highway for better road feel.
I haven't seen any self contained units. Only a part here and/or a part there, and I have no desire to buy it "one piece at a time".


In my experience, I end up buying everything three times over when I do that. Nothing ever fits together or is compatible.


To me, that's the biggest downside to these.


I'd like to find a unit that includes the steering set up, soup to nuts.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018
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https://www.cjponyparts.com/electric...SABEgL9BvD_BwE

Installation, however, is up to you. Some assembly IS required. =)

Wouldn't say it's any worse than converting to any other type of PS unit, though...
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimbrand View Post
https://www.cjponyparts.com/electric...SABEgL9BvD_BwE

Installation, however, is up to you. Some assembly IS required. =)

Wouldn't say it's any worse than converting to any other type of PS unit, though...
I've already seen that, and based on my CJPony experience, if I ordered it, I'd have to buy the equivalent of 2-3 steering setups worth of parts to get one that "kinda, sorta" works.


I have a friggin' box full of clutch pedal assemblies left over from my last CJPony butt-pain. And a bunch of additional shifter parts, which took 3 friggin' months to get here, and it's still a botched up job.


Count me unimpressed with CJPony "kits".
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018
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I believe that Flaming river makes a complete rack and pinion with cradle that use all the original spindles and brakes. Kits are pricey but buying all the original 67/68 stuff and getting it all rebuilt isn't cheap either.

On the steering box ratio GT and all PS cars had a 4 /14 turn lock to lock box, regular manual was around 5 1/8 turns lock to lock. adding the shelby control and idler arms to the system will make it even quicker.

As far as original PS leaking, I rebuilt my system in 1989 and sold the car in 98 i put over 50K miles on it in that time and it never leaked!

I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL
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Converted my 67 Convertible last year to Unisteer manual r&p. Had squeaking noise when turning left and turning radius was poor. Turns out after working with Unisteer that the wrong tie rod ends were the problem. They sent correct ends and turning radius came into line at 32 ft, squeaking stopped and it feels great going down the road.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Converted my 67 Convertible last year to Unisteer manual r&p. Had squeaking noise when turning left and turning radius was poor. Turns out after working with Unisteer that the wrong tie rod ends were the problem. They sent correct ends and turning radius came into line at 32 ft, squeaking stopped and it feels great going down the road.
That's EXACTLY the case with mine. If so, that means every single fricking part they sent me was wrong.

I'd be willing to try to make it work, if that is all it will be.
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Yeah turns out if you order without talking them through your 67 the chances are 50/50 they send wrong tie-rod ends....ball joints loose in spindle...it took 1 call for them to figure it out and they sent me correct ones.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2018 Thread Starter
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Yeah turns out if you order without talking them through your 67 the chances are 50/50 they send wrong tie-rod ends....ball joints loose in spindle...it took 1 call for them to figure it out and they sent me correct ones.
Well, my rack mount is the wrong size, which they wouldn't replace, because I scratched it on installation, they sent me the wrong u-joints, wrong bearing, wrong intermediate shaft and the mounting collar was wrong.


I bubba'd the rack mount to fit, but it needs removed to adjust camber, which is a PITA. When I get home this time, I'm going to redrill the camber adjustment access holes so they allow access and talk to them about different tie rod ends.


Don't understand the relation between tie rod ends and that annoying squeal; am willing to work that issue separately.


One of the issues I've found trying to work with them, is that the CSR wastes your time trying to defend their product and inform you its out of warranty, when all I wanted was to order a new part which I would gladly pay for. "We've Never Had That Complaint Before" must be written as part of the script their CSRs have taped atop their computer screen.
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