Distributor hold down clamp - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019 Thread Starter
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Distributor hold down clamp

Two weeks ago car wouldn't start and after checking the usual culprits I found out the HEI could rotate easily by hand. I found ignition time and tightned the sucker down. Yesterday night I checked the bolt and I noticed it was starting to come loose one more time. I've had this Mr. Gasket hold down clamp for years now but is not cutting it anymore. I can always add loctite but don't want that. I see a bunch of ford 302 clamps online but what would you guys recommend me? Thanks



J



1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019
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If you don't want LOCTITE i can understand, tr going to Lowes and getting a NYLOC bolt of that size.


I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019
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Or just put a lockwasher under the head of the bolt. I like the star washers.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019
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Is that a shiny, smooth, chrome one? I have never had a problem with the factory clamps with lock washer coming loose.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019
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Add a split washer or a star as suggested before buying a new plate.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019 Thread Starter
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I'll be heading to the hardware store tmw and try to find either a bolt or washer like those described. Ivy, yes that's the one I have. Thanks again guys



J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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It's been over 3 months since i started this thread and i found myself dealing with this issue again today. The only thing i did was add a split washer though. I'm wondering if checking for the clamp hold down bolt monthly is a maintenance thing? at least with this crappy clamps. I found 1 header bolt lose a few weeks ago when i changed out my brake booster. I checked all them bolts afterwards and found another one about to come lose on the passenger's side. I'll try the star washer next time.. too lazy to start playing with the dizzy again feeling more like



J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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No, it's the chromed surface doesn't let the washer get enough bite to hold it. Get a normal stamped steel hold down or get a piece of mild steel plate (A36) and make your own using the one you have as a template.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Get yourself a standard OEM holding clamp. Mine never work loose.

15/5/1964 260 Manual Coupe.
23/3/1965 289 Manual Fastback.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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You have a balance or harmonic issue in your engine. Fasteners don't ( typically) loosen on their own . A shake or vibration will do it every time. I had a Boss 302 engine that used to loosen valve cover bolts all the time. Turned out two rods were heavy on a completely original short block. Had it balanced and never had a loose bolt after that. It could be the harmonic balancer too.
Randy

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Header bolts...yes, even in the 70's those were and always have been a monthly check....unless you have stage 8 type locks for them.....as far as the distributor holddown….you like your chrome and I understand....just take 60 grit sandpaper on a dremel and remove the plating material in the circumference area of the bolt/lockwasher….until you get back to bare steel....give it a shot of paint to protect it against rust.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Randy, i really hope that's not the case but anything is possible even on a new engine. Before getting more involved into this i will buy an OEM hold down clamp and give it a try. Let say the new piece doesn't solve the issue, how can i do a calibration test on the engine without taking it apart? is that even possible?


BeechKid, i'll be honest here i have come to hate chrome and i've noticed that only rich guys get their engines all chromed up I'm dirt poor and lazy so i've tried to get rid off as much chrome as i can from my engine bay. I like the EMO look on my engine now, very functional when it comes to hide nastiness!



J
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1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
JustAnotherRuki is offline  
post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Dropped by one of the junkyards around here, you pull you save kind of and hit the jackpot. i found an 86 Bronco and early 90's F150 with 302/5.0 engines. I snatched these 2 puppies for 1 buck! i have them soaking in degreaser now.





J
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1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
JustAnotherRuki is offline  
post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Most of the aftermarket hold down clamps either chrome or not are too hard! Part of the tightening process is some deflection in the steel itself I hope the stockers bring you back to spec!Interesting side note:
I had a customer who's 1969 ivy green coupe show car, constantly ran bad. He had it tuned up at local garages almost monthly. He finally brought it to me. I had him stand with me as i began the tune up, after loosening the distributor bolt and moving the timing to bring it into spec (car immediately sounded better) i reached for the ratchet to lock it down. While doing so he reached over and turned the dizzy back to where it was! I said why did you that Just set the timing. His replay is that at a show he wanted the vacuum advance unit to point straight forward so it would look better! After a long explanation of how the dist worked he finally understood and left it alone.
After showing him a few things wrong (not stock) in his engine compartment he finally won his first trophy with the dist not pointing straight ahead.

I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL
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