Any recommendation on leaf springs and components? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Any recommendation on leaf springs and components?

She has been sagging badly for a while now and is about time to get those old things replaced already. I've got a budget of $450+, I've been reading good reviews on drakes'springs, same as CJ's kit which is pretty affordable. I just feel I need a better bushing kit and I'm not sure where to start with that. Also, what else is out there to make the rear suspension more likeable? Any suggestions on swaybars, caltracs. The car is 90% street and I've never experienced any wheel hopping but I was wondering if any guys have the Calverts on for street use?


J



1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019
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I have new 4.5 leaf mid eye in the rear and Scott Drake shocks, I was told that SD are crap but the ride is excellent and have no issues with them. The extra half leaf is great when carrying people in the back, it will not sag and the ride is comfortable. The mid eye makes the car sit pretty level too.
Honestly, if it is for mainly street use, just go with rubber bushes, don't bother with poly.
Be prepared to swear a lot when it comes time to remove the front eye bolt and bushing. Mine were rusted in and it involved a grinder, sawzall and a cold chisel with a big hammer to get them out.


15/5/1964 260 Manual Coupe.
23/3/1965 289 Manual Fastback.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony 64 View Post
I have new 4.5 leaf mid eye in the rear and Scott Drake shocks, I was told that SD are crap but the ride is excellent and have no issues with them. The extra half leaf is great when carrying people in the back, it will not sag and the ride is comfortable. The mid eye makes the car sit pretty level too.
Honestly, if it is for mainly street use, just go with rubber bushes, don't bother with poly.
Be prepared to swear a lot when it comes time to remove the front eye bolt and bushing. Mine were rusted in and it involved a grinder, sawzall and a cold chisel with a big hammer to get them out.
The last one I did just slid right out like it was installed the day before and not the 53 years ago it actually was.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019
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I agree with Tony 64 about the front bolt. Mine were a real mess. The problem is not how to loosen the bolt, but how to cut the spring out from between the mounts without damage. Grinding the outside off does not help, the spring will not fall down and there is no room to force the bolt either way.



The bolt goes inside a steel sleeve, the sleeve goes inside the bushing, the bushing goes inside the spring. The problem is the bolt and bushing 'weld' themselves together over the years. You can get the spring to move a bit giving some room for a saw or cut off wheel. And rotating the bolt/sleeve helps with the cuts.
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1968, hardtop, 289, C4, seafoam green.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks for that shot Driveway! It starting to make sense how the bushing works in the eye of the spring. I've no doubts it will be a major pain for that bolt to slide out. I'll probably start spraying wd40 a week in advance and see what it does. Tony, thanks for the suggestion on the 4.5 spring.




J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019
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Yes it was a pain to remove that eyebolt. First one took nearly 2 hours but the other maybe 30 minutes after I knew what to do.
If I remember correctly i cut the eye of the spring off the bushing, hacked away at the rubber to expose the bush then used the 4' grinder to get up and cut the bolt from either side.

15/5/1964 260 Manual Coupe.
23/3/1965 289 Manual Fastback.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnotherRuki View Post
I've no doubts it will be a major pain for that bolt to slide out. I'll probably start spraying wd40 a week in advance and see what it does.
J
I don't think WD40 will work, or anything for that matter.
As Driveway said, it will literally weld itself to the bolt.

You could try, no hurt in that.

15/5/1964 260 Manual Coupe.
23/3/1965 289 Manual Fastback.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT'sGT View Post
The last one I did just slid right out like it was installed the day before and not the 53 years ago it actually was.
Very lucky for that to happen.

15/5/1964 260 Manual Coupe.
23/3/1965 289 Manual Fastback.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I went with Mike Maier leaf springs with polyurethane front bushings and rubber rear bushings. What I like about these springs are that they have 5 leaves with the last leaf shifted to the front. This gives better resistance to wheel hop. They are just above your price range though. A rear sway bar is probably overkill for a street car. You could also add a Panhard bar in the future. Between those two upgrades, you should be in good shape. I also switched out my shocks to Bilsteins to work with the Mike Maier leafs. Still haven’t installed my Panhard yet but the leafs and shocks work great.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I have Eaton Detroit rear springs. ML1389+1. Give them a call.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcc351 View Post
I went with Mike Maier leaf springs with polyurethane front bushings and rubber rear bushings. What I like about these springs are that they have 5 leaves with the last leaf shifted to the front. This gives better resistance to wheel hop. They are just above your price range though. A rear sway bar is probably overkill for a street car. You could also add a Panhard bar in the future. Between those two upgrades, you should be in good shape. I also switched out my shocks to Bilsteins to work with the Mike Maier leafs. Still haven’t installed my Panhard yet but the leafs and shocks work great.

I checked their website yesterday night and I'm almost sold on their springs. Something like this is what I was looking for. I have 1" sway bar in the front, subframe connectors and export brace which I put it recently. Im happy with KYB shocks I put in too. I'm looking forward to those springs and hopefully it will be a nice overall setup for a street cruiser. Question, did you get their shackles? I need to get me all new hardware plus plates and I think I'm better off getting these somewhere else. I will be buying their poly bushings for the front eyes though.


J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpud54 View Post
I have Eaton Detroit rear springs. ML1389+1. Give them a call.

Thanks for the suggestion!


J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I bought the MM leafs through Mustangs Plus as it was cheaper when you factor in shipping. I bought all of bushings from Mustang Plus which were cheaper as well. They are their Grab-a-track Line. They’re pretty much the same.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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i jacked up the rear today and started spraying WD40 in several areas. These old leaf springs are worst than i thought and to think i was driving it like this... I just ordered first batch of parts and next week i intend to order the leaf springs.




J
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1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back

Last edited by JustAnotherRuki; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:38 PM. Reason: picture editing, grammar correction
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I get all my suspension components here
https://opentrackerracing.com
John can tell you what you need to go with the front components so your rear end will sit correctly.....


Beri Fraley
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If you find yourself in a fair fight, you haven't been trained properly.
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