Transmission swap - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019 Thread Starter
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Transmission swap

I currently have a 3 speed manual 68 fastback and I would like to convert it. I know most of you are going to say why why why would you do that but it is just very uncomfortable for me to drive. I’m on the shorter side and for me to drive it my gut almost has to be hitting the steering wheel for me to get the clutch down to the floor. It makes me not want to drive it as much as I would like to. That all being said do you have any recommendations on a transmission to drop in it? Has anyone ever done one? I have an auto in my 66 that I could pull out and rebuild and put in the 68 so I guess that’s one option. Just looking for some ideas or guidance. Thanks

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019
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You have to consider the necessity of changing your shift lever and pedal assembly (along with the corresponding linkages). If both engines are the same, you might not have issues with the bell housing bolts matching. If you have a center console, you add another variable. It's do-able but not an easy/quick swap.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019
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I feel the same way. My wife's Alfa Romeo has a manual tranny and it's kind of fun for the first 15 minutes and then becomes a PITA to drive. I much prefer a fast shifting solid automatic any day of the week. It will be a very rewarding project for you to complete and a major upgrade.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019
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The C4 is a great lightweight transmission that can handle plenty of power, and shifts great. It'd be an excellent choice if your rear gears are 2.80-3.25 or so. If you already have steep rear gears, you might think about trading up to a heavier 4 speed overdrive transmission like the 4R70W.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondoerr68 View Post
I currently have a 3 speed manual 68 fastback and I would like to convert it. I know most of you are going to say why why why would you do that but it is just very uncomfortable for me to drive. Iím on the shorter side and for me to drive it my gut almost has to be hitting the steering wheel for me to get the clutch down to the floor. It makes me not want to drive it as much as I would like to. That all being said do you have any recommendations on a transmission to drop in it? Has anyone ever done one? I have an auto in my 66 that I could pull out and rebuild and put in the 68 so I guess thatís one option. Just looking for some ideas or guidance. Thanks
A few thoughts from my distant memories: The rear crossmember changed after 66, so 67-68 would have a different style. Whether the mount bolts location remained the same, is unknown. You need to measure the distance from the engine rear surface where the bellhousing bolts up to the bolts in the rear crossmember where the mount sits. If the same, hell's bell's! If not, fabrication in order. Both slip yokes on driveshafts should be alike, but tailshaft lengths between manual and auto may be different. Furthermore, depending on engines here, the pinion distance for u-joint purposes is different between 8-inch and 9-inch rear axles. If the '68 has the 9-inch, driveshaft length may become another headache. This all depends on how much time is available to do the job (can the car be laid-up awhile?), and the resources available to you. Good luck.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019
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The conversion probably doesn't make sense from a value standpoint but I'm sure that you already know that. If it were me I'd probably change out the clutch pedal pad for a thicker rubber block.

But, if you are going to convert it to an automatic then I'd recommend obtaining an AOD and having it rebuilt with a high horsepower package.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019
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Pedal and pedal support to automatic style available repro. add and external cooler or swap the radiator for and automatic with builtin cooler both available aftermarket. You'll need a torque convert and flex plate again both available. Drive shaft may change a bit maybe just front yoke. The cross member will work fine it didn't change until later 69 and big block cars. New speedometer cable. Not a very hard conversion if you have everything lined up.

Have you thought of going with a center force or dual plate clutch or even a hydraulic throwout bearing conversion, any of those will reduce the foot pressure required to shift. I always like the first gear int he 67 and 68 with that low 3.03 gear.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019
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Originally Posted by baylensmanfl View Post
Pedal and pedal support to automatic style available repro. add and external cooler or swap the radiator for and automatic with builtin cooler both available aftermarket. You'll need a torque convert and flex plate again both available. Drive shaft may change a bit maybe just front yoke. The cross member will work fine it didn't change until later 69 and big block cars. New speedometer cable. Not a very hard conversion if you have everything lined up.

Have you thought of going with a center force or dual plate clutch or even a hydraulic throwout bearing conversion, any of those will reduce the foot pressure required to shift. I always like the first gear int he 67 and 68 with that low 3.03 gear.
T-5 would be a good manual choice; has 2.95 1st., plus O/D.
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