'65 GT Fastback, couple questions - First Post! - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019 Thread Starter
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'65 GT Fastback - headlights, interior paint - First Post!

Hey everyone,
I'm joining the club to help my dad out on his car - we've had this '65 fastback 289 4-speed for about 31 years. Pop estimates he's put roughly 80k miles on it in that time. When he was still working, he'd commute in it occasionally. He takes it out fairly often, and we drive it from Long Island, NY up to Lime Rock Park in Northern CT and to the Goodguys show upstate. It's a driver and that's how we like it.

So, on the subject of driving - in the dark - I'm looking for some good tips on upgrading the headlights. I've seen some kits that range from $40 to over $150, with spotty reviews. Personally, I'm not a big fan of the popular options with clear lenses, aesthetically. I've heard of some that would simply allow us to plug in modern H4 bulbs. Has anyone tried those? Any issues with the wiring? I'll take any feedback I can get.

Question 2: We're looking for the correct type of paint for the inner door panels. Along the top, where you'd rest your arm, there's sort of a bumpy texture to paint and we don't know how to replicate that.

This looks like a great site for Mustang guys, happy to have found it.

Thanks
-Steve

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019
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Best way to go with headlights if you want to keep it original is to install relays in the loom.
Plenty of info in this forum and on the web on how to do it.
I have H4 crystal lights on my 65 and they are so much brighter than the sealed beams on my 64. No issues.

The texture on the doors is not paint, it is textured like that in the metal.
The only way to get the texture right is to sandblast the panel and start again.
Rubbing the old paint back will only fill the dimples and make the surface flat.


15/5/1964 260 Manual Coupe.
23/3/1965 289 Manual Fastback.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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If I were doing it in my 68 mustang and if I wanted it to appear stock but not perform as stock I would opt for the mustang project led headlights. The look like a sealed beam classic headlight but inside it is a 5000 lm Cree LED. I have the led bulbs in my 68 but I wanted to go with halos. The lights are life changing. https://www.mustangproject.com/Produ...4-32ae009cc76c

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Before I rewired my 68 I used redline lumtronix plug in harness for the more power hungry bulbs that modern halogen bulbs are. They are also available a few other companies like painless and America Autowire. https://www.cjponyparts.com/redline-...waAkKcEALw_wcB

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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First, let me clarify a myth that is quite commonly believed for some unknown reason. Halogen bulbs do NOT draw more current/power than standard incandescent bulbs. They operate at a higher temperature so they generate more LIGHT, and a whiter light for the same current. For some of them they generate the same light with LESS current. There are ZERO reasons to say that halogen uses more power; its not true. A road-legal H4 bulb draws the same 55/60W as does the standard, lousy, incandescent bulb replacements sold today to replace the ones Ford installed in 1965. A Watt is a Watt no matter what type of bulb it is. 60W incandescent and 60W halogens use an identical amount of current and power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief Brody View Post
...I've heard of some that would simply allow us to plug in modern H4 bulbs. Has anyone tried those? Any issues with the wiring?
That is absolutely the way to go. Cibie was/is the best name in European headlights and they fit perfectly in your car with no modifications whatsoever. They sell for around $100/pair on Amazon plus buying a couple of H4 bulbs for an additional $13. I have them in two cars with original wiring. There is no need for any relays which only give you more parts to some day fail. Lumens are not all you want. You want a system that uses a bulb and reflector that are matched to each other. No LED bulb will work properly in anything designed for a halogen or incandescent. You may have a million lumens but if they are scattered everywhere that only generates glare not to mention being illegal for highway use. There are laws in every country limiting the brightness of headlights for legal use on public highways.

Everything I describe in my 2013 thread (see link below) is certified for European highway safety rules while giving you the best lighting I have ever seen in an early Mustang. They are not technically legal in some states but most of the higher powered conversions are not legal in ANY state. The Cibie produce such a well controlled light pattern that its highly unlikely anyone, in any US state, will even know they are not factory lights. Only you as the driver will know the difference.

There is no need for a 100W H4 bulb which makes any headllight illegal in every US state. Stick with the standard 60W H4 for excellent lighting.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...ghts-66-a.html
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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The bumpiness on the doors is a pattern embossed into the metal. The paint was standard, smooth lacquer which should be available in a spray can from the Mustang parts sellers.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Awesome - thanks for the replies, guys. I really appreciate the info. A couple of days ago, we replaced the front shocks - the old ones were DONE. The car drives so much better (obviously haha). Hoping to tackle the headlights soon. Longer term goals are a rebuild for the 289 and replacing the 4-speed with a Tremec 5-speed. Hopefully, that'll be completed within the next 2-3 years. Good stuff. Thanks again.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony 64 View Post
Best way to go with headlights if you want to keep it original is to install relays in the loom.
Plenty of info in this forum and on the web on how to do it.
I have H4 crystal lights on my 65 and they are so much brighter than the sealed beams on my 64. No issues.

The texture on the doors is not paint, it is textured like that in the metal.
The only way to get the texture right is to sandblast the panel and start again.
Rubbing the old paint back will only fill the dimples and make the surface flat.
Lacquer thinner or paint remover like aircraft paint stripper will remove all of the paint, including that in the valleys, but it will take some time to do it right. I do not recommend sand blasting it, that will leave particles everywhere and you will never get them all out again. Chemical removal is best and cleanest, but have fresh air and a respirator is a good tool. Don't forget your gloves.

Headlights. I recommend these. They are plug and play and have a lower draw than your current lights so they don't require adding a relay.

"Headlight Experts LED Kits are built with Industry Leading, Top of the Line Phillips Lumiled ZES LED's that put out an amazing 6000K color temperature that is absolutely perfect for looks and visibility. Our lights put out 4000 lumens each for the best visibility that money can buy, while maintaining your factory beam pattern so you are not annoying the other drivers. Compare this to your factory halogens that put out 1200 lumens. These are over 3X brighter! These are designed in aircraft grade CNC machined housings that are engineered right, so there is a perfect beam with no light scatter."
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I have a collection of H4 headlights. All junk. Open this album and look at pic ten from the top. Those are H4 and they put light everywhere but on the road. When they tried to move the Fresnel effect from the lens to the back shell they lost it.

Seven inch H4 is now old technology.

Now look at two pics near the bottom of the album. Those are sealed, multi element LED. They work.

https://goo.gl/photos/PPcZpByXAgfp8kTk6
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