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Hydraulic Clutch Recommendations

4K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  MIDLOTHIAN 
#1 ·
I currently have a 69 stang with a 351w and an fmx automatic. I’m looking at Modern Driveline to do a t5 manual swap. Since most of my modifications are based on what fits on automatics, I’m pretty much stuck with going with a hydraulic clutch. Modern Driveline has their own hydraulic clutch along with all of the other parts and pieces to complete the conversion. My question is... should I look at another hydraulic clutch manufacturer such as Wilwood or McLeod? My instincts tell me to stick with MDL to avoid any potential compatibility issues since every other conversion part would most likely be from MDL.
 
#2 ·
Mustangs came in great numbers with mechanical release clutch linkages, foolproof, leakproof, reliable.

IMO I would never opt for a juice-clutch unless absolutely necessary; even Fox Body cable releases are superior. Just my opinion.
 
#6 ·
The original 64-70 fish clutch linkage was not foolproof or reliable! I welded and reeled dozens of Z bar due to ovaling out. Clutch arm retainer springs by the hundreds and washers seals and nylon business also in the hundreds. Adjustment is haphazard at best.
When the conversion kits to the fox type cable kits came out every car we did got one unless its was trailer queen show car. I'd prefer the cable over a "JUICE" clutch any time. I rescued too many jeeps with that goofy set up to care for it.
 
#3 ·
I have headers installed that will probably not clear the factory Z bar or cable clutch. Plus I would have to locate a Z bar since I don’t have any of these parts. From a cost standpoint, I probably would’ve gone with a cable clutch. The hydraulic clutch seemed like the safest option.
 
#4 ·
I fabricated my own hydraulic clutch master cylinder bracket to fit on top of the pedal support, and behind the gauges. Now, it is for a '65, so my design won't bolt in on yours, but the concept should work. I used 3/16" plate steel to make it. Just make sure that the pushrod angle doesn't go over 3 degrees, or it'll wear out the master really fast. I used a Wilwood master cylinder and a CNC slave, and then made my own bracket to bolt to the tabs on the T5. It works great so far.
 

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#5 ·
I have a Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch set up, and it was a game changer. It made driving my 4 speed Mustang fun again. I opted for Shelby exhaust manifolds instead of headers, and have never regretted it. They fit much better and don't require all the things headers often make you install on your steering assemblies.

I had them set up my clutch system for a future 5 speed swap out over my original 4 speed top loader. I've made the swap now, and am even happier. Just make sure you install the under dash assembly dead as level, and plumb to avoid binding issues down the road.
 
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