1965 Drum Brakes Restoration - Ford Mustang Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019 Thread Starter
MRobins's Avatar
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 9
1965 Drum Brakes Restoration

My 65 A code with 4 speed manual has 4 wheel drums. Currently, one wheel has a brake line leak so I plan to fix. However, I do want to take this opportunity to overhaul the entire braking system and upgrade where financially feasible. I am also cognizant that eventually I plan to restore the car for original non-modified status car shows. Based on these two points, upgrading to front discs is out.

The master cylinder is the original small single one. Any recommendations on what to change this to?

Also, brake line ideas? I plan to replace them all. Better to buy pre made or make yourself?

Lastly, Any recommended source for concours 1965 Mustang brake supplies?

MRobins is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019
PONY Member
07redstang's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2018
Location: Poteau
Posts: 322
Is the one leak the only issue? Drum brakes are fairly simple to work on. If your stock lines are in good shape leave them alone just replace all the rubber ones. You can buy rebuild kits for wheel cylinders and the master cylinder.

07redstang is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019 Thread Starter
MRobins's Avatar
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 9
Yes, leak is on one wheel (rear) and master cylinder seems to be leaking.
MRobins is offline  
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019
mustangmarty2's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2019
Location: New England
Posts: 11
I know you said stay original but dual resevoir master is safer . 65 and 66 only came single resevoir , so you can use a 67 drum brake dual res. master but must use pushrod from your original . I did this on my 66 drumbrake stang , no problems .
mustangmarty2 is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019
PONY Member
07redstang's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2018
Location: Poteau
Posts: 322
I would install a remanufactured master and wheel cylinder, save the originals for rebuild later. You can get the parts through your local parts store or any of the internet parts suppliers. If the shoes were saturated replace them as a set for both rear wheels.

07redstang is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
Ivy66GT's Avatar
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 7,940
Complete new wheel cylinders are so cheap today at NAPA I quit trying to rebuild the old ones. Half the time the cylinder bore is pitted and the 'rebuild' is short lived. New ones avoid a lot of hassle at nearly the same cost. Just make sure you get ones with the correct cylinder ID. The modern parts books don't always accurately list the size changes that happened over the years.
Ivy66GT is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019
BOSS Member
Beechkid's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,340
I completely agree with your objectives...and drum brakes can be very effective systems. With that said, let me provide the following recommendations.....

With regards to the master brake cylinder, although the oem (jelly jar/ie single bowl) is a very well designed component, upgrading to a duel bowl cylinder does increase the safety aspect in the event of failure. the 1974 Maverick V8 has a duel bowl master brake cylinder, came in both manual & power drum/drum & disc/drum brake configurations and the size/weight/brake system is identical to the 65/66 mustangs....a very common mod back in the 70's and 80's....and is IMHO, a "good thing". Of course it is always best IMHO to buy from a local vendor..... but NAPA is typically always a good supplier as is
WhitePost Restorations, One Old Car Drive POD White Post, Virginia , 540-837-1140. Another excellent supplier for wheel cylinders is
9424 Eton Ave. #I,J,K, Chatsworth, CA 91311 866-756-5536 818-772-5540. I would avoid like the plague the "chain auto part stores" as most of their components are junk IMHO.....unless you need a component to rebuild...then they are a good cheap source.

The replacementlinings at most parts houses (for shoes/drums) have a braking co-efficient of around .25, that isabout 50% less than what the oem called for in the 60's (which was .32 orbetter, most offered .38 replacement linings). Going back to the 70's andthrough today, linings rated at .49 or better are common and typically sell foraround $200-$240 a set. longevity, typically 50k to 100k (miles) depends onyour foot. Braking capability, every bit as good as oem grade disc brakes(noticed I said oem grade) as I have demonstrated to numerous"experts"........and remember, the 3/4 scale dirt track Jalopy carsthat are running today are required to have drum brakes!

It really all boils down to thefriction co-efficient....anything greater than .49 will be what you really want. I would avoid Wagner, Raybestos.

With regards to brake linings in general,

Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but can bevery dirty depending on the lining selected compared to OEM.

Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg fromvery low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's notproviding any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real uglyspontaneous, catestropihic failures)

VelveTouch lining- Used for manydecades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60ís (Ipersonally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960ís until brake liningproduction ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been thebuilder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30years and VT is now available again but in a very limited selection.

Bendix- TitaniuMetallicô II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I havenot personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brakelinings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oemupgrade/mild performance type brake lining. (if the Carbo linings are out of your financials, I would look at these!!!!!!!

CarboTech Engineering lining,which I have used for about 30+ years and been very happy on multiple full size(V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient,excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles beforereplacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.

I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best foryour application. Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite ratingof the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....thiswill drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts"right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you willfind the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 orgreater.

With regards to drums, everything (all brands) are made in china today (so just plan on having to have them re-machined) but, if you can afford it, order them through DCthat are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics- they will be as hard as stainless steel and the machine work will be excellent.

Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019
PONY Member
Travis98146's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 957
Even though a dual cylinder master cylinder would be a "safer" setup I don't think it would not get you into the "non-modified" car show.
Travis98146 is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
BubbaG's Avatar
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 13
MRobbins, at MCA (Mustang Club of America) shows the 1967 Mustang dual bowl master cylinder upgrade in allowed (no deductions) in Concours Driven class. It would have a deduction in the straight Concours class.

Failure is only the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. H. Ford

1966 A code 4sp Fastback
1976 302 4sp Coupe
1986 351 C4 Hatchback
1990 GT Convertible
2008 GT Convertible
2011 F100 XLT
BubbaG is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1