1965 Drum Brakes Restoration - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019 Thread Starter
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1965 Drum Brakes Restoration

My 65 A code with 4 speed manual has 4 wheel drums. Currently, one wheel has a brake line leak so I plan to fix. However, I do want to take this opportunity to overhaul the entire braking system and upgrade where financially feasible. I am also cognizant that eventually I plan to restore the car for original non-modified status car shows. Based on these two points, upgrading to front discs is out.

The master cylinder is the original small single one. Any recommendations on what to change this to?

Also, brake line ideas? I plan to replace them all. Better to buy pre made or make yourself?

Lastly, Any recommended source for concours 1965 Mustang brake supplies?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019
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Is the one leak the only issue? Drum brakes are fairly simple to work on. If your stock lines are in good shape leave them alone just replace all the rubber ones. You can buy rebuild kits for wheel cylinders and the master cylinder.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019 Thread Starter
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Yes, leak is on one wheel (rear) and master cylinder seems to be leaking.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019
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I know you said stay original but dual resevoir master is safer . 65 and 66 only came single resevoir , so you can use a 67 drum brake dual res. master but must use pushrod from your original . I did this on my 66 drumbrake stang , no problems .
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019
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I would install a remanufactured master and wheel cylinder, save the originals for rebuild later. You can get the parts through your local parts store or any of the internet parts suppliers. If the shoes were saturated replace them as a set for both rear wheels.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019
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Complete new wheel cylinders are so cheap today at NAPA I quit trying to rebuild the old ones. Half the time the cylinder bore is pitted and the 'rebuild' is short lived. New ones avoid a lot of hassle at nearly the same cost. Just make sure you get ones with the correct cylinder ID. The modern parts books don't always accurately list the size changes that happened over the years.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019
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I completely agree with your objectives...and drum brakes can be very effective systems. With that said, let me provide the following recommendations.....

With regards to the master brake cylinder, although the oem (jelly jar/ie single bowl) is a very well designed component, upgrading to a duel bowl cylinder does increase the safety aspect in the event of failure. the 1974 Maverick V8 has a duel bowl master brake cylinder, came in both manual & power drum/drum & disc/drum brake configurations and the size/weight/brake system is identical to the 65/66 mustangs....a very common mod back in the 70's and 80's....and is IMHO, a "good thing". Of course it is always best IMHO to buy from a local vendor..... but NAPA is typically always a good supplier as is
WhitePost Restorations, One Old Car Drive POD White Post, Virginia , 540-837-1140. Another excellent supplier for wheel cylinders is
BrakePerformance,
9424 Eton Ave. #I,J,K, Chatsworth, CA 91311 866-756-5536 818-772-5540. I would avoid like the plague the "chain auto part stores" as most of their components are junk IMHO.....unless you need a component to rebuild...then they are a good cheap source.


The replacementlinings at most parts houses (for shoes/drums) have a braking co-efficient of around .25, that isabout 50% less than what the oem called for in the 60's (which was .32 orbetter, most offered .38 replacement linings). Going back to the 70's andthrough today, linings rated at .49 or better are common and typically sell foraround $200-$240 a set. longevity, typically 50k to 100k (miles) depends onyour foot. Braking capability, every bit as good as oem grade disc brakes(noticed I said oem grade) as I have demonstrated to numerous"experts"........and remember, the 3/4 scale dirt track Jalopy carsthat are running today are required to have drum brakes!

It really all boils down to thefriction co-efficient....anything greater than .49 will be what you really want. I would avoid Wagner, Raybestos.

With regards to brake linings in general,

Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but can bevery dirty depending on the lining selected compared to OEM.

Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg fromvery low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's notproviding any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real uglyspontaneous, catestropihic failures)

VelveTouch lining- Used for manydecades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60ís (Ipersonally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960ís until brake liningproduction ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been thebuilder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30years and VT is now available again but in a very limited selection.

Bendix- TitaniuMetallicô II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I havenot personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brakelinings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oemupgrade/mild performance type brake lining. (if the Carbo linings are out of your financials, I would look at these!!!!!!!


CarboTech Engineering lining,which I have used for about 30+ years and been very happy on multiple full size(V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient,excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles beforereplacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.

I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best foryour application. Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite ratingof the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....thiswill drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts"right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you willfind the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 orgreater.

With regards to drums, everything (all brands) are made in china today (so just plan on having to have them re-machined) but, if you can afford it, order them through DCthat are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics- they will be as hard as stainless steel and the machine work will be excellent.














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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019
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Even though a dual cylinder master cylinder would be a "safer" setup I don't think it would not get you into the "non-modified" car show.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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MRobbins, at MCA (Mustang Club of America) shows the 1967 Mustang dual bowl master cylinder upgrade in allowed (no deductions) in Concours Driven class. It would have a deduction in the straight Concours class.

Failure is only the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. H. Ford

1966 A code 4sp Fastback
1976 302 4sp Coupe
1986 351 C4 Hatchback
1990 GT Convertible
2008 GT Convertible
2011 F100 XLT
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