Electric Choke Wiring - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Question Electric Choke Wiring

I'm replacing my carb with a new one that has an electric choke. Attached is how I wired it. Will this work? Also, what do I do with the old choke tube and hole?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Good diagram but some ambiguity. Pin 85 should be ground. Pin 30 should be constant battery voltage. Pin 86 should be 12 volts with the ignition switch at the RUN position. What you have is probably OK.

Toss the old parts on a legacy box. The "hole" that you are referring to is probably on the exhaust manifold for the heat tube? It can be abandoned.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Why use a relay at all? The choke needs constant power for the heater that opens the choke. Just run one wire to the choke from anything that is powered with the ignition switch turned on. If you want a fuse then put the fuse in that single wire. It will be a lot simpler with nothing to fail or wire wrong.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Ivy is dead on. When in doubt, Keep It Simple. Electric chokes have been operational for years without a relay (and usually without a fuse).
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Exactly as above one power wire from solenoid and just earth the other wire earthed to the carby or strut brace.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I want the choke to be pulling power ONLY when the engine is running. That's why I wired it to the STA terminal on the alternator instead of the bat side of the starter solenoid or the heater motor 12v wire. This is also why I used a relay, because I think the STA post has <12v output, so it's good enough to close the circuit in the relay to then deliver 12v from the battery to the carb. If my logic doesn't make any sense please let me know, I'm not very good with electronics and recently I'm having issues with my entire headlight harness now so I'm pretty impatient with electronics at the moment.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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By taking out the relay and doing as suggested above it should only receive power when the starter solenoid is activated (engine running). It's going to work either way but without the relay, IMO, there is less things to fail later. Just an observation :-)

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I recently installed a new Holley Brawler 600 CFM carb on my 1968 Mustang 302. The shop that installed my rebuilt engine put that carb on and wired the electric choke to the starter solenoid. In a matter of days after getting it back it started running very poorly. That is when I discovered the choke plate was not opening properly and how he had wired it up. Too much fuel, too little oxygen fouled the plugs and got gas into the oil. I rewired it to the heater fan fuse using one of those fuse splicers. Fixed the problem. I also replaced the new but now fouled plugs and changed the oil and filter. I have an appointment to take it to someone that knows what a carb is in the spring. The fellow I am taking it to is who I got the carb from, The Carb Shop in White Bear, MN. Pat Ott, the owner, asked me when I bought the carb why I wanted an Electric choke. Asked me if I drive in the winter which I don't. In hindsight he was right. It ran fine before on the old Holley with the old tube setup. Just added another level of complication that really wasn't necessary.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I installed one on my 66 factory carburetor that I bought on ebay. I installed the wire to the terminal on the alternator that was not being used for anything. Works great!
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