2.77 rear seal replacement - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020 Thread Starter
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2.77 rear seal replacement

Hello,


Am replacing the trans rear seal. Any experienced advice would be very much appreciated. Best method without special tools.



I have the driveshaft out and am wondering if the bushing should also be replaced along with the seal? That would require a special tool, wouldn't it? Studying the fig.4 Transmission Disassembled in the 1966 Ford Shop Manual for the 2.77 trans that output shaft seems to be like a lot of people I know. No visible means of support. I suppose the bearing way back in the case does that.


Thank you anyone and everyone that reads and or responds to these query's.


1966 Coupe
200 ci 6 cyl
3 speed man
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020
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In short...if it's not broke don't fix it......the seal is very simple to remove & replace...Ö just make sure you either have a seal/bearing install tool or you can use a block of wood and a hammer....making sure it goes in evenly.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020 Thread Starter
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Hello BK,

I guess it will be the old screwdriver method of removal. I tried rotating it with a large pair of channel lock pliers and it just laughed at me. I think I will try drilling 1/8" holes 180deg opposite in the protruding sides of the seal and drive some med size screwdrivers in and prying out.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020
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You can get pretty serious with it. I don't know that hole-drilling will help, as that will just allow the possibility of getting metal bits in places you don't want, but don't be afraid to tear up the seal as you pull it out. A big old screwdriver and hammer usually works pretty well to get its attention. Just try not to booger up the surface it mates to, and ensure that you're only getting the seal itself.


The channel-lock pliers are a good idea, once you have something to hang on to. Rotating won't work. But bending the seal inward as you pry it out, will.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020 Thread Starter
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I am beginning to think this is not the seal. Well I really don't know what it is but it will not budge. As much as I hate to show my stupidity I am going to attach a picture of the mess I am making. What I would like to know is is this the seal? Or not. I am going to make a puller at work tomorrow to hopefully pull this out by what is left of the flange, but I don't hold much hope.
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1966 Coupe
200 ci 6 cyl
3 speed man
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020
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That sure looks like the seal to me. It may have been installed with some 'glue' which is working too well.

For installation of a new seal I would select a socket of the proper size to use as a 'pusher'. The OD of the socket should be just a bit smaller than the OD of the seal. That will spread the hammer force you will be using around the circumference of the seal which minimizes the chance of damaging the seal. You have to make sure before you start that the socket is deep enough to not ding up the output shaft in the process. The goal is that as you drive the seal into place the shaft will just go further and further into the open socket.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020 Thread Starter
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Will do. Hopefully I will get this thing out this afternoon.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020
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They can sometimes be a real pain....as if they were "welded" in...Ö.. worst case scenario....get some 3/8" wide flatbar steel and make like a mini gear puller.... with a slide hammer attached, it will help it or you can always buy a rear seal puller which looks like a mini gear puller/slide hammer.


https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...jaxhist=0&vt=0

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020 Thread Starter
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Got it out last night but don't think I'm done yet. This kinda looks broke but what is it, other than a hole. Is it very thin metal, plastic? I suppose the thin metal piece inside that is the bushing? Does all this come out easily? Everything I did was from the outside, don''t know if this was already there or what. It looks pretty fragile there.

As always any good direction is very much appreciated.
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1966 Coupe
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Buy this and keep it with your shop tools


or even



If you don't want to buy one, go to a parts store and barrow one (refundable deposit required).
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020 Thread Starter
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Nice kit, good price but I usually use a short piece of pvc pipe of the proper diameter to replace. In this case 1.5 in id pvc works good particularly because of the shaft protruding thru the seal.
I am still hoping someone will chime in on that hole in my previous attached picture of the tailshaft with seal removed. It looks to me like the new seal will hold back any oil at that point. It is surprising, to me anyway, that that is hollow there. But it is what it is and I would be very interested for someone with some experience of this seal and bushing to give a thumbs up or down to installing the new seal as is.
The shaft doesn't have any scars or scores indicating I suppose that the bushing is ok.

Thanks for your input, Bobby

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I haven't worked on that model of transmission, but in the end, all tailshafts sort of work out to be the same thing: the shaft inside is supported on the far end pretty well, and just passes through without touching anything until it gets to the driveshaft. Since the driveshaft is the only part touching the tailshaft seal, it doesn't matter if things are pretty inside there, really, so long as the tailshaft's not bent and the splines aren't damaged. Once the seal's in place and the new driveshaft goes in, all will be well.


Sounds like yours was a real wooly booger to get out! Well done.

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The bushing looks fine especially since you said the driveshaft isnít scratched up. Yes some of those seals were tough to get out. The new seal looks like itís painted but that is actually glue. It heats up when you pound it in due to friction and glues itself in place. Make sure you lube the new seal. 80w90 or Vaseline. Iíve probably replaced 100 or more rear transmission seals. I was an auto mechanic for 25 years and had my own shop for 15 years.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Thank You All for Your Advice and Knowledge,


So I smeared some Permatex on the back side of the new seal where it contacts that hole and drove it in. I have only put maybe 5 miles on it since and there have been no more drips. Hope it stays that way. I fully meant to coat the seal viton or whatever it is with some oil, but I think I forgot. Or maybe I did and forgot that.


Thanks again

1966 Coupe
200 ci 6 cyl
3 speed man
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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That original seal was a Chicago Rawhide and THE toughest seal I have ever had to remove! One in a 4 speed took me WELL over an hour to remove! I have been doing toploaders for 55 years ( since they first came out) and that darned seal has always been a pain. I used to replace them with the seal for a C4 as it had a flange. Glad you got it out and replaced.


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