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Broken Cross Member Bolt

3K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  chasmalo 
#1 ·
Since my introduction I've been working on removing a broken cross member bolt in my 66 Mustang. Tried drilling it out with no luck and using left handed drill bit also with no luck.
 

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#8 ·
Been spraying penetrating oils on it daily for about 2 weeks
 
#11 ·
I've tried using heat along with penetrating oil with no luck yet but still working on it.
 
#6 ·
If you haven't tried it, you might get an Easy Out and work it over with that, in addition to some heat. You don't have to drill out the whole bolt, just a centered hole in the end of it, for the tool to grip. They work pretty well!
 
#10 ·
I haven't tried a ez out yet but I have tried several left had drill bits and they have not worked.
 
#7 ·
Try drilling ant tapping another bolt inside and if possible, tighten the bolt out if it is a through bolt.
If not just weld the new bolt to the broken one and use a socket set wrench to remove after drowning the old bolt in WD40 or similar.
 
#12 ·
Drill bits are too brittle. You can make a hole with one, but it's not going to unscrew something until you're probably in the threads already. An Easy Out grabs the metal that's left, digs in, and hangs on. Combined with the heat and penetrating oil it's probably the most likely way to get it out.


I have seen someone weld down through a nut to the top of a bolt like this and get it out too, but that's pretty chancy.
 
#13 ·
You need to get a couple of really good drill bits. Getting the hole in the center is the most important thing, so use a pointed punch. The hole and the removal tool must be matched for size, EZ Outs come in many sizes. This is a fairly large bolt, so think bigger.


You mentioned left handed drills several times, they will not remove your bolt. They just drill a hole rotating the other way of almost all drill bits. If you drill and then tap it with a left hand thread, that is different.
 
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#16 ·
Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions and I did try some of them but nothing seemed to worked so I decided to go a different route. I marked out a section on the outer frame rail that is inline with the broken bolt and marked out a section to be cut out and drilled some pilot holes to make the cut. Using a body saw and a 3 inch cut off wheel made the cut.
 

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#20 ·
Most definitely
 
#21 ·
While waiting on the new cross member bolts to come in I test mounted the cross member with the bolt from the other side to determine the best way to attach the nut to the frame rail, with the nut on top of a washer or in the pocket. After trying to mount it with the nut on top of the washer and the nut in the pocket of the frame rail it appears that mounting it in the pocket is the best option.



Just waiting on the new bolts to come in
 
#24 ·
Well I got my engine cross member bolts in last week and mounted the cross member before welding the nut in to be sure everything was a good fit.
Floor


Auto part

After installing the cross member welded the nut to the frame rail




Removed the bolt and put a good coat of never seize on it and reinstalled. It's not the prettiest weld but I torqued it to 50 ft lbs. several times before a final torque of 60 ft lbs with no problems or breaks. This is what it looks like after welding the plate back in.
Auto part Engine Pipe Suspension Vehicle
 
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#26 ·
Thanks Charles Reeves
 
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