Joined: Nov 2016
Just a couple things to help out: Mushy brakes = air in the lines, or hoses flexing/leaking.
Hard brakes (excessive pedal pressure required to stop the car) can be a problem with master cylinder diameter, or booster problem. Bigger MC diameter = more pressure required to stop, and less pedal travel. Smaller = stops easier, but requires more pedal travel.
Is the 'loop' on the end of the master cylinder rod straight out, or curved down? On the earlier cars, the loop hangs 'down' to achieve proper angle with the brake pedal. Using a 'straight out' loop puts things in a bind, so you can never get proper braking, and can actually damage things. Another issue that can crop up is trying to use a manual brake pedal with a power booster setup. All of these angles and relationships should be taken into account for the conversion kit you bought, hopefully.
The bleeds for brakes are always at the top. This is so air bubbles (which will obviously float in brake fluid) can get out. Sometimes instructions for installation don't make this clear, and things get installed upside down, trapping a nice big bubble of air in the piston chamber(s), no matter how much bleeding you do. Of the brake fluid. If you're bleeding personally, you are probably doing it wrong.
Brake pads matter. A lot of times, even a good set of brakes get sold with cheap, crummy pads that have a low friction coefficient. A set of good pads will make a tremendous difference. Avoid full on race/metallic pads because they don't work very well until they get pretty hot, and that should not normally occur while tooting around town.
Hope this helps!
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