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1964 1/2 mustang won't start

4K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  Marlyn 
#1 ·
I have a starting problem with my 1964 1/2 mustang. The starter turns over but the car won't start. It is getting gas. I've done a tune up on it with new spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and starter solenoid (I tried 3 different coils too). There is power getting to the coil, but no spark coming out of the high tension lead from the coil. I even pull out the protonix ignitor and put the points back in but no spark. This all started about two weeks ago when I was driving the car and noticed the car had no power when accelerating. I checked the timing and then this happened that the car wouldn't start. Is there anything else I could inspect like maybe the ignition switch etc?

Thank you,
 
#3 ·
Chck to make sure the rotor is turning and also, some of the rotors are not built to spec and do not fit all the way down on the shaft which when you initially try to start the engine, causes the rotor to hit the electrodes inside the cap, breaking off the inside part of the rotor where it connects to the shaft making it not rotate.
 
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#7 · (Edited)
Grimbrand has a "point", if you go back to points and still no spark, then that rules out the pertronix, then it could be distributor, something mechanical (something not turning over/spinning distributor) or electrical. (bad points maybe?) Lobe not pulsing points open/closed?

Forgot to mention; will engine even crank over?
I had a '71 stang that wouldn't crank, was missing a ground strap on that one. Use jumper cables for a ground on batt negative to frame to test.

if yes, cranks but no start...keep reading.

also, I've gotten used to testing with starting ether/spray, if spark is ever in question, anything i've ever tried always (if getting spark) will kickoff with starting ether. If ether wont start, then spark can be questioned.

You could pull a spark plug, ground it, crank engine and manually look for spark but be careful you could get zapped this way, (on lawnmowers it's not so bad) but they make a tool to hold on the spark
plug wire too to check for spark i believe.

if you try starting spray and no ignition, then process of elimination to find the culprit. I have a chiltons manual somewhere that runs you thru things to eliminate, maybe could google those...

Also I had a pertronix ignitor II installed on my '66 and after 3 years it failed, was found to be using the points hot wire for power, which was 3.5v and needed 12volts. I bought a new one got their
relay kit and used the 3.5v points power wire as the trigger for the relay and pulled 12v directly from the battery. That fixed my issue, to be honest the instructions were so "to the point" it was confusing
on the first install (I had a county mechanic / drag racer buddy do the install, figured he knows how right?) well it fooled him too, took me some digging to get it right the 2nd time.

let us know how it goes and good luck!

T
 
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#12 ·
If you have power to the coil and no spark from the high tension wire, do as Beechkid said and make sure your rotor is turning when you crank the engine. If you're getting power to the coil, then your ignition switch is doing it's job. Other than the Petronix, what modifications do you have? Check to see if you have power to the coil with the key in the "start" position. Power in run and start, then look at your distributor parts: cap, rotor, points & condenser.
 
#15 ·
I agree with 1966. Check the positive to the Coil first. I believe it’s 5v or put a indicator light tester to it and see if it lights up(clip end to ground). If you have a light then you have power to the coil. If not, chase wire to connector on the firewall (ensure wire-bundle secured) or fuse. Once power is established to coil, with points and switch in “ON” position put screwdriver between points to see if it arcs? If arcs, then coil is good set points to .014-.016 and if it doesn’t arc - coil is bad. Next, put engine to TDC for #1, move timing back to 10 BTDC. Leave switch on, make sure Cap & wires are Secured correctly and put spark Plug on #1 wire (it shouldn’t be installed on cylinder yet. Ground plug and turn distributor till you see spark On plug and stop. Tighten distributor, re-install spark plug #1 cylinder, reconnect wire to plug. Start your Engine! If this doesn’t work shoot me an email.
 
#17 ·
the car is running! It turned out that the Protonixs had burned out and the points had the plastic piece in the points melt. The Protonix lasted 3 1/2 years (just passed the warranty).
The car now has new points and condenser (from AutoZone). I thank my friend Cory (he is a auto mechanic) for finding out the problem.
 
#18 ·
hey 64must,

Glad you got it running, now i'm curious, as I had the same thing happen to my 66' Gt many years back. Figure out the power lead for the pertronix that was used,
check and see if it's not 12v, that probably was the cause. As on my car, we used the points power wire to originally run the pertronix, it worked for about 3 1/2 years,
after it failed and I got some help on troubleshooting the pertronix, found out it was only getting 3.5v approximately due to the resistor
wire inline to keep from burning the points.
On my 2nd install of the pertronix ii, I used that wire and pertronix's relay kit, pulled 12v straight from battery this time, so far it's been fine, defiantly a lesson learned.
Hope all stays good!
T
 
#19 ·
I had problems like that with a 'rebuilt' 260. I did not replace all the little things - like the PCV valve.
It was frozen open - could not suck gas to match all that extra air, was just a little short of being rich enough to make fire.
Like you, I could see spark, timing checked out and gas squirting from accel. pump.
I put a little gas in a plastic bottle cap - dumped it down its' throat in while cranking and got a clue.
 
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