5" waterpump bolt (Ford 289) head broke off and frozen in waterpump - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006 Thread Starter
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5" waterpump bolt (Ford 289) head broke off and frozen in waterpump

I have a 66 Mustang built in Feb. of '66 with a 289. First I removed the valve covers to find the heads stamped 65. Is it a 65 motor or did they run that far into the next year with last years parts?
Also, when removing the waterpump, there is a one 5" long bolt and the head broke off of it. It was frozen in the waterpump. I had to drill and chizel the waterpump to get the pump off the bolt. Now that I have the pump off, I have a couple of inches of the bolt sticking out of the timing cover. Once again tried to turn it after tapping on it and spraying it with penetrating oil and it broke off in the timing cover. It seems to be frozen in the timing cover as well. My next step will most likely be drilling and chizeling the timing cover off of the bolt and then it may break off in the block. Right now I am stuck at this point with the bolt broke and flush with the timing cover. Any suggestions before I continue this destructive path?

One more question. When removing the distributor, the oil pump rod came up with the distributor and then dropped back in the hole. I am going to try to get the rod out with a magnet. Will I have a problem re-installing the distributor and rod? And is this normal with Ford? I have never experienced this with Chevy motors

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006
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Numbers and dates

Its not unlikley that your 66 stang had a motor with parts built in 65.

You can try an easyout after drilling a hole in the stub, but it surely does sound like its frozen in the block. I like to put anti-seize on these bolts for this very reason.

If you're lucky, you should be able to fish the rod out, though I'd plan on replacing it anyway. I've had rods break off in Chevys and Fords; wear out so they no longer worked; and even get turned and jammed up so you couldn't get them out without dropping the pan. The fact that it stuck to the distributor indicates either it or the distributor is worn pretty bad, or has a lot of carbon (technical term: crud) built up on it.

I'm assuming you've tried penetrating oil on the broken-off bolt... It helps to tap it every few minutes, reapply more oil, etc. Overnight helps the oil work, too.

Sounds like you're having a bad day

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarccrazy
I have a 66 Mustang built in Feb. of '66 with a 289. First I removed the valve covers to find the heads stamped 65. Is it a 65 motor or did they run that far into the next year with last years parts?
Also, when removing the waterpump, there is a one 5" long bolt and the head broke off of it. It was frozen in the waterpump. I had to drill and chizel the waterpump to get the pump off the bolt. Now that I have the pump off, I have a couple of inches of the bolt sticking out of the timing cover. Once again tried to turn it after tapping on it and spraying it with penetrating oil and it broke off in the timing cover. It seems to be frozen in the timing cover as well. My next step will most likely be drilling and chizeling the timing cover off of the bolt and then it may break off in the block. Right now I am stuck at this point with the bolt broke and flush with the timing cover. Any suggestions before I continue this destructive path?

One more question. When removing the distributor, the oil pump rod came up with the distributor and then dropped back in the hole. I am going to try to get the rod out with a magnet. Will I have a problem re-installing the distributor and rod? And is this normal with Ford? I have never experienced this with Chevy motors



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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006
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I had the same problem on my '94 GT a couple years ago. I tried everything to get it out, but nothing worked. I had some of the bolt still sticking out though, and welded a bolt to the end of the broken bolt and used it to turn the stuck bolt out. I think the heat of welding also helped loosen it from being stuck in the timing cover and/or block too. But, if you don't have any bolt sticking out this method of bolt removal will not be possible. Good luck.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-24-2006
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those bolts can be a PITA you could try an easy out & heat

The oil pump drive shaft should have a little clip to prevent it being with drawn from the oil pump if it does come out you will have to be very luck or paitient to get it back in without droping the sump .

I replaced mine with a ARP one with 3/8 shaft steped down at each endwith the clip on it can't be pulled out (also much stronger)

Wimblton white 66 coupe C code 289 auto
97 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 auto, lift ,winch,33's etc
04 Holden VY SS 5.7 auto (wifes)
88 KLR 250

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Please feel free to ignor all advice/information offered
I could be wrong...... I have been before.
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