Improve Your Reaction Time.... - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forum
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05mustangdriver's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: hanahan
Posts: 200
i find clicking it when the last yellow light comes on that i get the best time.

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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Greensboro
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So im going to the track this friday and i have no idea what to do lol..ive raced on the streets like at stop lights but after ive stop at a stop like i hold the clutch in, rev to like 3 because i dont want tire spin but then i start to roll a tad bit..will that kill your run at the track cause if so i gotta make sure i dont roll.

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Elettra14's Avatar
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: california
Posts: 3
A .12, but mainly was in the .15 to .18 area. Must be the hand eye co-ordination built up from years of video games. And my parents said that experience wasn't good for anything!

Just found that if I maximize the screen I get a quicker reaction time. It looks like the screen takes longer to "paint", and the color change "paints" from the top to the bottom. It seems that the timer doesn't start until the whole screen changes color. If I press the stop when the top of the screen starts to change color then I can get consistent times in the 0.09 range. Perhaps those of us with slower times just have faster video cards?
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: folsom
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i managed is my best

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JimInNY's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Glenville
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Maybe I'm just old or something, but last time I raced (early 80s) my RTs were like .125 - .250. With this simulator, I red light every time. lol
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Vegasboricua702's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: North Las Vegas
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Went to the las Vegas motor speedway last night. It was my first time ever drag racing and my best r/t was .303 with a 2.2 60ft and 14.75 1/4 mile. On my 2012 v6 pp with an AIRAID. Is that good?

2012 Mustang V6// Race Red // Performance Package // Roush Axleback // AIRAID Intake // Retro White Ball Shifter // Eibach Springs// Tinted Tail lights // Black Deck lid panel // 8,000K HID's //
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14.75 seems a little high for a performance package car
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Houston
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This is sweet! I spent 10 minutes doing it.
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Hotrodpepere's Avatar
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Taftville
Posts: 88
Played with these for a while. Sportsman best.513, pro .419. Seems funny these still use old style RT's as NHRA has stopped adding the .5 and .4 and .000 is a perfect light as opposed to .500 and .400 being perfect light. Lot's of fun though. Now if I could get car to react that fast.
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Zer0xChan's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Vacaville
Posts: 55
The couple times I've been out my normal reaction time seemed to be around 0.3 though at a track I can't visit anymore since I was temporarily assigned to a different base for a couple months when I went.

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I like the pro tree better.
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Gt350HR's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2016
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 348
If you can't redlight on a pro tree, you might consider deep staging ( if allowed). This will hurt the ET slip by as much as a tenth , but in a bracket race , it's all about the reaction time. Why it hurts the ET and helps the reaction time is simple. less roll out so the staging beam is broken sooner/ Your car is till running the same , it just has less of a running start so to speak. Drive by wire cars are THE hardest to cut lights with. Your foot hits the floor and the computer is still playing catch up. Hard leaving (1.40 or lower 60' times) sometimes need "delay boxes" so drivers don't redlight. It's also harder to redlight with a car that has allot of front end travel as it's going up instead of out.
Just a few observations from 50 years of doing it.
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