To link or not to link?????? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012 Thread Starter
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To link or not to link??????

I am currently up grading a 1991 stang with a 521 CID engine around 700 to 850 depending on how far I take my heads... anyways.. I have fabbed my own sub frame connectors (major headache) and installed a roll cage, mini tubs Now I have to narrow the rear end for tire to fit rear wheel wells.. soooooo as long as I am modding that area... Do I go all the way and 4 link it or will the factory style attachment still work...I have already got coilovers installed, yes I have welded/re-enforced my torque boxes.... before they had an issue... started with great platform... if anyone has CONSTRUCTIVE answers or helpful advice it would be greatly appreciated.......




91 LX chassis, 521 CID big block, 3.5 mufflers just off headers, 3.73.1 ring and pinion, 10 pt cage, custom made thru the floor sub frame connectors, with custom made dash and other parts.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012
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This correlates with the other thread (spring size clearance). Don't have to really narrow the axles. Buy rear to fit your application unless you all ready have the rear end. Then be good at welding.

Only time have to narrow is when going fully tubbed. IMO not needed. Mini tubbed and your good to go.


93' LX hatch, 460 w/150 plate, TH400, 9" w/ 3.60 spool. Best (so far!) of [email protected] 146 mph with 1.40 spinning 60' on steel heads
Reese,
Been saying single digit coming for 3 years.....guess I finally made it!
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012
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What type car are you building? Bracket car, class car, outlaw, street car.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012 Thread Starter
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my little nightmare.

If all goes well it will be a street class we are struggling with the rear end.... I am going to run 15x12 6.5BS prostars with MT 315/60/15. I am tucking all into wheel well. that is what I am aiming for... and yes I already have a housing... and heck no I am not welding it myself...LOL I have seen the process... no thank you.. I will pay that fella in Baytown tx to do it.. they are great at it.. I just have to fit the rubber under car then measure... this has turned out to be a LONGGGGGG project..ugggg

91 LX chassis, 521 CID big block, 3.5 mufflers just off headers, 3.73.1 ring and pinion, 10 pt cage, custom made thru the floor sub frame connectors, with custom made dash and other parts.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012 Thread Starter
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well ended up cutting 10" off the 8.8 after having to aquire a new housing seems the idiot that owned the car before me.... twisted pass side tube... then had new spot welds in those four holes and EPOXIED THE DAMN TUBE to stop the leak....UgGGGGG lol anyways I had pyle brothers narrow it.. pricey but wow what service... I would recamend them to everyone....I am going with a different gear than I posted.... I am using a 3.73 and a spool.... after doing math the original gear I thought I would use was WAYYY to much.. for this engine... now I have to decide to 4 link or reattach the factory style set up.... I am leaning towards four link.... if I can figure out how to attach them to my torque box...

91 LX chassis, 521 CID big block, 3.5 mufflers just off headers, 3.73.1 ring and pinion, 10 pt cage, custom made thru the floor sub frame connectors, with custom made dash and other parts.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012
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Left you a text (hope I had the correct number). 4 link not necessary for our cars either. Stock style with good adjustable lower and upper control arms. Reinforce the torque boxes. Relocatate coil overs to the center. Still considered stock style.....rule book allows but they make you add a couple pounds for that mod in pro competition.

93' LX hatch, 460 w/150 plate, TH400, 9" w/ 3.60 spool. Best (so far!) of [email protected] 146 mph with 1.40 spinning 60' on steel heads
Reese,
Been saying single digit coming for 3 years.....guess I finally made it!
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