Cutting a light - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Cutting a light

Whats your procedure for cutting a good light? I have a 100% stock 2014 GT automatic. Only addition is drag radials. All Advance Trac and Traction control is off. Have tried going Deep and not. I'm either red or late. By leaving off of 2nd amber going off (not going Deep) I ran .143,.137,.141 and.130. So the grouping is good. But if I move to 2nd amber coming on I'm red. I'm sure Ill figure it out but looking for suggestions to perhaps speed up the process.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014
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I take it that your bracket racing. What are your groupings (red) going shallow on the 2nd amber? Your groupings are good all we have to do is figure out how to change the car. Are you going off idle or footbreaking at a certain rpm? What front and rear air pressure? Stock front tires?

My setting were 20lbs air all 4 tires, shallow stage, off idle, 2nd gear, on the flash of the 2nd amber. Really good air I had to stagger stage on the starting line to increase rollout to keep green.


'07 Mustang GT 4.6 Auto C&L cold air, 3.73 gears, Diablo tune, and MT drag radials.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2014 Thread Starter
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.080-.090 when red. Stalling around 16-1700 rpm. Moroso front runner tires 26X17" 32# front,20# rear M.T. 325/50/15. You mentioned 2nd gear. You have a manual trans? Thanks
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2014
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I had an auto. Traded the mustang this past December.

Just to check you are using the second amber.

I think if you go deep (just turn off the prestage bulb) off the 2nd amber flash should put you .010 or so with your current settings (air lbs and launch rpm)

Ballpark estimate deep staging betters your lights by .100 and increased ET by the same. 100 increase in RPM quickens RT by .010 (opposite is true) Front tire pressues have little to no effect on a deep staged car. Rear tire pressues depends on the car. More rear air pressue the quicker the RT. In the mustang (drag radials) it took 10lbs of air to change .010 RT. QTP tires on the firebird yield 1lb to .010 RT.

Gives you something to try.

'07 Mustang GT 4.6 Auto C&L cold air, 3.73 gears, Diablo tune, and MT drag radials.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2014
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I will tell you what I was told my a couple of professional drivers at a recent Mello Yellow Event - For a car with a manul transmission and no electronics RT is one of the toughest things to control - Being consistent with your rpm launch and staging is critical. Also each day at the track can be different based on weather and track conditions. I have finally after a lot of work got my RT in the .05 area but even a small error in staging, launch rpm or traction and back to the .1.
Advice I was given by the pros - enjoy the run and if you get a .00 something without electroncis - celebrate because they will be few and far between
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014
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If you are racing mostly for fun, get a lot of pratice. People who are good on the tree didn't get that way overnight. Several years, racing every week, some with 2 cars and I am talking about footbrakers not stick racers. It is even harder for stick racers. The kind of drivers I am talking about will race their footbrake cars in the Top ET/ Super Pro classes and do well. But when they first started, they took their lumps, which is what you are doing now. If you want to race for mostly money, get a Power Glide with transbrake and a good delay box. You will take your lumps with those too, for a while It is hard to beat experienced drivers, so get experienced. That is how to cut a good light.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014
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practice

PRACTICE-PRACTICE-PRACTICE you need to get to know your car. Is it possible to cut double 00 lites with a foot brake car? absolutely! but it takes time to get things consistent. Keep a log book of each run, how you did it what the weather was like pressures, temps etc. You will start to see a pattern after a while. A simple shift lite can really help (I like Raptor 2 step) it lets you focus on the track rather than the tach. Just remember if you change something on the car it will effect the track times.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for everyones advice!
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014
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Let us know how you make out. Good luck and good hunting.

'07 Mustang GT 4.6 Auto C&L cold air, 3.73 gears, Diablo tune, and MT drag radials.
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Advice...

I would add one other thing. Get to know a stock eliminator owner who runs a stick car. Those guys have made improvements that I am not going to get into here. They are for the most part willing to let you look and ask questions regarding line-locks, 2-step module set ups and how they use them for launch control. I have just completed the same process and boy did I go to school! I had to travel 85 miles one way to take on such training but it is worth it. Good Luck...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blownpony View Post
I would add one other thing. Get to know a stock eliminator owner who runs a stick car. Those guys have made improvements that I am not going to get into here. They are for the most part willing to let you look and ask questions regarding line-locks, 2-step module set ups and how they use them for launch control. I have just completed the same process and boy did I go to school! I had to travel 85 miles one way to take on such training but it is worth it. Good Luck...
He's running a stock 2014 auto. No real need for a 2-step or even a line-lock. It can be set up to launch from idle so the "launch rpm" is always the same.

'07 Mustang GT 4.6 Auto C&L cold air, 3.73 gears, Diablo tune, and MT drag radials.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-30-2014 Thread Starter
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I have a line-loc. I like to heat the tires abit.
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Quote:
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I have a line-loc. I like to heat the tires abit.
You want to heat the tires not fry them. Long burnouts aren't necessary and wear the tires quicker. Burnouts should be done the exact same way every time to help with consistency. As soon as you feel the back of the car "squat" down the tries are good to go. When I feel that I let off the brakes and spin forward. Small burnout but effective and got 400-500 runs from a set of MT tires.

'07 Mustang GT 4.6 Auto C&L cold air, 3.73 gears, Diablo tune, and MT drag radials.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for everyones help.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodon View Post
Whats your procedure for cutting a good light? I have a 100% stock 2014 GT automatic. Only addition is drag radials. All Advance Trac and Traction control is off. Have tried going Deep and not. I'm either red or late. By leaving off of 2nd amber going off (not going Deep) I ran .143,.137,.141 and.130. So the grouping is good. But if I move to 2nd amber coming on I'm red. I'm sure Ill figure it out but looking for suggestions to perhaps speed up the process.
I have a 2013 GT automatic and leave when the last yellow comes on. Reaction times are usually .08 or so with a best (lucky) of .008. Seldom red light with this technique. I do not deep stage - tend to shallow stage a bit.

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