How best to launch Mustang with manual transmission? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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This is my video of me launching and i had to let off because it would not stop spinning. then when i shifted into second the ass end still kicked out. and chirped third. the best i could get last nnight was a 2.2 60' . Even the AWD guys couldnt stop spinning so i know it was partly track prep. When i street race i do not chirp 3rd. YouTube - 05 Mustang GT launch

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This is my video of me launching and i had to let off because it would not stop spinning. then when i shifted into second the ass end still kicked out. and chirped third. the best i could get last nnight was a 2.2 60' . Even the AWD guys couldnt stop spinning so i know it was partly track prep. When i street race i do not chirp 3rd. YouTube - 05 Mustang GT launch
Are you running street radials?
If you went in the water box, you dragged all that water up to the line with you. It looked like you where doing a burn out from the video.
Also , if you over heat street radials , they will actually get slippery, and that will make you spin like crazy.
Just drive around the water box and pre-stage and then stage if you are running street radials. You'll have better luck.


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Ok ill try that lol unless i can get some different tires before this weekend.
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I've never been to a drag strip and really want to. What exactly do you do with the clutch on a launch? Do you just dump it when you're holding your rpm?
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If you want to be the most consistent at the track with a manual transmission get a two-step rev limiter. You just push the gas pedal to the floor and as long as you have the clutch pushed in, the engine won't go past whatever RPM you set. As soon as you dump the clutch, the RPMs take off. They work great.

Don't use them with catalytic converters though or at least be real careful if you do. I use the MSD two-step controller fyi.

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This thread has suggestions for launching a vehicle with a manual tranny.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...-1-4-mile.html
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Launching a stick car on radials:

Feed it some RPM and slip the clutch to get the car moving without blowing off the tires. Once the car is rolling, simultaneously feed it more throttle and smoothly let out the clutch.

^^takes lots of practice


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I bring mine up to a certain RPM depending on the track, hold it, and then let the clutch go. I've driven sticks for years, including holding the national D/S record in a street tire (G70 15 Goodyear polyglass tires) 1969 AMC Rambler S/C back in the 1970 period and a Lenco transmission 83 GT that ran 8's in the quarter, and always left that way.

My problem now is not 1st gear. My problem is the car blows the tires off when I shift hard into second. I have to let off the accelerator and let the tires quit spinning, and that hurts. I don't know why this car is so bad at second gear. I run around 130+'s MPH but only around 11 flat ET's driving that way. I'm sure if I could hit second hard and keep it on the floor I'd gain MPH and a much better ET.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharad View Post
Launching a stick car on radials:

Feed it some RPM and slip the clutch to get the car moving without blowing off the tires. Once the car is rolling, simultaneously feed it more throttle and smoothly let out the clutch.

^^takes lots of practice
I personally wouldn't want to do it... that is why they make bias ply tires… But if you have no choice, then what you said.

I don't speak often but when I do, I don't have clue what I am talking about. I just repeat things that I once heard and do not repeat them correctly... My doctor told me it was an ID 10 T problem and it was incurable.
So when I reply to a post or add to a thread I just find the words elsewhere and copy and paste.
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I've run sticks all my life, and feathering a clutch will tear the s^%$ out of the clutch. I haven't had a clutch that will take slipping very many times before it screws up the flywheel, disk, or plate.

What you need to do is try different RPM's. Just let go of the clutch and stuff the gas to the floor. Feather the GAS if it spins too much at low RPM launch, NOT the clutch.

Tires and gear ratios make a huge difference. When I have slicks on my car, I launch at 5500 RPM and hold the gas on the floor. I hold it at 5000 or so, and just let the clutch go as fast as I can without side stepping the clutch. The car makes a bang and just jumps, the tires never spin. When I have ET Street drag radials, I launch at 2500 or so and push the gas part way to the floor until it gets rolling. I back out of the gas immediately when it starts to spin too much.

You'll get a feel for it, but you need to learn to modulate the throttle and NOT the clutch pedal. It takes a special clutch, and it is a lot of maintenance, to control power with a clutch. I had a clutch that would do that in a chassis car with a Lenco transmission, and the clutch required constant maintenance. I got sick of that pretty quick.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old man View Post
I've run sticks all my life...
^^On slicks, just dump the clutch and hope the drivetrain holds.

On radials, it's a different ballgame.

Interestingly enough, I've owned dozens of different Mustangs with different combos. I haven't destroyed a clutch since I was 17 years old. I'm 37 now. (had a bad habit of dumping the clutch in second while sitting still because it made huge smoky burnouts)

I launch my daily driver '06 GT as described above (clutch slip) and the factory clutch has nearly 135,000 miles on it.


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With a small enough engine, short enough transition time, big enough clutch, or low enough traction, modulating the clutch can certainly work. It can also easily tear a standard clutch up.

Of course pushing into the throttle works the same way, and doesn't convert excess horsepower to heat at the friction surfaces.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordEvangelist View Post
If you want to be the most consistent at the track with a manual transmission get a two-step rev limiter. You just push the gas pedal to the floor and as long as you have the clutch pushed in, the engine won't go past whatever RPM you set. As soon as you dump the clutch, the RPMs take off. They work great.

Don't use them with catalytic converters though or at least be real careful if you do. I use the MSD two-step controller fyi.
Has anyone tried the Bama race tune with the launch limiter?

It works basically like described above, but a little different . . . when the speed of the car is zero, it limits the RPM to the set number; as soon as the car starts moving, the speed goes above zero, and it allows full RPM / full throttle. Sounds pretty good to me . . .

Quote:
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I've run sticks all my life, and feathering a clutch will tear the s^%$ out of the clutch. I haven't had a clutch that will take slipping very many times before it screws up the flywheel, disk, or plate.
.
On a street car, EVERY time we get the car moving from a stop, we are slipping the clutch a little to make it smooth; otherwise we would be popping the clutch and doing burn-outs and/or snapping our passengers' necks all the time. So the clutch CAN take some slipping without failing immediately; I do understand your point, but I guess it is a matter of how much. If you want to keep the engine up in its powerband, and you want to engage the clutch without spinning the tires and also without bogging the engine, there is no way to do it except slip the clutch a little.

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