Took my '11 GT to the track for the first time... - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016 Thread Starter
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Question Took my '11 GT to the track for the first time...

Looking to get some ideas on how I did. I went in with a 12 in mind, seeing as how they are capable stock and i consider myself to be a decent driver (but still new to the car)

Temps were in the low 80s to mid 70s by night end. The car is a 6 speed, 3.31 gears and absolutely stock except for 275/40/18 Nitto extreme performance nt555 (street radials).

I made 10 passes and was extremely consistent. only one or two runs did i spin on the launch. However these cars are a lot different to launch than my old pushrod 5.0 was with 3.73s and bolt ons.

My best stats for the night:
best 60 2.1000
best mph 111.63
best et 13.0250

And here are the 60/ET/trap for all 10 runs. I'd post the time slip pictures, but it would take some time. I can if needed to better interpret the results.

ETs (AVG: 13.15707)
13.0250
13.0572
13.0635
13.0716
13.0759
13.1265
13.1612
13.2173
13.2395
13.5230

MPH (AVG: 110.803)
110.11
110.19
110.43
110.43
110.76
110.95
111.00
111.17
111.36
111.63

60FT (AVG: 2.18045)
2.1000
2.1086
2.1140
2.1149
2.1239
2.1360
2.1726
2.1912
2.2887
2.4546


Im no expert in interpreting times, but the MPH seemed consistent which leads me to believe that the car gave all it could give and my shifts were good.. everything past the 60'. However the 60 foot times seem like they could be much better.

My main concern is why im running very low 13s with such a high trap speed. Do the numbers seem right for a stock coyote? Very interested to get some feedback on the numbers and what I am capable of with a good launch.

Videos: ((apologies for the shakiness of the video.. had to use my phone in the headrest until i get a go-pro))

Here is an in-car of the 2.1000 60 foot. But not my fastest ET/MPH
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHJgOYxvmLE

Another in-car of the fastest run of the night:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KZvqlPKEfY


2011 Mustang GT, Kona Blue, Saddle Interior
Mods: Pypes 3" Offroad H pipe, Flowmaster American Thunder Axleback, Deleted resonators, Bama 93R tune, JLT Cold air intake.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016
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It is all about 60ft time - for every 1/10 lower on 60 - you will gain a estimated 2/10 at the back end - your mph will more than likely be less but you time will improve and with that improvement you are just about right on for a stock GT - my 2013 GT when new on street tires turned a average of 12.7 dead stock - one issue on the 60ft may be the 3.31 gears I have 3.73 better hole shot!!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016
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Also I just noticed that your et and 60ft got worse - not sure how much rest you gave the car but looks like it started getting heat soaked!! Depending on DA etc - I may make one back to back run then 20 minutes before the next unless it is below 60 degrees and dry air. NA cars hate heavy hot air!!!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016 Thread Starter
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Thank you for the input. One thing though. I listed the times from best to worst. That's not the same order I ran. However I know the car was getting heat soaked. I did run it back to back with very little down time due to the track not being busy yet and could practically go around and make another pass within 5 minutes.

Next time I go. I'll definitely be taking drag radials. However I've never launched on them before so I'll have to learn how much more of a burnout to do on them to heat them properly and evaluate how much harder I can launch.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016
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If you want the best performance out of a manual and less chance of breaking something - I would recommend a BiasPly Drag tire - I use Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27/10.5-15 mounted on dark star wheels - Bias Plys are a lot more forgiving - also recommend using inner tubes with these tires - depending on the track anything from a quick smoke to a full burnout works - DO NOT OVERHEAT-- tires will get worse and it will not be a fun ride (Experience taught me this) - You will see 12 easily.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olehead View Post
If you want the best performance out of a manual and less chance of breaking something - I would recommend a BiasPly Drag tire - I use Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27/10.5-15 mounted on dark star wheels - Bias Plys are a lot more forgiving - also recommend using inner tubes with these tires - depending on the track anything from a quick smoke to a full burnout works - DO NOT OVERHEAT-- tires will get worse and it will not be a fun ride (Experience taught me this) - You will see 12 easily.
Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it. I know i could have gotten a 12 if I had let the car cool. I literally drove it right in off the street after 30 miles and ran it 5 times in a row. Im mostly curious just how deep into the 12s a 111mph trap speed would have gotten me.

2011 Mustang GT, Kona Blue, Saddle Interior
Mods: Pypes 3" Offroad H pipe, Flowmaster American Thunder Axleback, Deleted resonators, Bama 93R tune, JLT Cold air intake.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016
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Here is a example: A couple of times just for fun I short shifted to see what I could do for trap speed in 4th - I had runs of 117 and 119 mph trap but my ET was just barely under 13 - with 3.73 gears I was wound out at about 7400 rpm - My best run ever in the car was 11.88 with a 60 ft of 1.6 and a trap 0f 113 - So again get the 60 ft down - do not worry about Trap ET (that is just for show) and get the ET down - seat time will do it.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016
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meant to say trap MPH - which is not what wins the race -
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016
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If you run a dot slick, just be sure that something slips. You have to have some slippage somewhere, and for your car it's going to be at the tires. I had a centerforce dual friction clutch in 69 chevelle and launched it at 5500 rpms with a 540 tq 427 motor and stiff sidewall slicks and totally grenaded my muncie (big surprise, right!). But it did hook, for a split second! The drag radial is a compromise cause you can still drive them on the street, but I would wager you won't be very consistent with them, but if you're just out to see how fast you can get the car to go, that's okay, esp if you want to drive it on the street with those tires.

I am amazed at all the people racing their cars with street tires, or even drag radials, and a stick! That takes a lot of practice! I used a line lock, 2 step rev limiter, etc., and it was still very challenging. But fun!

2007 GT, Auto, 4.10s, 3K stall, Detroit Rocker cams, UDPs, CMDPs, Alum DS, BBK LT headers/cats/x-pipe, Brenspeed 91 tune, MT SS drag radials, 275-60-15. BMR rear suspension, ft sway bar delete, strange shocks. 1/8 mile- [email protected] mph, 1.96 60' (DA-5800)
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It's all about seat time. More practice and you could still see a high 12 as it sits. The right tire on stock m6's have seen low 12's but then again, they've had some seat time. Usually on stock rubber with a manual I would usually be a 2.0'. If you got that, 12.8-12.9 easy. My auto with tune, cai and axle back ran 12.4 with a 2.0 60' on stock tires. Auto's suck until you get a converter which I'll have soon. Let us know how it goes with the stickier tire. Good runs though.
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