OK, I think you should change out the rear shocks at the same time. Get the KYB adjustable there, too - shock rates/tuning will match. Mixing suspension components can be ok if you're lucky, but why experiment? You can leave rear the quadrashocks alone - they are usually the last item you tamper with. Rear shocks cost a lot less than the front struts, and are an easy item to install yourself.
The strut tower brace is a moderately difficult install (takes patiance to drill all those holes), and removing the cowl vent cover (plastic body piece under the wipers) to get access is frought with peril (I broke mine - part costs $150 to replace - be careful, its a fragile *******). Makes big difference in body flex (drive over some railroad tracks before - and then after. You'll see what I mean.)
As for lowering the car, that's purely your call. If you're already scraping with the stock, highwater setup, I think I'd be pouring some concrete in the gutter where my driveway hit the street... My 1 1/4" lowering means I have to slow down over some speed bumps - but then I'm also running 18" wheels and tires, so the "lowering" nets a good bit less than 1 1/4".
Ride with progressive rate springs and adjustable struts/shocks is only a tiny bit harder than stock. If I had replaced the suspension bushings with oe rubber instead of polyurethane, I suspect the ride would be just like stock.
Hope this helps. Let us know how it turns out - we always wonder if our advice is followed or how the car looks/performs afterward.
Originally Posted by BOBLA90069
THANKS -- JUST THE TYPE OF ANSWER I WANTED!!
Any input such as "Change the rears, too, for XX reason" would be cool, too. I probably need the strut tower brace, I know.
I cant live with the lowering and hard ride-- the car already scrapes the driveway -- but enjoy your car!