No it would be 50 after taxes with other fees. Sorry if I confused you lol. I told the dealership to add the numbers up first and then I started negotiate with them there and go to 50k. Before that with taxes yeah would probably be around 55-56k. And I really need the car now since I’m moving to another state by myself.
What additional services are you purchasing with the car? Extended warranty? GAP insurance? Nick and Dent Repair? Wheel and Tire Road Hazard coverage? Oil servicing for 2 years?
I would handle the price of the car separately. That is MSRP minus any trade-in or down payment, Ford or Dealer discounts and rebates, and affilate (partner) discounts, and detination charges which determines the PRE TAX PRICE OF THE CAR. Then add the tax and title, and documentation fee and that should be the drive-away price.
Negotiate anything else separately. If you are going into heavy financing and worry about going under if you have an accident after driving the car off the lot then maybe get GAP insurance that pays the GAP between what the cars value at at the time of the accident and the loan balance of the CAR. If you have GAP coverage and the car is totaled the GAP policy will also cover the price of the GAP policy but WILL NOT cover the added financed items like wheel and tire hazard insurance, dent and nick coverage, etc.
If the car is totaled (or even subsequently sold or traded in) any extended policy or service plan still in force would need to be cancelled and refunded for the unused portion of the policy from whoever issued it. It could be the dealer, your bank or another company you went directly too for the policy.
Bottom line is dont let the finance department rape you. What the dealer makes off of you is not only the profit from the price they paid for the car from Ford and what they sold it to you. But they also earn a hold-back from Ford that can be 3 percent of the invoice price. The longer it sits on the lot the less hold-back they get from Ford. They also get what is called a Finance Reserve if they arrange the financing for you. For example, they secure you a 5% loan that costs them 4%. They pocket 1% of that as the broker and its legal. You can avoid that by securing your own financing and using a cashiers check to pay the dealer after you negotiated a firm price.
They also get a kickback on 3rd party warranty and service plans they sell you such as GAP, extended warranties and vehicle service contracts (nick and dent and Wheel and Tire hazard).
Wrapping back to GAP coverage; the lender (bank and credit unions) often have GAP policies cheaper.
My recommendation is just purchase the CAR from the dealer and not any add-on warranties or services.
If you want an extended warranty or dent and nick repair or wheel and tire coverage, go to an online source like Zeigler Auto that sells all brands of cars and all brands of manufacturer factory extended warranties for a better price than you will get through your dealer. Ziegler specializes in high volume and passes the savings to the customer and the warranty is honored at any Ford service department.
1. Negotiate price of car and understand each rebate and discount.
2. Tell the dealer to quote car as if they are arranging financing but that you might secure your own financing.
3. Discuss added warranties and service plans but I recommend declining them because you can get any extended factory warranty through Zeigler at anytime within the bumper to bumper period at better prices and they do finance them if you want.