Hi I am a new member on this forum and wanted your guys opinion on a 2019 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019 Thread Starter
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Hi I am a new member on this forum and wanted your guys opinion on a 2019 Mustang GT

The dealer wants 51,746 after taxes and other fees for the mustang that’s speced below and I was wondering if it was a good deal. The MSRP is 51,725. I live in Illinois so the tax is about 6 percent. I also don’t have a lot of experience negotiating so I don’t know what to really do or say. Let me know if I can go lower or this is a God’s price.

The mustang gt has
•401A
•automatic Transmission
•active exhaust
•PP1
•B&O sound system
•Magneride damping system

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019
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There are dealers in the Wash. DC area, Sheehy Ford in Springfield, that have 2019 Mustangs that are 10% to 15% less than MSRP.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019 Thread Starter
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Both places are really far. But I will look into it for Springfield. Thank you!
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019
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Geronimo, my advice is to take a look at the MSRP, then try to negotiate at least 12% off of that, and settle for 10% off.. Be able to walk away if you can't make the deal.

First off, 51K for a non Bullitt, GTxxx is quite pricey. You have to look at a few economic factors... One the car will depreciate when you drive it off the lot and there until about 25 years later, where if it's in pristine condition, my have a return on value.

Secondly, do you NEED all those options???? Why PP1? Why B/O Stereo, why 401A and why Active Exhaust, Magnaride? Unless you plan on taking this thing to the Nürburgring, not sure all that is necessary. It's nice, and if you have cash coming out a big hole you dug in the back yard, then no problems...

I'm sure the dealer has also added other things they will try to charge you for as well. Be on the look out for the "add on sheet"... That's where they try to include extra costs for things they've already done to the vehicle, such as window tinting, a Lojac system, window ser# etching, undercoating, ceramic coating, interior coatings... Trust me!!! Do NOT pay for these things.

If you were buying a a Porsche 918 fully loaded, I'd recommend just going up to a 911 with less options. Likewise those that option out their Merc CLA 250's... buy the time their optioned, get a C-Class!

I just purchased a 2019 GT Premium CA Special and we haggled for about two hours going back and forth. I went in asking for 15% off MSRP, and settled at 11% off.. And I didn't pay for any of the silly things they tried. I got 400A, no BLIS, no Memory seats, no sub in the rear... etc. They tried to pull the 4 square sheet trick on me, I pushed that away and said, we're talking OTD pricing...

Here is a few other things to ponder, Tax, doc fee, title, registration... They'll bundle all that into the loan. Your debt to loan ratio on the car will have to so far in the red that you'll now need to purchase GAP insurance, yet another cost to your monthly payments. Which brings another good point, "so what do you want your monthly payments to be..." They'll ask that... Don't talk payments, talk price of the car. They can finance a vehicle out to 84 months now...

IMO, and it's just me... cars are losing deals from the beginning. I don't carry GAP because, a.) negotiations to get the lowest price; b.) always have some money to put down c.) always try pay the fees outside the loan (with cash) ---> remember at resale or trade, you can't sell fee's and taxes, i.e. don't add non-tangible items to a auto/property loan; d.) I had equity in my trade, because I got that at 20% off MSRP, put a nice down, and paid extra over the two years I had it.

Lastly, get what you need... It doesn't have to be fully loaded. Take a friend with you... have them be your devils advocate, or I guess the opposite... Meaning, they don't have a vested interest on the car, but they have a vested interest in you and your finances... That person should be fairly good with negotiating and or at least able to slap you before doing something you regret.

Remember the dealerships have been doing this a long time, they know all the psychological tricks, they know how to move numbers around.... Know when to walk away. The Mustang has been made since 1964, there will be more made... Go home, regroup and come back at it another day if you have too..

This is all the advice I can give, I've been at both ends of the buying spectrum. A wide eyed 19 year old who had to have a brand new 1989 LX 5.0... (30 years ago) to now...

I hope all this helps.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019
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Determine what you can afford or are willing to pay then make an offer somewhere in that price range. As 51K is a bit pricey I'd start offering at 42K. That way you can go up if it's within you allowed budget.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by paul_g View Post
Geronimo, my advice is to take a look at the MSRP, then try to negotiate at least 12% off of that, and settle for 10% off.. Be able to walk away if you can't make the deal.

First off, 51K for a non Bullitt, GTxxx is quite pricey. You have to look at a few economic factors... One the car will depreciate when you drive it off the lot and there until about 25 years later, where if it's in pristine condition, my have a return on value.

Secondly, do you NEED all those options???? Why PP1? Why B/O Stereo, why 401A and why Active Exhaust, Magnaride? Unless you plan on taking this thing to the Nürburgring, not sure all that is necessary. It's nice, and if you have cash coming out a big hole you dug in the back yard, then no problems...

I'm sure the dealer has also added other things they will try to charge you for as well. Be on the look out for the "add on sheet"... That's where they try to include extra costs for things they've already done to the vehicle, such as window tinting, a Lojac system, window ser# etching, undercoating, ceramic coating, interior coatings... Trust me!!! Do NOT pay for these things.

If you were buying a a Porsche 918 fully loaded, I'd recommend just going up to a 911 with less options. Likewise those that option out their Merc CLA 250's... buy the time their optioned, get a C-Class!

I just purchased a 2019 GT Premium CA Special and we haggled for about two hours going back and forth. I went in asking for 15% off MSRP, and settled at 11% off.. And I didn't pay for any of the silly things they tried. I got 400A, no BLIS, no Memory seats, no sub in the rear... etc. They tried to pull the 4 square sheet trick on me, I pushed that away and said, we're talking OTD pricing...

Here is a few other things to ponder, Tax, doc fee, title, registration... They'll bundle all that into the loan. Your debt to loan ratio on the car will have to so far in the red that you'll now need to purchase GAP insurance, yet another cost to your monthly payments. Which brings another good point, "so what do you want your monthly payments to be..." They'll ask that... Don't talk payments, talk price of the car. They can finance a vehicle out to 84 months now...

IMO, and it's just me... cars are losing deals from the beginning. I don't carry GAP because, a.) negotiations to get the lowest price; b.) always have some money to put down c.) always try pay the fees outside the loan (with cash) ---> remember at resale or trade, you can't sell fee's and taxes, i.e. don't add non-tangible items to a auto/property loan; d.) I had equity in my trade, because I got that at 20% off MSRP, put a nice down, and paid extra over the two years I had it.

Lastly, get what you need... It doesn't have to be fully loaded. Take a friend with you... have them be your devils advocate, or I guess the opposite... Meaning, they don't have a vested interest on the car, but they have a vested interest in you and your finances... That person should be fairly good with negotiating and or at least able to slap you before doing something you regret.

Remember the dealerships have been doing this a long time, they know all the psychological tricks, they know how to move numbers around.... Know when to walk away. The Mustang has been made since 1964, there will be more made... Go home, regroup and come back at it another day if you have too..

This is all the advice I can give, I've been at both ends of the buying spectrum. A wide eyed 19 year old who had to have a brand new 1989 LX 5.0... (30 years ago) to now...

I hope all this helps.
Yes this helps a lot thank you so much for taking the time to write this. I’ve been going back and forth with the dealership and they are willing to do almost 10 percent off of msrp. I don’t like to negotiate but I understand when it comes to cars it’s necessary. But after the 10 percent off of msrp the taxes and stuff pretty much added everything back up to 50k. So I don’t know if there’s still room to negotiate in this. And for the options it’s something that I don’t need but it would be nice. That’s why I’m trying to negotiate as much as possible and seeking advise. I’ve even tried the “other dealership offered me this” and they’ve only taken 1k off.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019
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You'd have to pay the taxes and stuff on the 51K price tag so that would bring the total up to the 56K neighborhood. Also, it's cheaper to get the options with the package deal than to go without them and pay bigger bucks to have them added on. Or you could wait 5 months and get the car for even less as it would be taking up space where the new 2020s would be going.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019 Thread Starter
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You'd have to pay the taxes and stuff on the 51K price tag so that would bring the total up to the 56K neighborhood. Also, it's cheaper to get the options with the package deal than to go without them and pay bigger bucks to have them added on. Or you could wait 5 months and get the car for even less as it would be taking up space where the new 2020s would be going.
No it would be 50 after taxes with other fees. Sorry if I confused you lol. I told the dealership to add the numbers up first and then I started negotiate with them there and go to 50k. Before that with taxes yeah would probably be around 55-56k. And I really need the car now since I’m moving to another state by myself.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019
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Hi I am a new member on this forum and wanted your guys opinion on a 2019 Mustang GT

Honestly IMO, it sounds like your wanting this car more than what help you’ve asked for. You sound young... inexperienced and naive. Not quite cynical yet, but that will come...

They can never negotiate after adding all the figures. And they’ll never do that before getting you in the chair.

The sales guy is telling you this now to get you in his store where they can grill and flip you. Sounds like that’s going to be easy to do.

Then wait until you get with the finance guy, negotiations start all over again. They’ll play the old, left hand doesn’t know what the right hand is doing trick.

Look, I can’t tell you how to spend your borrowed or non-borrowed cash. You came on here looking for help but sounds like you’ve made your mind up. Good for you and hooray for the dealership. Everyone wins.

A Mustang (I don’t care how optioned out) will depreciate like mad. I stay away from all the foo-foo, the 5.0 Premium is plenty enough. And you should be able to get one of those for between $34-$36k.

Sounds like you’ve made your mind up despite the advice! So you are a good negotiator after all.

As my buddy who is in car sales biz says, “there’s an a$$ for every seat.”




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geronimo50 View Post
No it would be 50 after taxes with other fees. Sorry if I confused you lol. I told the dealership to add the numbers up first and then I started negotiate with them there and go to 50k. Before that with taxes yeah would probably be around 55-56k. And I really need the car now since I’m moving to another state by myself.
What additional services are you purchasing with the car? Extended warranty? GAP insurance? Nick and Dent Repair? Wheel and Tire Road Hazard coverage? Oil servicing for 2 years?

I would handle the price of the car separately. That is MSRP minus any trade-in or down payment, Ford or Dealer discounts and rebates, and affilate (partner) discounts, and detination charges which determines the PRE TAX PRICE OF THE CAR. Then add the tax and title, and documentation fee and that should be the drive-away price.

Negotiate anything else separately. If you are going into heavy financing and worry about going under if you have an accident after driving the car off the lot then maybe get GAP insurance that pays the GAP between what the cars value at at the time of the accident and the loan balance of the CAR. If you have GAP coverage and the car is totaled the GAP policy will also cover the price of the GAP policy but WILL NOT cover the added financed items like wheel and tire hazard insurance, dent and nick coverage, etc.

If the car is totaled (or even subsequently sold or traded in) any extended policy or service plan still in force would need to be cancelled and refunded for the unused portion of the policy from whoever issued it. It could be the dealer, your bank or another company you went directly too for the policy.

Bottom line is dont let the finance department rape you. What the dealer makes off of you is not only the profit from the price they paid for the car from Ford and what they sold it to you. But they also earn a hold-back from Ford that can be 3 percent of the invoice price. The longer it sits on the lot the less hold-back they get from Ford. They also get what is called a Finance Reserve if they arrange the financing for you. For example, they secure you a 5% loan that costs them 4%. They pocket 1% of that as the broker and its legal. You can avoid that by securing your own financing and using a cashiers check to pay the dealer after you negotiated a firm price.

They also get a kickback on 3rd party warranty and service plans they sell you such as GAP, extended warranties and vehicle service contracts (nick and dent and Wheel and Tire hazard).

Wrapping back to GAP coverage; the lender (bank and credit unions) often have GAP policies cheaper.

My recommendation is just purchase the CAR from the dealer and not any add-on warranties or services.

If you want an extended warranty or dent and nick repair or wheel and tire coverage, go to an online source like Zeigler Auto that sells all brands of cars and all brands of manufacturer factory extended warranties for a better price than you will get through your dealer. Ziegler specializes in high volume and passes the savings to the customer and the warranty is honored at any Ford service department.

1. Negotiate price of car and understand each rebate and discount.
2. Tell the dealer to quote car as if they are arranging financing but that you might secure your own financing.
3. Discuss added warranties and service plans but I recommend declining them because you can get any extended factory warranty through Zeigler at anytime within the bumper to bumper period at better prices and they do finance them if you want.
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Inshort, IMHO, $500 over dealer invoice....ask for the DMV printout...plus any customer oem incentives and that's will be about as good as it will get.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Geronimo50 View Post
No it would be 50 after taxes with other fees. Sorry if I confused you lol. I told the dealership to add the numbers up first and then I started negotiate with them there and go to 50k. Before that with taxes yeah would probably be around 55-56k. And I really need the car now since I’m moving to another state by myself.
What additional services are you purchasing with the car? Extended warranty? GAP insurance? Nick and Dent Repair? Wheel and Tire Road Hazard coverage? Oil servicing for 2 years?

I would handle the price of the car separately. That is MSRP minus any trade-in or down payment, Ford or Dealer discounts and rebates, and affilate (partner) discounts, and detination charges which determines the PRE TAX PRICE OF THE CAR. Then add the tax and title, and documentation fee and that should be the drive-away price.

Negotiate anything else separately. If you are going into heavy financing and worry about going under if you have an accident after driving the car off the lot then maybe get GAP insurance that pays the GAP between what the cars value at at the time of the accident and the loan balance of the CAR. If you have GAP coverage and the car is totaled the GAP policy will also cover the price of the GAP policy but WILL NOT cover the added financed items like wheel and tire hazard insurance, dent and nick coverage, etc.

If the car is totaled (or even subsequently sold or traded in) any extended policy or service plan still in force would need to be cancelled and refunded for the unused portion of the policy from whoever issued it. It could be the dealer, your bank or another company you went directly too for the policy.

Bottom line is dont let the finance department rape you. What the dealer makes off of you is not only the profit from the price they paid for the car from Ford and what they sold it to you. But they also earn a hold-back from Ford that can be 3 percent of the invoice price. The longer it sits on the lot the less hold-back they get from Ford. They also get what is called a Finance Reserve if they arrange the financing for you. For example, they secure you a 5% loan that costs them 4%. They pocket 1% of that as the broker and its legal. You can avoid that by securing your own financing and using a cashiers check to pay the dealer after you negotiated a firm price.

They also get a kickback on 3rd party warranty and service plans they sell you such as GAP, extended warranties and vehicle service contracts (nick and dent and Wheel and Tire hazard).

Wrapping back to GAP coverage; the lender (bank and credit unions) often have GAP policies cheaper.

My recommendation is just purchase the CAR from the dealer and not any add-on warranties or services.

If you want an extended warranty or dent and nick repair or wheel and tire coverage, go to an online source like Zeigler Auto that sells all brands of cars and all brands of manufacturer factory extended warranties for a better price than you will get through your dealer. Ziegler specializes in high volume and passes the savings to the customer and the warranty is honored at any Ford service department.

1. Negotiate price of car and understand each rebate and discount.
2. Tell the dealer to quote car as if they are arranging financing but that you might secure your own financing.
3. Discuss added warranties and service plans but I recommend declining them because you can get any extended factory warranty through Zeigler at anytime within the bumper to bumper period at better prices and they do finance them if you want.
Yeah I’m not buying any addition services, just the car. And I am getting my own financing from a local bank or credit union. MSRP for the car was 51000 and I’ve negotiated 4500 and that’s 3000 discount and the 1500 rebate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geronimo50 View Post
Yeah I’m not buying any addition services, just the car. And I am getting my own financing from a local bank or credit union. MSRP for the car was 51000 and I’ve negotiated 4500 and that’s 3000 discount and the 1500 rebate.
Beechkid hit it on the nose and will probably be the best you'll get from dealers-straight up. Also, buy near the end of the month. Sales teams have monthly quota's and incentives each month and are more willing to deal and make a sale as the month begins to end.

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I just bought similiar car. Invoice is approximately $2,700 off MSRP and holdback is ~$1,500 and rebates start at $1,500 unless your special, then more. Invoice should be doable, holdback is harder.
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