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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2005 Thread Starter
 
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Two questions

I have done some minor stuff, but have never painted a whole car, although I do know the process. Im thinking about TRYING to paint my car. Can you get a decent paint job out of a cheapy gun like "Vaper" or "Titan"? I want to try silver, but im thinking that will be a difficult color choice for a first timer? Is silver considered to be hard to paint? I definitely want a light color to hide body work. Thanks!

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2005
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The gun plays a VERY IMPORTANT role, the finer the spray the less time you will spend polishing or sanding the paint.

I would advice on starting with one of the bumpers, then judge the results and go back and do the rest.
But honestly, painting is not only the application, the prep work and choice of materials are VERY important too.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2005
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We used a $20 gun to paint a 02 chevy. Then there is the prep work, taping, sanding, removing all sorts of things you wouldnt realize you had to. There is alot of paint out there, just make sure you research what you do. You will have to get some good primer, hardener, thinner, and a few other products to make the paint look decent.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005 Thread Starter
 
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What about the silver? Is it any harder to paint than other colors? Also, what parts of the sanding process are ok to do with a D/A? I know, obviously not wet sanding, but can you do most of the rest of it with a D/A? Thanks for your help!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005
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silver should be ok to paint with, generally darker colors are harder to paint with becuase they show everyflaw more easilly. Get your hands ready, becuase wet sanding everything is the only way to ensure the you are getting every flaw out and smoothing the entire car out as a whole. Remember you can feel more in the palm of your hand sanding, than with a D/A. You can use a D/A sander for large surface areas, but you will want to go over the areas that are not flat with your hand

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Last edited by lcurle; 12-29-2005 at 07:56 AM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005 Thread Starter
 
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So before I spray color I defiently want to sand it by hand? But Its ok to sand the orgional paint down with a D/A right?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005 Thread Starter
 
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So before I spray color I defiantly want to sand it by hand? But Its ok to sand the orgional paint down with a D/A right?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005
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if the original paint is in good shape and no rust id wet sand it by hand to get it super straight

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005
 
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Really depend on what kinda of paint job you wanna do. Wetsanding is good but just D/A the whole car down first then wetsand the car afterward if you want. Now as for the D/A which stands for dual action, if you notice on a D/A you can switch it to where the sander also acts like a grinder. Your better off going and getting a finishing sander like one of those palm ones. Ive painted chromalusion on my 92 lx more then once every body shop will burn you up when you want this paint just because they want you to think it is harder to spray then like your regular silver on your car. I use the best stuff when i paint im talking dupont paint, Sata Jet paint guns. My nr2000 sata jet was about $450 when i purchased it. Better the gun better the paint job. But the paint job dont make the painter remember that. Now depending on what kinda paint job you wanna do. They have single stage and 2 stage paints. Single stage is when you take the paint reduce it and add a activator to the paint dump it in the gun spray it and it drys and looks shiney. Now 2 stage is more like what you hear basecoat/clearcoat. So you spray the basecoat first it will flash off like primer then you mix your clear coat and spray that over the base and you get the gloss. They also have 3 stage paints like i painted on my dads 66 ford galaxies roof. I sprayed a white basecoat then i sprayed a purple pearl coat over that which is the 2nd stage and the 3rd stage is the clearcoat. So when you have the car out in the light it will reflect the purple pearl off the roof in some spots and you will see a purple haze over the white. Chromaluson is different like i had on my 92lx it works like a prizm the paint goes into the paint and dispurses like prizm so the paint will change colors depending on your viewing angle. But really the paint job will only turn out good as the prep job. Use a good gun your better off you can find sata jets all day long on ebay cheap. Also devilbiss is a good paint gun i liked using them for doing clears. But you can use one guy for both stages the base and the clear. If your gonna paint your car use basecoat clear coat. single stage wont last as long and if you wanna repaint it its easier to blend a area then reclear the car instead of trying to match a faded from the sun silver. Because your basecoat will be protected from the clear. So say you get a scratch on your fender after you paint it. All you would do is wetsand the clear down on the fender around the scratch, fix the scratch with primer blend the paint then just cover the car except the fender so you dont get overspray and then just blend and reclear the fender and your done.

Use good paint such as ppg or dupont. Good primers such as dupont uro primer has a nice build to it. As for silver its a lighter paint depending on what color your painting over you might have to seal the car with a Value shade sealer that dupont makes. Silver is light and they took alot of lead out of paints such as the color red. So if you use a sealer and primer that matches the paint you will get better coverage with the silver if not your gonna spray coat after coat till you get good coverage.

Like chromalusion they will try to say you need a full gallon to do at car. so at $450 a quart you would need 2. makes a 1/2 a gallon then you need to use 1/2 of reducer to cut the base coat 50/50. then your clear and activator. So i spent like $1200 on my paint alone. I wish i would have known what i know now or i would have never spent that much. i would have gotten a quart or pint and did it with that. The secret with chromalusion is good undercoating such as sealers and primers. chromalusion WILL not show up on white. So what you do is primer it say with a grey primer then seal it with a dark vs7 sealer which is almost black. then u get cheap 99kq black basecoat that dupont sells and put about 3 good black basecoats down then start laying the chromalusion then you wont have to use as much of the chromalusion paint and save money that way.

Sorry this is so long ive just painted alot and i guess i know a little cause i use to do it for a living. Ive see some of the best paint jobs come out of some sorry booths and garages. I painted my dads 66 galaxie in a garage with hardly no lights and it turned out 100 times better then the last guy he got to paint it and maaco. And i have pictures to prove this. It dosent take much to paint just have to know what your doing. If you have any more ??? feel free to email me ill answer them as best as i can.

And go ahead and spend your money a little and get a sata jet or devilbiss. your better off. see ya
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2005 Thread Starter
 
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I was plannig on doing base coat/clear coat, and using dupont paint/primer. So its best to D/A the origional paint, then wet sand it, then primer? What grit should the primer/sealer be sanded with before paint like 400? Maybe I should be real specific, and re ask my question. Im painting an 88 lx hatch. I need to do a little body work. After the body work is done, what are all of the steps, including what grit when? Everything from start to finish I guess.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005 Thread Starter
 
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Anyone?
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First of all wet sanding is not the only way to go. Another there is a big difference between straight and smooth.

If you are doing metal work use your grinder with a 24 grit wheel.
If you are doing body filler work use 36-80.
For poly filler over filler use 80-180
Prime over 180
Paint over 320-600

Remember when your sanding the faster you take off material the more straight the panel will be. And "fast" I don't mean speed I mean the grit of the paper.

Painting is painting. You can spray a white color black color or a three stage tri-coat its all the same just a different amount of steps. A good gun will help out because they will atomize your paint primer or clears better. This will even out mettalics so you don't get zeeb.

Don't ever sand with your hand. Your hand is not straight. The only reason to sand by hand is a curved area or edges. It will leave grooves in the primer or what your sanding.

Dark colors are not harder to paint. They are harder to make bodywork look good with a dark color.

I have also used sata jet guns and they can't be beat.
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sorry it took so long to reply. it really depends on how bad the original paint is like say you have chips you might want to featheredge the chips out and all. thats when you basically just sand the chip out and create like a circle and feather it out smooth into the old paint. if the paint dont really need to be fixed anywhere like that. you can just 320 grit the whole car down. but say you feather edged the chips out primer those spots up hold your gun back a little to get a nice film build, and let it set up and dry good. if your gonna use dupot paint the URO primer is nice had a nice build i liked it alot. runs like $30-$40 a quart and then $20-$25 for the activator i think its a 3 to 1 mix but if you dont use as much activator you can keep the primer thick for good builds more activator you use when you stir it you will see it make the primer thinner. from what teeto said is right. from body work up the different grits and all.

use 80 grit when your sanding body filler get good filler if you have body work not cheap bondo crap get like evercoat.

then 220 grit after the 80 grit if you just primer over the 80 grit then sand it if you bust thru the primer when sanding with a finishing grit like 320 or finer 400 600 etc, and you bust thru the primer when you paint you'll see the 80 grit marks show up in the paint

so 220 after you 80 grit down your body work then you should throw a couple nice coats of primer with nice builds. then da all the flat area down with like a finishing sander. find these cheap at like harbor frieght etc. just like he said dont sand by hand your hands also not flat if you ever have to sand by hand use the palm of your hand its flatter. then you can finishing sanding your car with say 320 grit, you can step it up to 400, 600, 800 etc after the 320 but really thats just more work for yourself, i mean the finer the surface the better the paint will look. you can probably go over it dry with 320 then wetsand it lightly with 320 with water on it let the paper do the work. then your ready to shoot it. depending on what color your gonna use since your gonna use dupont get a value shade sealer. They go from VS1 to VS7 basically VS (valueshade)1 is white then it goes all the way to VS7 which is there darkest, spray the sealer before the base helps alot. so lighter colors such as white use vs1 darker like blacks, blues,etc use vs7. ask the sale rep which VS goes with that paint they would know. Throw down like 3 good soild basecoats. Watch the paint as it goes on keep the motion even release the trigger as you stop on both ends of the stroke. try to keep the same distance so you prevent orange peel. If the base looks like its orange peeled you can hit it with some wetsand paper and just spray back over the base again. Let your basecoats flash off wait time usually on painting condition usually like 15 mins in between coats. Then throw like 2 coats of clear on it and your done. Same steps with the clear. look on the back of the cans and it will tell you how to reduce them etc. Spend the money get the green 3M tape for making the car and a roll of good paper not newpaper that will blead thru, so yo dont have to scrape paper off your windows when your done. Keep the floor wet too to keep from dust blowing up. Im guessing your doing this in your garage cause if you had a paint booth you woulnt be asking these questions. Get yourself some tack rags. Get some dupont cleaning prep solvent too to wipe the car down before you spray it. then tack rag it in between coats. use a overlap fashion. take the tack rag say start in the middle/back of the hood drag it down to the front of the hood move your hand down maybe 2 inchs when you reach this point come back up in a overlap fashion same thing when you spray the basecoat overlap the last line you spray. If you tack rag it in between coats it helps keep the dust off alot. If you get dust you will see it in the basecoat just knock it off with some like fine 1500 grit paper and spray the base back over it. now right before you clear it tack rag the whole car again id do it twice to make sure there isnt any dirt on it at all. so when you clear it you wont have dirt under the clear. another thing is blowing the car off too make sure you blow it off outside of where ever your painting it you dont wanna have dust flying around when your painting it. pop the hood blow under there inside the car all the cracks, everwhere before you pull it in there helps alot. It would really suck if you didnt do this then say when your painting and your spraying the door and you had dirt in between the door and fender that blew out when your painting your gonna be pissed then when it gets all into the base. If you can spray primer out the can pretty decent same way with a paint gun make sure its atomized enuff and shoot it. dont be scared practice on something small like the spoiler first if you are if you mess it up. sand it down and paint it over. you can do this off the car ya know? better then rushing in and painting the whole car with no experience at all. guess its better to mess a spoiler up then the whole car ya know. And actually if you have a LX you would probably wanna paint the spoler off it anyway so you can spray under the spoiler too if your doing a complete color change. then you can do all the steps on the spoiler. Primer,sealer,sanding, base, clear, etc. Just remember when you activate the sealer get cups so your not activating everything activate only what you wanna spray. and get a decent guy too like the other dude said SATA or a DEVILBISS. You can find these on ebay cheap. GOOD LUCK this post is long i know but takes forever to tell all the steps. message me back if you need anymore info. see ya
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