whats the best way to remove wax - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Wash
Clay
Polish
Seal
Wax (optional)

The polishing step will remove any left over lsp. I like claying because the last thing you want is for a hard surface contaminate breaking loose getting into your pad during polishing. My car is usually so clean by the polish step I only need one pad to do the whole car.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by jth877 View Post
Wash
Clay
Polish
Seal
Wax (optional)

The polishing step will remove any left over lsp. I like claying because the last thing you want is for a hard surface contaminate breaking loose getting into your pad during polishing. My car is usually so clean by the polish step I only need one pad to do the whole car.
If you have a clear coat on there won't the clay take it off?


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Originally Posted by MustangInTexas View Post

Beechkid, I don't think you're thinking correctly about what a "surfactant" does. It only lowers the surface tension. Basically, makes the water "wetter". It allows the water to be absorbed better into the surface of a substance.
just a little to much over-simplication...............

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Originally Posted by ccarney View Post
Ahh the year 2009. Beech did you ever let Michael Stoops of Megs know where you got the 3500 grit example from?
Clay bar not recommended for use by Ford, GM etc.. - Page 4
1. The issue with paint contamination and clay bar began in the late 80's, by 1990, the paint mfgs and auto mfg's had this info published in every "paint correction reference document" for professionals and dealerships.


2. Megs was sued by the FTC 1 year prior to the sale of Megs to 3M corporation, who settled with the FTC and included, Their chemist "will never make such (mis-leading) statements again" and they were to publish in professional publications that they had reached a settlement regarding this matter, etc. etc.


3. With regards to the grit ratings........those are available directly from the mfg (which btw 99% of clay bar products are shipped by the same mfg from japan- where the product was developed)

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Originally Posted by ccarney View Post
A huge misconception in detailing is that dawn with strip a LSP. Use a product designed to strip LSPs.

A couple google searches will reveal a ton of information on the subject. I would start with this post. Dawn Wash - Album on Imgur


I read the posting carefully....there is so much bogus (imho) statements here that I can't begin to go into all the detail, but, the posted conclusions are absent of "basic chemistry".......


Depending on the thickness of the sealant or wax for that matter, it may take multiple applications....this includes the use of GoSolve, denatured alcohol, (even mineral spirits), etc.


Again, hot water is the key, non-chlorinated dish soap will help dissolve, lift, float, etc.

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You're still missing the point that many dish soaps leave behind a film and hence are NOT good for washing a car at any stage. Unless you're trying to degrease the entire car and then wash it with good car wash soap right afterward but your car shouldn't get that dirty. Any my definition of surfactant wasn't simplicity but actually is the definition. It cuts the surface tension of a liquid. That's all it means.
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You're still missing the point that many dish soaps leave behind a film and hence are NOT good for washing a car at any stage. Unless you're trying to degrease the entire car and then wash it with good car wash soap right afterward but your car shouldn't get that dirty. Any my definition of surfactant wasn't simplicity but actually is the definition. It cuts the surface tension of a liquid. That's all it means.


I'm not missing the pint, any product (commercial or otherwise) must be washed/rinsed after the application......this by the gents own vid shows this........


and if you look at what a "surfactant' is (what the mfg uses), it's liquid soap...and yes, that's what it does is break the tension of the water to allow greater penetration but also reduces the specific gravity.

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Wow, who new my original question would turn into an issue. All I want to do is remove old layers of wax and detailers, so I can give the car a nice polishing and either sealer or wax finish. No chemistry lessons needed, just suggestions on best, easiest method to accomplish this task. Just want to get the car back to the original clear coat

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I mix a car wash designed to strip wax at a high concentrate, clay, then wipe down with a 10% IPA mixture.
Honestly, I would go over to reddit and their AutoDetailing sub. The information on that site is more inline with correct practices.

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Quote:
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Wow, who new my original question would turn into an issue. All I want to do is remove old layers of wax and detailers, so I can give the car a nice polishing and either sealer or wax finish. No chemistry lessons needed, just suggestions on best, easiest method to accomplish this task. Just want to get the car back to the original clear coat
Then ignore everything you've read in this entire waste of a thread and buy a gallon of wax and grease remover and you're done. It's what every body shop in the world uses to clean and prepare a car for paint (because when you're painting, wax is a contaminant). I don't know why this is such a hard concept. You can get it at any parts store, paint and body store, and a number of places online.

I use Southern Polyurethanes, both their solvent as well as waterborne WGR. The Waterborne will remove 3x the contaminants in a single pass than the solvent, but has a longer flash time as well.

Wash car first, wipe down with WGR.

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