Do turbos burn oil? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Do turbos burn oil?

Hello everyone. I have an on3 70mm single turbo setup on a 5.0 stroked 4.6. The engine was rebuilt, has about 3k on it. It has straight 3" free flow pipes from the turbo all the way back no cats, no mufflers. It smokes a little bit. It smells like unburnt fuel. The guy I bought it from did say it ran a little rich. It has breather caps on both valve covers and I have seen a white mist coming from them. But I've been burning a little oil. I've had tto add twice now. Coolant is still full. It sometimes drips a clear liquid that has an odd smell . And when I changed the clutch I unbolted the exhaust under the transmission and it kind of poured out a liquid. Is there anything wrong with my setup? And also. I've never had a turbo car. How do I Keep it maintained and lubricated? Do I change the oil more often? Anything specific I need to add? I'd appreciate any help. Thank you

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018
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When everything is perfect, no. But if oil is finding its way through the turbo seals, this will cause consumption. Also, turbocharging an engine that isn't 'tight' can cause excessive ring blow-by, and that pressure has to vent somewhere. That usually has oil vapor in it.

I know it's a completely different engine, but Mazda recognized the turbo seal issue with their 2.3 DISI and issued a 'bulletin' to use 5W-40 to slow it. There were a lot of Mazdaspeed 3 guys that had blue smoke at idle, and this appeared to fix a lot of them.

Can't imagine your turbo needs rebuilt at 3K, so bump up your viscosity & see if it improves.

Learn to live with the fuel smell. Better rich than lean, I promise.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cbdallas View Post
When everything is perfect, no. But if oil is finding its way through the turbo seals, this will cause consumption. Also, turbocharging an engine that isn't 'tight' can cause excessive ring blow-by, and that pressure has to vent somewhere. That usually has oil vapor in it.

I know it's a completely different engine, but Mazda recognized the turbo seal issue with their 2.3 DISI and issued a 'bulletin' to use 5W-40 to slow it. There were a lot of Mazdaspeed 3 guys that had blue smoke at idle, and this appeared to fix a lot of them.

Can't imagine your turbo needs rebuilt at 3K, so bump up your viscosity & see if it improves.

Learn to live with the fuel smell. Better rich than lean, I promise.
I've read that blow by can be common with boosted applications and to use a catch can to help solve it. But the pcv valve was replaced by breather filters and it just vents a mist out sometimes when it's hot.
And now that I think about it, it didn't smoke until I added oil the first time I just put 5w20 in it not thinking if a turbo would need a heavier weight with it running hotter?
And yea I don't mind the smell. Just want to make sure something isnt gong wrong already.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018
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Dump whatever is in there and put in a 5W-40. You could even go 10W-40 if it's not cold where you are.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Dump whatever is in there and put in a 5W-40. You could even go 10W-40 if it's not cold where you are.
Will do. And I won't be able to do the 10w, it was 30F here this morning lol. Thanks for the input man I really appreciate it.

If this does not change anything what do I look for next?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018
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Use the recommended oil, when possible. The manufacturer builds these engines with tolerances set up for a particular viscosity.

The gaps engineered into your engine are designed to leak oil out at a given pace, allowing new, fresh, cool oil to replace it.

If you put something too 'runny' in, it will squirt out faster than intended, or may not deliver adequate bearing support in some areas. Your pump may not be able to keep up with demand.

If you put an oil that's too 'thick' in, it will have trouble making it down the passages, creating similar problems but for different reasons. You'll have oil starvation at higher RPMs especially.

The only time you'd normally want to mess with that would be in special circumstances - for example, track racing. You might want to step up to a 'thicker' oil that can handle 105 degree runs around a track. When your oil gets incredibly hot from all the full throttle use and blazing summer temps, it won't become too runny to cushion your engine parts, where the stock oil just might.

Another example might be if you live in Alaska, and you routinely start and drive your car while the temps are well below zero. Your factory oil might end up thick as taffy, and unable to do its job.
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