4.10 or ? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019 Thread Starter
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4.10 or ?

I own a '96 Cobra with 110K miles. The engine is stock (and N/A). I've completed moderate suspension upgrades, MGW shifter...I'm considering swapping out the 3.27 gear with a 4.10 or 4.30. Any recommendations as to which ratio and why? Also, my stock clutch is going. I'm looking at the Exedy Mach 400 Stage 2 ($245 @ AM). It's a random consideration based on reviews I've read. Any suggestions regarding clutches, brands etc? Should I replace the clutch cable, and is a speedo gear a good choice for re-calibrating the speedometer? Lastly, if anyone happens to know, approximately where would the rpm be hovering at 65/70 mph if I installed a 4.30? Thank you for your time.

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019
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My 68 GT350 has a 3.89 rear end with a toploader 4 speed. I just fixed two bad head gaskets this summer and freshed up the engine getting an extra 100 HP. Great combination except highway driving. I wish I had an overdrive 5th gear. With this engine rebuild it's even more annoying to be running 3200 at 60 MPH. So it depends on what your want your Mustang to do. 1/4 racing get a 4.10 for sure. Regular highway driving, probably something you will regret.
As for a clutch, doing the engine rebuild we pulled out the clutch and pressure plate. It needed replacement especially with 100 more HP. After spending hours on the internet looking at clutches and PP, I opted for the McLeod Racing diaphragm set up. It's nice how McLeod put their clutches & PP into categories based on the level of their clutches. I got the next step above stock, #75213. Lots of friends cautioned me about getting too much clutch & PP. My brother told me about being asked to drive a friend's car across town and it had a full race clutch. Said there were times he wasn't sure he was going to be able to keep holding that clutch in.
I absolutely love this clutch. Full confidence it will handle the 350 HP, the pedal pressure is a bit more than the stock unit I had prior. I'd say my 2017 Mustang clutch is stiffer than this mechanical version. My engine builder recommended a diaphragm over the Long 3 fork PP. The only thing is he suggested a 10.5" clutch and the diaphragm came in a 10". Can't say that I notice a difference. But I am still breaking in this clutch and PP. So no OMG launches with it yet.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019
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This outfitthat I have been buying clutches from these guys for 30+ years is family ownedand have used their clutches in many applications from Hot Rods, work trucks& racing applications. Just tell them of any concerns, what you have, etc and they will discuss with you what their recommendations are...I can honestly state that I have never had any issue with anything I have every purchased from them and it always works the 1st time- just like it is suppose to! They typically cost less than most of the competitors, provide 24 hour turn-around and the assemblies always work (literally) just exactly the way they should....I just can't say enough about these guys. Just tell them what you have, how you use it and anyconcerns/issues.

Unless youneed a “Gorilla Type Clutch”, their FX200 series will more than suffice formost street or street strip applications…..and it’s priced about the same as anoem replacement unit.

Clutchmasters
267 E. Valley Blvd.
Rialto, CA
909-877-6800

I am also not a fan of most of the "mail order" clutch guru's for street use vehicles and that includes McLeod (much of whose components are made in china), etc. A good local clutch rebuilder is best to purchase from.....in most cases they have access to the same or better components, have direct experience with the vehicle you specifically have, havedirect knowledge of general drivetrain/chassis issues, are faster and cheaperthan most of the oem replacement units.

Well, let me tell you about the last McCleod clutch "kit" that Ibought..........
The vehicleit was going in was modified, cam, etc....just a real nice street engine- all newly rebuilt. Now, McCleod who I purchased this directly from (and I'm showing my age now as this was back when 100% of their components were mfg'd by them), knew exactly what the vehicle was & its intended use.....I received my clutch a few days later.....(I'm in SoCal), with a written note...don't downshift with this clutch it will cause pre-mature wear.

You have to be kidding me...I lived in the San Bernardino Mountains! I called them and basically they advised that warning was only for racing applications (what the?)

Within 6months, this custom built heavy duty clutch required re-adjustment monthly, & was completely worn out....pressure plate springs were weak (2 had completely failed to the point you could press them down by hand), the disc was worn & the diaphragm springs failed causing the disc to begin to warp........this was on a new, hand built engine.....which and was during the initial break in so it was not abused!

I replaced it with a unit from Clutchmasters......never an issue, nor on the other 6+ vehicles I have used them in.

Hays used to build nice clutches but was sold to a fortune 500 about 10+ years ago. Centerforce was also known for quality products.

Others input on McLeod

How long does a clutch last??? - Ford Mustang Forum
AlloyPony
My dad andI put a McLeod clutch in his '03 Terminator this summer at the advice of thelocal dyno shop. His car makes around 500 at the rear tires. They told him thetwin disc McLeod was the best thing he could buy. Said that they areexpensive...but you get what you pay for.

So, hethrew down the coin for the McLeod and we put it in. Pedal felt awesome and cardrove great. FIRST trip out to the cruise in on Saturday night the car smokedthe clutch. Smoked it so bad that he couldn't even drive it home. Took it backout and went down to the shop and of course they wouldn't stand behind it. Butthe guy pointed at the discs and said "there's your problem". TheMcLeod had "Made in China" stamped on the friction discs.

So...longstory short he paid to have the discs re-lined with quality American madeKevlar friction material and the car has been fine ever since. But I seriouslydoubt he'll buy another McLeod clutch ever again. Or listen to hear-say aboutperformance parts ever again for that matter. Lol. That was a very expensivelesson.

I think theclutch that came out of the car was a Centerforce clutch. It had been in therefor a long time...like 3 or 4 years of being beaten on.

http://www.mustangcollective.com/showthread.php?t=32071

Nice Pony
McLeod RSTTwin Disc Clutch started dragging after a couple of weeks. Called McLeod, afterdetermining that indeed the clutch was dragging Lee said to pull it, send thewhole assembly including the flywheel to him and he would fix it and make sureit worked properly. He also noted to us that the two disks are differentthickness and on a rare occasions his supplier of the discs has shipped thewrong sizes. When we pulled the clutch and it was right away obvious, threenuts on studs that hold the floater plate to the adapter plate installed at thefactory and there is no mention of torqueing them, removing them or anything atall in the installation manual. They all three had back off so obviously theyhad not been tightened at the factory. Installation instructions on the McLeodweb site that were different then what shipped with the clutch. On the web siteit states to torque the three floater plate nuts to 25ft-lbs and use RedLocktite on them which obviously never had been done at the factory. Thefloater plate was burned a little so we sent the entire assembly to Lee to refreshit.

Aftergetting the clutch rebuilt and re-installed, the same issue persists. Theclutch will not dissengage properly if you come to a stop with the transmissionin gear and the clutch pedal depressed. It also has a rougher than averageengagement from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd for the TR6060. It doesnt happenevery time, but probably 50% of the time. After taking the transmission out forthe third time in 2 months, I have to give up on this clutch.

05MoneyPit

Got thesame clutch in my car but I'm running a TKO600. Engagement is solid and brutalbut shifting it is a PITA. Mike www.powerhouse411.com fought with it also whenthey did the engine rebuild. Tried different T/O spacing set-ups and now have asteel line from the master but it still isn't smooth. I just can't hit 2nd and3rd like I think I should be able to. Sent the unit back to McLeod once, theyre-built it and it was better for a while but has never been perfect.

:hello:
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Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thank you for responding to my questions. I greatly appreciate your time, knowledge and insight. I've decided to go with the 4.10s and will likely replace the LSD discs with the FP carbon Traction-LOK re-build kit (and a 28 spline S-spring). Thanks again.
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