No Fuel Pump Prime. Ignition Switch? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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No Fuel Pump Prime. Ignition Switch?

Hey all newbie here. Just acquired my first ever Mustang. It's a 2001 convertible with 114,000 miles. Has the 3.8 with auto trans.
I'm having the following issue. When I try to start the engine I get no fuel. Here's the kicker. If I use the car's after market remote start the engine fires right up. Put the key in the ignition, turn on and drive away. Was told by previous owner that the car started with the key at one time (with the remote start installed). I'm guessing I have a bad ignition switch?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Do you want to know for sure? Test to see IF there is key on power into and out of fuse F2.34 with the key on. Fuse F2.34 is used as the CCRM pilot duty circuit and is responsible to "pull up" the CCRM thus powering on the rest of the motor circuits.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...ml#post2669271

It seems to me that this could also be a wiring problem. More trouble shooting needed. Likely you will also need to know HOW the remote start has been spliced in.

1996+ Crank with no start check list
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...e.html#2984838

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Smile

Thanks Wmburns. I was hoping you'd chime in with some wisdom.
The back story on the car. Belonged to my sis-in-law. Her and her husband have retired and bought a motorhome. They sold off everything and plan to hit the road to see America. The car had been sitting for the last year, not running. She had planned on calling a scrapper to come haul it away. I just couldn't let her scrap this beautiful Mustang. I got the old gas out of her. Added some Seafoam to the tank and got the old girl up and running. Just needs a few things here and there and it will be a nice little car to run around in. I just wish it had the V-8. lol
I'll go through your troubleshoot list over the next few days and get back.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Ok... Checked fuses at kick plate and under hood. All good.

Turn key on but don't crank... Theft light Does Not go out. It keeps flashing indefinitely.

I do not hear fuel pump running when I turn key on. I did verify that switch in trunk was not popped up.
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Just to be sure we are on the same game page. There is confirmed key on power in fuse F2.34. The power goes away when the key is off. I'm not just asking if the fuse is good. Get this test wrong and you could be in for a wild goose chase.

It would also help if you knew for certain HOW and which circuits that the remote start is wired into.

Are you positive that the PATS chipped key is the correct key for this car? The one that the PCM is expecting. Sometime with a remote start kit there are are things done to bypass the normal operation of PATS. Sometimes the head of a chipped key is placed near the PATS transceiver so that there is something to read.

Not hearing the fuel pump run at initial key on is a problem. Remember that PATS does NOT disable the fuel pump. It works by disabling the injector pulse.

Have you confirmed that the PCM will "talk" to an ODB2 scanner with the key on? Why is this important? Because it "proves" that the PCM is awake and functioning at some level.

Do you have an ODB2 scanner? If you did this might make short work of this problem. Here's some information on an affordable Windows based unit. This is a very powerful scanner.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...elm327-usb.57/

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
Just to be sure we are on the same game page. There is confirmed key on power in fuse F2.34. The power goes away when the key is off. I'm not just asking if the fuse is good. Get this test wrong and you could be in for a wild goose chase.

It would also help if you knew for certain HOW and which circuits that the remote start is wired into.

Are you positive that the PATS chipped key is the correct key for this car? The one that the PCM is expecting. Sometime with a remote start kit there are are things done to bypass the normal operation of PATS. Sometimes the head of a chipped key is placed near the PATS transceiver so that there is something to read.

Not hearing the fuel pump run at initial key on is a problem. Remember that PATS does NOT disable the fuel pump. It works by disabling the injector pulse.

Have you confirmed that the PCM will "talk" to an ODB2 scanner with the key on? Why is this important? Because it "proves" that the PCM is awake and functioning at some level.

Do you have an ODB2 scanner? If you did this might make short work of this problem. Here's some information on an affordable Windows based unit. This is a very powerful scanner.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...elm327-usb.57/
Double checked fuse at F2.32 with key on. Power is going through fuse.

Remote start. I have no clue

Positive that key is correct one for the car.

I double checked not hearing fuel pump cycle when turning key on by having the wife stand next to the gas tank. Also, I did borrow a scanner from a buddy. Scanner showed no fuel at key on.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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OK, Need some more information.

Is there key on power in and out of fuse F2.2 and F2.8?

If the remote start is used to you hear the fuel pump run?

However, it wouldn't surprise me IF the remote start is wired into the fuel system as well as the ignition. It also wouldn't surprise me if there were some hidden switches that also need to be "activated" to use the key.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Power confirmed with key on at F2.2 and F2.8

I put my hearing aids in this morning (not joking) and crawled under the gas tank. Triple confirmed that fuel pump does not come on when key is turned to run position. It "clunks" but does not run. If I start the car with the remote the fuel pump "clunks" then runs for a few seconds.

There's two relays under the dash associated with the remote start. Four wires going to each. Also two smaller wires leading up the steering column towards the ignition.

Was talking to an acquaintance who has some experience selling/installing aftermarket remote starters. He seemed convinced I have a bad key. The one I have is aftermarket. I wonder if I should go to the dealer and try to get a new/spare key made? I need a spare key either way.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Btw.... In reference to my original post. I verified it is not a bad ignition switch by swapping mine out with a known to be good switch.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steeeve View Post
Was talking to an acquaintance who has some experience selling/installing aftermarket remote starters. He seemed convinced I have a bad key. The one I have is aftermarket. I wonder if I should go to the dealer and try to get a new/spare key made? I need a spare key either way.
YOU can answer this question yourself. Turn the key to run but do NOT crank. Does the theft light go out after a 3 second "prove out"? IF so, then the PATS key has been read and accepted.

Next. Ford Factory PATS does NOT disable the fuel pump. PATS works by withholding fuel injector pulse. Soooooo if the fuel pump is not running it's NOT because of PATS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steeeve View Post
Power confirmed with key on at F2.2 and F2.8

I put my hearing aids in this morning (not joking) and crawled under the gas tank. Triple confirmed that fuel pump does not come on when key is turned to run position. It "clunks" but does not run. If I start the car with the remote the fuel pump "clunks" then runs for a few seconds.
We need to know IF there is confirmed key on power at the trunk mounted IFS switch. I still suspect this is remote start cause and HOW the remote start is wired in between the various subsystems.

Should there be power at the trunk IFS switch using the remote start but not with the key, this tells us something.

If you still feel this is key related here's some information on a possible DIY solution. However, I still feel there's a hidden key head some where near the ignition switch.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...elm327-usb.57/
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2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I unplugged the IFS switch in trunk and tested at the plug. 12 volts with the key on and 12 volts when the remote start is activated.

As long as you are willing to share your expertise with me I'll follow you. It's greatly appreciated.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I removed the panels under the dash/steering column to search for a hidden key. I couldn't find one. I don't know if you can tell anything by the pic but it shows some of the remote start wiring.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Did a little digging around under the dash today looking for that key. I think I came across something just as good? Think I found a bypass for the anti theft?
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