Oil Pan replacement ,1994 Mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011 Thread Starter
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Oil Pan replacement ,1994 Mustang

Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your willingness to help out this is greatly appreciated. I have a 94 mustang v6 and the other day I hit a sewer cap that was raised too high and it tore a hole in my oil pan.

I'm told that it will need to be replaced but they will have to lift the engine. I'm a college student with little money so I've asked my uncle to help. I was wondering if anyone knew the easiest way to change that oil pan. I had heard rumors that you might be able to drop the suspension rather than lift the engine.

I don't know much about cars at all so I'm at a loss but my uncle seems to be an okay mechanic when I can get him motivated. I'm paying my way through grad school and I just can't afford to spend the $650 in labor they want so I'm reaching out for help. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and God Bless!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011
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The procedure in the Ford manual for V6 oil pan replacement calls for the motor to be supported with a fender style brace. In addition, the K-member must be lowered to gain access.

Good luck.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011
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My chiltons says that you do not need to touch the suspension. It says remove the starter to allow everything to lift more.

What year ford manual were you looking at? The 01 up cars this may be necessary because the main caps / girdle was bigger. Sice he has a 94 it should be easier.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011
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You are right. I was using a 2002-2003 reference.

Here's an example of why the forums are not a replacement for a professionally written service manual for the car's MY. Go with what the Chilton's manual says.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011
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i have the haynes manual and it says you have to drop the suspension !

i've done this before because i had an accedant where i crashed the oil pan to pieces so i sent it to a mechanic and it took him a few days because they couldnt just take it out or put the new one in so they had to disconnect the transmission and lift the engine

now i have a huge crack in my new oil pan and i'm not lifting the engine again i thing its time for me to change the suspension anyway
although its been like that for a few months now leaking and everyday i add 1 liter :p
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011
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and btw its not cheap so just take the old one to a machine shop and see what they can do i will
its just aluminum and can be fixed
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo7md View Post
i have the haynes manual and it says you have to drop the suspension !

i've done this before because i had an accedant where i crashed the oil pan to pieces so i sent it to a mechanic and it took him a few days because they couldnt just take it out or put the new one in so they had to disconnect the transmission and lift the engine

now i have a huge crack in my new oil pan and i'm not lifting the engine again i thing its time for me to change the suspension anyway
although its been like that for a few months now leaking and everyday i add 1 liter :p
Is your car an 01+ also?

OP can get a used pan on eBay for cheap.

A liter a day? That's expensive and just plain ridiculous. JB weld that bitching, just make sure it's pristine clean first.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-14-2011
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yeah i wanted to weld it but didnt have time
i'm in college and i need my car alot so i cant afford to lose it for a few days or a week maybe

its a 95
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalman302 View Post
Is your car an 01+ also?

OP can get a used pan on eBay for cheap.

A liter a day? That's expensive and just plain ridiculous. JB weld that *****ing, just make sure it's pristine clean first.
I'm with him on this. I would try this first, and yanking the motor as a last resort. Drain the oil, keep the plug out, spray the entire bottom with brake cleaner, then JB weld it and let it cure. You have no idea how much of a PITA it is to drop the suspension. It is far easier to yank the motor.....

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thanks for the tip

i tried to fix it with a high temprature selecon glue but that didnt work

i'll try it your way
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