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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey you guys super new here. I recently bought a 2001 Mustang GT off of marketplace on Facebook. It was sold as a v6 that didn’t run because the belt had broken. Supposedly.
when I arrived on scene the car turned out to be a V-8 with a cam a few other mods, and lo and behold,a broken belt. I quickly determine the AC was locked up and went with the next best option, which was getting a F150 belt from O’Reilly’s and completely bypassing it just to make the car from where I bought it to my friends house.
. Now that I’m looking the car over and checking everything twice I’ve Since replaced Inner and outer tierods,ball joints, the entire swaybar, rear shocks, ignition coils, the spark plugs, the tires, wheels and new filters.
Don’t get me wrong I love mustangs I’ve got multiple pony related tatts and only driven mustangs my entire 22 years of living lol . (Six of which would be driving. !). However, I’m not a genius and I don’t portray myself as one. I was just needing to get a list of things that are necessary to check before getting this show pony on the road. It would be great if you could help me out. Thanks thanks

22Female Texas
 

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Tech Advisor
2014 GT, 1967 Fairlane GTA
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How do you know it has aftermarket cams(it has 2 cams, one in each head)?
It sounds like you already covered many of the basics. You may want to buy some MAF spray cleaner and spray out the MAF sensor and TB(throttle body) so that you know they're clean. Front struts are probably a good idea if it has anywhere near 100k miles or more. I assume that you checked over the brakes with all the work that you already did but a brake fluid flush is going to be a good idea. Same with the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies @geri-sanatore and @Cobrajet67. I know it’s had head work and cams due to the gaskets I see peeking out of the head as well as the larger set of pulleys, and the lope it has when it idles. And yes it has right at 105k miles. As far as steering and alignment; every pony I’ve owned has alignment problems probably because suspension is the last thing I always upgrade, which kind of bites me in the ass every time. I tried to allign it myself. However, I’m nowhere near close to correct. And the brake flush that’s a good idea I haven’t thought of that. I noticed now it’s leaking a little bit of power steering fluid due to the lines that go into the rack and pinion. When I replace the rack and pinion myself, the lines were a pain and it was really hard to get them back into the threads on the gearbox thingy. Thanks
 

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Tech Advisor
2014 GT, 1967 Fairlane GTA
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The heads wouldn't need to be removed to swap out cams. To remove cams just the valve covers and some of the front of the engine are necessary. An aftermarket cam will have some identifying stampings on the end of it. If the heads were off then there is a possibility that head work was done but it could also just mean that it needed gaskets or some other repair work.
A perceived lope could very easily be due to an engine idling issue unless the lope was completely consistent. Cam swaps are actually not that common but if it did have them swapped out then it would have an aftermarket tune in it. In such a case they should have given you the tuning device that's married to the car because that leaves you with no way to correct or change the computer software. The only recourse would be to have the original factory program loaded back into the car from the dealer or a well equipped shop that has the equipment/software to do so. Any mods like cams or even something simple like an aftermarket CAI would make an aftermarket tune necessary for the car to run properly, not register trouble codes, and not damage the cats so you would then need to buy a tuner to correct for the mods done. This is why it's important to know exactly what mods have been done to a car.
Speaking of trouble codes I would have the car scanned to see if anything is going on.
Underdrive pulleys are done completely independent of other modifications. They have mixed reviews on this forum. Many people have had charging, cooling, and even some power steering performance issues while some others reported no problems.
There's a good chance that the car has the original brake fluid in it which would have quite a bit of water in it by now. After only 5 years you'll be at like 7-8% water content. The % mostly levels off around that point but having that much water in the fluid decreases brake performance and causes corrosion problems so I recommend having the fluid flushed on a car that old.
 
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