Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay......purchased a 2002 Mustang GT a few months back as a fix and flip car. It needed a fuel pump (according to owner) and a paint job. Replaced the fuel pump and it would not crank. It would spin but never turn over. Theft light would blink and odometer was all dashes. Called out a tech guy (who the local Ford dealership uses) and he diagnosed the computer was bad. Purchased a brand new computer and had him come out and reprogram it and it started.

Car would start almost every time but other days the theft light would come on and it would not crank. The tech guy thought maybe the keys and or key reader might be bad. Had new keys programmed, replaced key reader and had him come back out, wipe out the computer and re-install everything. Car would crank and all keys were operable. Car would crank fine for a few days and then started its routine again and would not crank and of course theft light was blinking.

Tech guy did some research and said a guy told him that with the dashes on the gauges when trying to crank, the gauges were going bad. He recommended a shop in Dallas that would swap the existing info from current gauges onto a new donor set and hopefully that would work. Well, after 2 trips to Dallas, I got home today to learn that the gauge swap did NOT work. Same issue and I even tried both sets of gauges........This has gotten to be such a regular occurrence that it's now common knowledge for me that when you try and crank the car, if the fan comes on, you know it's not gonna crank. If not, it will.

I am desperate!!!! Bought this car to sell and it is immaculately clean in and out with low miles but I cannot possibly sell this car without resolving this problem. From my understanding, the PATS system involves the computer, keys and gauges and if ALL have been replaced, what am I missing??? The PATS system seems to be the smartest/dumbest thing created.........Please, I am willing to try anything at this point!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,858 Posts
Tech guy did some research and said a guy told him that with the dashes on the gauges when trying to crank, the gauges were going bad. He recommended a shop in Dallas that would swap the existing info from current gauges onto a new donor set and hopefully that would work. Well, after 2 trips to Dallas, I got home today to learn that the gauge swap did NOT work. Same issue and I even tried both sets of gauges........This has gotten to be such a regular occurrence that it's now common knowledge for me that when you try and crank the car, if the fan comes on, you know it's not gonna crank. If not, it will.
IMO what you are missing is this isn't likely a PATS problem per se.

Confirm that the primary symptom is "crank with no start". Or is it sometimes "no crank"? The difference is VERY important trouble shooting this issue.

Normally when the cluster displays all dashes ("----") it's a sign that the PCM and cluster are not talking to each other.

When the cooling fan runs at initial key on, this is usually a sign that the PCM is not being powered or dead.

Considering the amount of parts replaced and the fact we know the PCM is good because it does run, my 1st guess is that the PCM is not getting power. The trick is to find out why.

Possible examples:
  • bad CCRM
  • bad fuse
  • bad ignition switch
  • bad ground
  • bad PCM (assuming good in this case)
  • wiring fault
Do you have a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and are you willing to use it?

Do you have a set of wiring diagrams because they will be very helpful performing the tests needed to accurately nail this problem down. If interested in getting a copy for yourself I maybe able to help. PM if interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. It is always crank and no start when it happens........Yes, willing to try that and certainly appreciate the ideas of what could be the issue. I'll PM you:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Sadly another one where I have been there and done that. Intermittent crank no start condition.. Turn key off and try again and usually it would start. Sometimes not though. Extremely cold weather aggravated it.. Extremely cold like 8 degrees out and first start of the day.

Bad fuel pump.

Put a VOM on the fuel pump, had input voltage when it failed. No fuel in the rails when I removed the FRPS. I don't have a test port on my 2003.

Replaced the fuel pump and it's been fine ever since.

Look at the basics first before digging into the esoteric stuff.
Spark, air and fuel.

P.S If you have good ears you can hear the fuel pump whir on key on (not start).. My vert has a ton of Dynomat insulation in the trunk and behind the rear seat so I can't hear it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Is your fuel pump turning on? Despite you replacing the computer, it still seems like it has the same symptoms as a bad computer: odometer dashes, fan coming on, crank but no start
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top