Ford Mustang Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I'm hoping I can find answers or advice on Mustang forums as I have an issue that I've been dealing with on my 03 V6 for a while.

For context, in June I hit a pothole the size of a crater. It was either hit the pot hole, or crash into another car. The pot hole impact was so bad that I lost control of the car and hit the stone barrier in the middle of the road. I was going roughly 50. The driver side wheels were both destroyed, strut tower was bent inward about 2 inches and the chasis was bent.

The repairs and parts are as follows:

  • New brake rotors in the front wheels
  • New ball joints in front wheels
  • 4 new tires
  • Koni STR.T shocks/struts (the orange ones)
  • SR Performance Lowering Springs - Sport (Could not find OEM Ford springs)
  • Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
  • Frame re-alignment back to Ford spec
  • Front fender and rear panel replaced

The exterior of the car looks new again, but the driver side of the body is still sagging about half to 3/4 of an inch lower than the passenger side. The body sagging was happening before I replaced the shocks/struts and springs. A mechanic told me new shocks/struts and springs would fix the problem. It didn't. The driver side front wheel also keeps falling out of alignment with the camber falling inward no matter how many times I have the wheels aligned.

Pep Boys (where I got the tires and warranty on tires/alignment) (3 different Pep Boys stores), 4 different mechanics, 3 body shops and even a mechanic that specializes in modding/restoring Mustangs have all inspected the suspension, chasis, springs, shocks, struts and control arms, with everyone giving a thumbs up to the car. If so many professionals are giving my car the thumbs up, yet the body is still sagging and the driver side front wheel keeps falling out of alignment, something isn't right. The springs are evenly aligned from the tires, to the ground, to the chasis, to the body, etc. The shocks/struts are brand new and installed properly, the frame is evenly aligned to Ford spec and the camber plates are brand new, with the passenger side camber holding alignment. There's something between the body and the chasis that's causing this, I just don't know what it is.

I'm completely stumped. I hit the pot hole in June, and it has been in and out of shops getting repaired and inspected since then, thousands of dollars later. To say I'm stressed and frustrated is an understatement.

Any advice on what I could do would be really appreciated. I cannot just sell/total it because I don't have sufficient savings/credit to buy a decent newer car, and this Mustang has been operating perfectly since I bought it.

Bought the car when it had 30K miles, has 107K now. Never drove aggressively and never had any issues until I hit the pothole with 103K miles.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
5,104 Posts
Welcome and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules if you haven’t already.
We encourage you to complete your Account Settings.
Do you need help posting? Please read this FAQ.

We’re happy you have chosen to be a part of our community.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,717 Posts
Hey all,

I'm hoping I can find answers or advice on Mustang forums as I have an issue that I've been dealing with on my 03 V6 for a while.

For context, in June I hit a pothole the size of a crater. It was either hit the pot hole, or crash into another car. The pot hole impact was so bad that I lost control of the car and hit the stone barrier in the middle of the road. I was going roughly 50. The driver side wheels were both destroyed, strut tower was bent inward about 2 inches and the chasis was bent.

The repairs and parts are as follows:

  • New brake rotors in the front wheels
  • New ball joints in front wheels
  • 4 new tires
  • Koni STR.T shocks/struts (the orange ones)
  • SR Performance Lowering Springs - Sport (Could not find OEM Ford springs)
  • Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
  • Frame re-alignment back to Ford spec
  • Front fender and rear panel replaced

The exterior of the car looks new again, but the driver side of the body is still sagging about half to 3/4 of an inch lower than the passenger side. The body sagging was happening before I replaced the shocks/struts and springs. A mechanic told me new shocks/struts and springs would fix the problem. It didn't. The driver side front wheel also keeps falling out of alignment with the camber falling inward no matter how many times I have the wheels aligned.

Pep Boys (where I got the tires and warranty on tires/alignment) (3 different Pep Boys stores), 4 different mechanics, 3 body shops and even a mechanic that specializes in modding/restoring Mustangs have all inspected the suspension, chasis, springs, shocks, struts and control arms, with everyone giving a thumbs up to the car. If so many professionals are giving my car the thumbs up, yet the body is still sagging and the driver side front wheel keeps falling out of alignment, something isn't right. The springs are evenly aligned from the tires, to the ground, to the chasis, to the body, etc. The shocks/struts are brand new and installed properly, the frame is evenly aligned to Ford spec and the camber plates are brand new, with the passenger side camber holding alignment. There's something between the body and the chasis that's causing this, I just don't know what it is.

I'm completely stumped. I hit the pot hole in June, and it has been in and out of shops getting repaired and inspected since then, thousands of dollars later. To say I'm stressed and frustrated is an understatement.

Any advice on what I could do would be really appreciated. I cannot just sell/total it because I don't have sufficient savings/credit to buy a decent newer car, and this Mustang has been operating perfectly since I bought it.

Bought the car when it had 30K miles, has 107K now. Never drove aggressively and never had any issues until I hit the pothole with 103K miles.
My thought is that the shop who did the Frame re-alignment was off about 3/4". They may have been within Ford specifications, but did they measure the other side? The other side may have been out of specs, for whatever reason. If I was in your situation, I would purchase a spring that I could cut to address the 3/4" . Seems that with the number of "professionals" that have been involved, someone would have come up with a solution. I am a total novice with this type of thing. Maybe some of our more experienced frame and body members can join in. Keep us informed of your progress.
 
  • Like
Reactions: massacre

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,277 Posts
Hey all,

I'm hoping I can find answers or advice on Mustang forums as I have an issue that I've been dealing with on my 03 V6 for a while.

For context, in June I hit a pothole the size of a crater. It was either hit the pot hole, or crash into another car. The pot hole impact was so bad that I lost control of the car and hit the stone barrier in the middle of the road. I was going roughly 50. The driver side wheels were both destroyed, strut tower was bent inward about 2 inches and the chasis was bent.

The repairs and parts are as follows:

  • New brake rotors in the front wheels
  • New ball joints in front wheels
  • 4 new tires
  • Koni STR.T shocks/struts (the orange ones)
  • SR Performance Lowering Springs - Sport (Could not find OEM Ford springs)
  • Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
  • Frame re-alignment back to Ford spec
  • Front fender and rear panel replaced

The exterior of the car looks new again, but the driver side of the body is still sagging about half to 3/4 of an inch lower than the passenger side. The body sagging was happening before I replaced the shocks/struts and springs. A mechanic told me new shocks/struts and springs would fix the problem. It didn't. The driver side front wheel also keeps falling out of alignment with the camber falling inward no matter how many times I have the wheels aligned.

Pep Boys (where I got the tires and warranty on tires/alignment) (3 different Pep Boys stores), 4 different mechanics, 3 body shops and even a mechanic that specializes in modding/restoring Mustangs have all inspected the suspension, chasis, springs, shocks, struts and control arms, with everyone giving a thumbs up to the car. If so many professionals are giving my car the thumbs up, yet the body is still sagging and the driver side front wheel keeps falling out of alignment, something isn't right. The springs are evenly aligned from the tires, to the ground, to the chasis, to the body, etc. The shocks/struts are brand new and installed properly, the frame is evenly aligned to Ford spec and the camber plates are brand new, with the passenger side camber holding alignment. There's something between the body and the chasis that's causing this, I just don't know what it is.

I'm completely stumped. I hit the pot hole in June, and it has been in and out of shops getting repaired and inspected since then, thousands of dollars later. To say I'm stressed and frustrated is an understatement.

Any advice on what I could do would be really appreciated. I cannot just sell/total it because I don't have sufficient savings/credit to buy a decent newer car, and this Mustang has been operating perfectly since I bought it.

Bought the car when it had 30K miles, has 107K now. Never drove aggressively and never had any issues until I hit the pothole with 103K miles.
Well, IMHO, pep boys is not the place to get "Good Info from Good Techs". You need to find a real frame shop to put the car on the rack and find out exactly what is going on. There are several different types of frame racks.....ranging from old school to sound wave, lazer, etc..... any will do the job with a "Real Tech".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, IMHO, pep boys is not the place to get "Good Info from Good Techs". You need to find a real frame shop to put the car on the rack and find out exactly what is going on. There are several different types of frame racks.....ranging from old school to sound wave, lazer, etc..... any will do the job with a "Real Tech".
Didn’t get the frame repaired at Pep Boys. Went to a body shop for that. Pep Boys only installed new tires and corrected the alignment when the wheel inevitably went off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,277 Posts
Didn’t get the frame repaired at Pep Boys. Went to a body shop for that. Pep Boys only installed new tires and corrected the alignment when the wheel inevitably went off.
I understand that.............. but when a mechanic states that suspension components will straighten a "Sagging Chassis", there is just no way to even begin to respond to something like that..... it's just completely off-base. This ia a unibody structural related issue.... plain and simple.... in short, somebody did not do their job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I understand that.............. but when a mechanic states that suspension components will straighten a "Sagging Chassis", there is just no way to even begin to respond to something like that..... it's just completely off-base. This ia a unibody structural related issue.... plain and simple.... in short, somebody did not do their job!
The first shop of about 9 that have seen this car suggested I get new shocks/struts/springs, while ignoring the bent strut tower, insisting I had nothing to worry about. That’s just one small example of incompetence I’ve encountered with many of these shops. Another one wanted to charge me 1,700 for an entire front suspension rebuild and didn’t even put it on the lift, much less notice the body sagging. (Ran away from that shop immediately)

The body shop that finally did realign the frame properly did use their laser measuring system, got the frame back to original spec and the body looks new again. The body still sags, and sagged before I changed the shocks, struts and springs.

There has to be something that has to do with the body being connected to the chassis that is causing the sag. It’s the only theory I have to go on and something that maybe the body shop missed.

All I know is several body shops and mechanics have looked at the suspension and frame top to bottom and have all said the suspension components are good, and can’t figure out why the body still sags and wheel keeps going out of alignment.

I am now experiencing a shake when I break, a shimmy in the steering and pulls to the right when I let go of the wheel. I’m experiencing a by the books case of worn control arm bushings, but a mechanic just looked at it and said the bushings are good.

I don’t know what to ask the body shop or mechanic to look at and I have no knowledge or tools to do this myself, hence why I’m posting on forums to ask for any direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,277 Posts
The body shop that finally did realign the frame properly did use their laser measuring system, got the frame back to original spec and the body looks new again. The body still sags, and sagged before I changed the shocks, struts and springs.

There has to be something that has to do with the body being connected to the chassis that is causing the sag. It’s the only theory I have to go on and something that maybe the body shop missed.
Ok, to start with there is no frame under this car!!!!! It does have a front sub-frame member which is 2 pieces of metal that the engine/suspension bolts to and it bolts to the car body.... the rear does not even have this as it bolts to the body as well.

IMHO, 1st is to take it back to the frame shop who straightened it and ask for input as to why/where is causing the sagging. The frame shop will know the answer.

2nd..... post an FYI recommendation on a frame shop for the area that you live in......

3rd... when you go there, go with a friend who can talk mechanics..... it's not easy I know. When one of my relative's vehicles had an autobody repair issue, I must have gone to 20+ shops just to fine someone who 1) knew how to paint/color match, 2) Knew and had the equipment to align body panels and 3) was over 23 years of age!!!! (I'm not kidding on this one either)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
868 Posts
Assuming the body shop got the uni-body back in spec, the k-member is what the engine and all the front suspension is attached to. With that hard of an impact, I'd replace the k-member. Its probably cracked/bent upward (causing a lowering on the driver's side). With the car in neutral, have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while you lay in front of the car a watch for movement in the k-member.
 

·
Registered
04 v6
Joined
·
39 Posts
I mean food for thought but your entire k member could be shifted people talking about this car not having a real frame are spot on, theres really nothing to this car....and someone didnt do their job.

If I was in your shoes I'd try to get it in a lift establish a stand alone reference running on an x and y plane of the vehicle....hell some saw horses with a lazer level would work x plane being tire to tire to the car. Then y being front to back.

I'd raise the car up measure the lift I was using on all 4 corners and reference that to the ground reference you set up before. After doing this you should be able to create a relationship between your lift and your x y reference on the ground. If needed adjust your ground reference to match that of the lift so that they are parallel with each other on an x y plane.

From there you can finally measure points on the vehicle using a plumb Bob honestly and observe the angular geometric relationship based on your previously established reference.

I'm not a suspension guru however I do conduct mechanical calibration on imaging equipment and linear accelerators and the tolerances there when completed are sub mm and lasers and a plumb and Bob with a level can get you alot more then you realize.

Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I mean food for thought but your entire k member could be shifted people talking about this car not having a real frame are spot on, theres really nothing to this car....and someone didnt do their job.

If I was in your shoes I'd try to get it in a lift establish a stand alone reference running on an x and y plane of the vehicle....hell some saw horses with a lazer level would work x plane being tire to tire to the car. Then y being front to back.

I'd raise the car up measure the lift I was using on all 4 corners and reference that to the ground reference you set up before. After doing this you should be able to create a relationship between your lift and your x y reference on the ground. If needed adjust your ground reference to match that of the lift so that they are parallel with each other on an x y plane.

From there you can finally measure points on the vehicle using a plumb Bob honestly and observe the angular geometric relationship based on your previously established reference.

I'm not a suspension guru however I do conduct mechanical calibration on imaging equipment and linear accelerators and the tolerances there when completed are sub mm and lasers and a plumb and Bob with a level can get you alot more then you realize.

Just my 2 cents.
This is the first time I’m ever hearing about this part and it makes a lot of sense. I am taking the car back to the body shop on Wednesday and will have them check the K member.

Wouldn’t that only fix the front of the car? The rear driver side wheel is sagging lower than the driver side.

I found several K member kits not including control arms (since everyone who looked at it said the control arms are good), and the average cost was around 600. This looks like a heavily labor intensive repair, so I’m assuming I’m looking at a total investment of I guess 1,300. Would that be a fair guess?

Ok, to start with there is no frame under this car!!!!! It does have a front sub-frame member which is 2 pieces of metal that the engine/suspension bolts to and it bolts to the car body.... the rear does not even have this as it bolts to the body as well.

IMHO, 1st is to take it back to the frame shop who straightened it and ask for input as to why/where is causing the sagging. The frame shop will know the answer.

2nd..... post an FYI recommendation on a frame shop for the area that you live in......

3rd... when you go there, go with a friend who can talk mechanics..... it's not easy I know. When one of my relative's vehicles had an autobody repair issue, I must have gone to 20+ shops just to fine someone who 1) knew how to paint/color match, 2) Knew and had the equipment to align body panels and 3) was over 23 years of age!!!! (I'm not kidding on this one either)
Thankfully I’m not the only one who struggled finding a reliable shop. All of the shops I went to had 1,000+ 4-5 star ratings on Google with rave reviews from genuine customers.

Taking it back to the shop on Wednesday. My girlfriends landlord is a mechanic and restores cars so I’ll pay him in coffee and beer to tag along.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
5,104 Posts
Could you take some detailed pics, and show us the sagging you’re talking about?
 

·
Registered
04 v6
Joined
·
39 Posts
Wouldn’t that only fix the front of the car? The rear driver side wheel is sagging lower than the driver side.
Everything is more or less dependent on each other. Your k member being the center piece of the whole puzzle. I would work on one variable at a time till I'd developed a strong centerline bisecting the vehicle front to back. Because if something is bent out of shape on one side it could cause the suspension geometry to over compensate on the otherside. I'm not sure how drastic the difference your discussing on the rear is but I'd still wager your best bet would be to work symmetrically inside to out, front to rear. Also by establishing a sound reference your better equiped to notice anything that is off center, miss aligned, warped, bent, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Could you take some detailed pics, and show us the sagging you’re talking about?
Probably should have done this at first.

Here are some videos of a complete walk around showing the camber alignment, sagging on the body from top of the tire to body of the car and as clear of a view underneath the car as I can physically reach. In the folder also are some images showing the alignment on a hill facing down the hill. The camber looks far more out of alignment here than the videos.

Happy to take more images if the videos don't give anyone a clear view.

 

·
Registered
04 v6
Joined
·
39 Posts
Honestly its difficult to deduce much from the video other than I can see what your talking about. Two things I noted though:

One if you still have them I would put the stock camber plates back one.
This removes any variables introduced by the MM caster camber plates. either that or mark your current position on the plates and then drive them to the far limit in the same direction, like make them both the same. Either in or out if that makes sense. Essentially by doing that you would know that they are equally set to one extreme or another thus removing one variable. Also a lot of shops cant set them properly to save their lives if someone else was doing the alignment on there.

The other is for sure that driver rear trailing arm has some torsion going on in it. It is noticeable twisted for sure.

Again, for now I think your best bet would be to start in the front, from the centerline of the car towards the tires. Ill have to find it, but there is a procedure for the K member alignment, I think you can view it for free on LMR but cant remember at the moment ill find it though. Id start there. Next I would for sure pull of the front and rear sway bars while the car is on jacks to see how the suspended resting geometry looks on the vehicle. So long as the sway bars are on there now anything your looking at is distorted because the sway bar is linking both the left and right side of the vehicle, both front and back. Also disconnecting it is not to much work and something that can be done in ones driveway.

Hopefully with the videos and pics some others will be able to weigh in some more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Honestly its difficult to deduce much from the video other than I can see what your talking about. Two things I noted though:

One if you still have them I would put the stock camber plates back one.
This removes any variables introduced by the MM caster camber plates. either that or mark your current position on the plates and then drive them to the far limit in the same direction, like make them both the same. Either in or out if that makes sense. Essentially by doing that you would know that they are equally set to one extreme or another thus removing one variable. Also a lot of shops cant set them properly to save their lives if someone else was doing the alignment on there.

The other is for sure that driver rear trailing arm has some torsion going on in it. It is noticeable twisted for sure.

Again, for now I think your best bet would be to start in the front, from the centerline of the car towards the tires. Ill have to find it, but there is a procedure for the K member alignment, I think you can view it for free on LMR but cant remember at the moment ill find it though. Id start there. Next I would for sure pull of the front and rear sway bars while the car is on jacks to see how the suspended resting geometry looks on the vehicle. So long as the sway bars are on there now anything your looking at is distorted because the sway bar is linking both the left and right side of the vehicle, both front and back. Also disconnecting it is not to much work and something that can be done in ones driveway.

Hopefully with the videos and pics some others will be able to weigh in some more.
Looking back at the video it’s clear now that the rear trailing arm is twisted. On the passenger wheel the shock is mounted to the part straight, yet driver side is noticeably bent sideways to the left. How I didn’t notice that before is mind boggling, and how any shop didn’t notice that is troubling if you noticed it from a video shot on a phone at night.

I still have the original camber plates. I would rather have them on the car with OEM springs but I cannot for the life of me find genuine Ford springs for the car. I looked everywhere and the 3 Ford dealers near me don’t have any in stock. The only part distributor I found that has new springs for my model year only has rear springs, selling for 900 dollars, and that’s insane to pay for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,277 Posts
IIRR Eaton is the mfg of the (most) oem springs.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hey all,

I'm hoping I can find answers or advice on Mustang forums as I have an issue that I've been dealing with on my 03 V6 for a while.

For context, in June I hit a pothole the size of a crater. It was either hit the pot hole, or crash into another car. The pot hole impact was so bad that I lost control of the car and hit the stone barrier in the middle of the road. I was going roughly 50. The driver side wheels were both destroyed, strut tower was bent inward about 2 inches and the chasis was bent.

The repairs and parts are as follows:

  • New brake rotors in the front wheels
  • New ball joints in front wheels
  • 4 new tires
  • Koni STR.T shocks/struts (the orange ones)
  • SR Performance Lowering Springs - Sport (Could not find OEM Ford springs)
  • Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
  • Frame re-alignment back to Ford spec
  • Front fender and rear panel replaced

The exterior of the car looks new again, but the driver side of the body is still sagging about half to 3/4 of an inch lower than the passenger side. The body sagging was happening before I replaced the shocks/struts and springs. A mechanic told me new shocks/struts and springs would fix the problem. It didn't. The driver side front wheel also keeps falling out of alignment with the camber falling inward no matter how many times I have the wheels aligned.

Pep Boys (where I got the tires and warranty on tires/alignment) (3 different Pep Boys stores), 4 different mechanics, 3 body shops and even a mechanic that specializes in modding/restoring Mustangs have all inspected the suspension, chasis, springs, shocks, struts and control arms, with everyone giving a thumbs up to the car. If so many professionals are giving my car the thumbs up, yet the body is still sagging and the driver side front wheel keeps falling out of alignment, something isn't right. The springs are evenly aligned from the tires, to the ground, to the chasis, to the body, etc. The shocks/struts are brand new and installed properly, the frame is evenly aligned to Ford spec and the camber plates are brand new, with the passenger side camber holding alignment. There's something between the body and the chasis that's causing this, I just don't know what it is.

I'm completely stumped. I hit the pot hole in June, and it has been in and out of shops getting repaired and inspected since then, thousands of dollars later. To say I'm stressed and frustrated is an understatement.

Any advice on what I could do would be really appreciated. I cannot just sell/total it because I don't have sufficient savings/credit to buy a decent newer car, and this Mustang has been operating perfectly since I bought it.

Bought the car when it had 30K miles, has 107K now. Never drove aggressively and never had any issues until I hit the pothole with 103K miles.
I HIGHLY recommend you contact the guys at GTR High Performance located in Rancho Cucamonga, CA (Near Ontario, CA). They are Mustang experts and are really nice guys. I’m sure they could give you some good advise, even if you’re out of state and can’t bring your car to them.
 

·
Registered
2004 GT convertable 40th anniversary automatic
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hey all,

I'm hoping I can find answers or advice on Mustang forums as I have an issue that I've been dealing with on my 03 V6 for a while.

For context, in June I hit a pothole the size of a crater. It was either hit the pot hole, or crash into another car. The pot hole impact was so bad that I lost control of the car and hit the stone barrier in the middle of the road. I was going roughly 50. The driver side wheels were both destroyed, strut tower was bent inward about 2 inches and the chasis was bent.

The repairs and parts are as follows:

  • New brake rotors in the front wheels
  • New ball joints in front wheels
  • 4 new tires
  • Koni STR.T shocks/struts (the orange ones)
  • SR Performance Lowering Springs - Sport (Could not find OEM Ford springs)
  • Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
  • Frame re-alignment back to Ford spec
  • Front fender and rear panel replaced

The exterior of the car looks new again, but the driver side of the body is still sagging about half to 3/4 of an inch lower than the passenger side. The body sagging was happening before I replaced the shocks/struts and springs. A mechanic told me new shocks/struts and springs would fix the problem. It didn't. The driver side front wheel also keeps falling out of alignment with the camber falling inward no matter how many times I have the wheels aligned.

Pep Boys (where I got the tires and warranty on tires/alignment) (3 different Pep Boys stores), 4 different mechanics, 3 body shops and even a mechanic that specializes in modding/restoring Mustangs have all inspected the suspension, chasis, springs, shocks, struts and control arms, with everyone giving a thumbs up to the car. If so many professionals are giving my car the thumbs up, yet the body is still sagging and the driver side front wheel keeps falling out of alignment, something isn't right. The springs are evenly aligned from the tires, to the ground, to the chasis, to the body, etc. The shocks/struts are brand new and installed properly, the frame is evenly aligned to Ford spec and the camber plates are brand new, with the passenger side camber holding alignment. There's something between the body and the chasis that's causing this, I just don't know what it is.

I'm completely stumped. I hit the pot hole in June, and it has been in and out of shops getting repaired and inspected since then, thousands of dollars later. To say I'm stressed and frustrated is an understatement.

Any advice on what I could do would be really appreciated. I cannot just sell/total it because I don't have sufficient savings/credit to buy a decent newer car, and this Mustang has been operating perfectly since I bought it.

Bought the car when it had 30K miles, has 107K now. Never drove aggressively and never had any issues until I hit the pothole with 103K miles.
Has anyone checked to see if your drivers side front shock tower is out of alignment? My son's 04 GT had a similar problem and the cause was a rusted portion of the shock tower that allowed it to get out of square.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top