[Megacat]

Had a hankering for a project car.

I've done quite a few import cars in the past engine swaps, larger turbo's, rebuilt transmissions and engines but wanted something different.

240's in my area are as most notice ridiculously expensive with a stock ka in it.

I wanted a 350z, as they are the new 240 but did not have the patience to wait one out. That was probably a mistake.

Figured I would give a mustang a try. plentiful, rwd, cheapish, v8, my friend got one as well.

I ubered out to see this a mustang with cash in hand from 'offer up'

On the test drive I noticed it needed some front end work and the input shaft on the transmission was bad and causing a whine in gears 1-3. Since it cleared up in 4th gear, I figured this was the issue.

Screw it, I didn't see any rust on the frame, it was black with no bs sunroof, it ran fine, ac worked and it was the cheapest gt in my area. Granted I rushed the sale, my uber driver was super weird and the sale did not take place in the best neighborhood.

The guy seemed honest but clearly knew nothing about cars, I paid 3400 for it and drove it home.

Drove it around for 2 days and it was doing fine, on 3rd day it broke down on me, overheated. Turns out the thermostat was bad.

At that point I figured I would replace the thermostat, waterpump and dd while waiting to do the transmission.

Sold a car, had money for a rebuilt transmission (tr3650). Sprung for that.

Then noticed this rust on the frame rail/strut tower up front. ****.

I took a closer look and it was everywhere. At this point I decided to take the engine out with the transmission and see how bad the damage really was - again ****.

The damage on both sides was bad, Rust everwhere, I comenced with cutting the bad parts out and didn't stop until no more rust was to be found, this involved eventually dropping the k-member.

I then I went to lowes and picked up 1/8" thick carbon steel to perform the repair. The tools I used was an angle grinder to cut the pieces and a dewalt drill bit, the best they had (which is not saying much).

I was welding with flux core on a eastwood mig 135, I welded both sides of everything. My welds improved as the project progressed but all welds are solid.

Made crush sleeves and boxed it in

laying some bead

Various progress pics:

Passenger side done pre-paint, I painted the inside and coated with a rust inhibitor oil after completion:

Driver's side done in engine bay

Driver side in wheel well:

Now that the rust was repaired, I set to giving the engine all new seals, noticed a broken chain guide in the oil pan, so replaced that

The chain kit I got was from ebay and although the chain was fine, some of the guides were thinner than oem and the tensions were garbage I replaced the broken guide and reused some of the old guides as they were just better. I replaced the **** tensioners with ones from advanced that were good quality, carquest.

Rebuilt transmission arrived during this time

I gave the car a chromoloy light weight flywheel, exedy stage 2 pressureplate/clutch, oem pilot bushing while at it. I also replaced the clutch fork, look at this wear on the throwout bearing tension spring.

Got some bay headers mounted those on. Folks said speed daddy was ok, well they needed to be decked and the holes all enlarged, then they fit ok, I wouldnt do it again. I got speeddaddy to refund me 50 bucks.

Gave the car a new steering rack, steering shaft, poly bushings on the control arms, sway bar end links, differential pinion shaft seal, brakes all around, stainless lines

She's almost ready to be back on the road.

once the car is back on the road, I need to decide on what suspension to go with, coilovers that is or just a good spring combo. I cut the a coil out of the front springs and that brought the front down nicely but that is temporary.

Other maintenance I've done to the car, coolant temp sensor, fuel injectors rebuilt, fuel filter. Poly stuff new ball joints:

Also the car has a bbk x pipe and slp loudmouth.

I will install 373's down the road. I was going to turbo it but at this point may just daily drive it and not have to blow more parts on it!

I hope you all enjoyed.

 

[145566]

If you stick with the four link rear suspension stick with rubber upper control arm bushings (both ends)unless you reinforce the torque boxes. Urethane in the uppers can cause binding resulting in chassis damage. Replace the lowers with “new and improved”
Cutting a coil on a progressive rate spring isn’t that good of an idea.
If you get new springs don’t slam the cht out of it. There’s not too much wiggle room for drop with stock suspension before the geometry is changed and it handles worse. They can be made to handle fairly well but you can’t really drop it too fast or too furious.

 

[Megacat]

If you stick with the four link rear suspension stick with rubber upper control arm bushings (both ends)unless you reinforce the torque boxes. Urethane in the uppers can cause binding resulting in chassis damage. Replace the lowers with “new and improved”
Cutting a coil on a progressive rate spring isn’t that good of an idea.
If you get new springs don’t slam the cht out of it. There’s not too much wiggle room for drop with stock suspension before the geometry is changed and it handles worse. They can be made to handle fairly well but you can’t really drop it too fast or too furious.

Thank you for the tips! I have not touched the rear suspension but will be doing so soon.

I have weld in subframe connectors to install, and upper and lower torque boxes that I will bolt on then weld in.

I don't want to stance the car but giving it some more low would be nice with added performance. I'm open to an all around suspension option that will be good for DD and handling.

Cutting the springs up front - it was riding like a truck up front just did it because I wont be running like that for long haha.

What drop is the max that is suggested?

 

[145566]

If you stick with the four link rear suspension stick with rubber upper control arm bushings (both ends)unless you reinforce the torque boxes. Urethane in the uppers can cause binding resulting in chassis damage. Replace the lowers with “new and improved”
Cutting a coil on a progressive rate spring isn’t that good of an idea.
If you get new springs don’t slam the cht out of it. There’s not too much wiggle room for drop with stock suspension before the geometry is changed and it handles worse. They can be made to handle fairly well but you can’t really drop it too fast or too furious.

Thank you for the tips! I have not touched the rear suspension but will be doing so soon.

I have weld in subframe connectors to install, and upper and lower torque boxes that I will bolt on then weld in.

I don't want to stance the car but giving it some more low would be nice with added performance. I'm open to an all around suspension option that will be good for DD and handling.

Cutting the springs up front - it was riding like a truck up front just did it because I wont be running like that for long haha.

What drop is the max that is suggested?

I wouldn’t go lower than 1-1/4” I don’t think. My ‘95 is lowered less than an inch (17” wheels) with Ford racing B springs and I like them. They’re a progressive rate, firm but not too firm. No real body roll to speak of, but I don’t road race or auto x. But handling is much improved from when it was stock. I had a ‘90 that had eibach sportline’s on it and I think they dropped it about an inch and a half. It was too low (exhaust scraping speed bumps) and rode like a chuck wagon. It had Koni str-t shocks/struts. They were ok but no better no worse than the KYB excel g’s that are on my ‘95.
I had someone do the rear suspension so I bought new oem style (rubber bushings) upper control arms vs paying someone to remove the uppers, replace bushings, and install again. The axle side upper control arm bushing was replaced with new rubbers. For the lowers I went with J&M street/strip. They have a poly ball in the “bushing cups” that’s supposed to keep them from binding. That mild little setup tamed the rear a lot. Not near as much tail wag during hard launches. It generally takes off pretty straight unless I dump it from too high of an rpm. Over all cornering is much flatter and more controlled. I think a panhard bar would be a good addition to the rear.
The J&M’s are on sale. Looks like they might be discontinuing them. They’re not junk though. Good strong welds.
https://lmr.com/item/JM-23859/jm-mustang-rear-lower-control-arms-9904-street

https://lmr.com/item/M5300B/79-04-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Progressive-Rate-Lowering-Spring-Kit

 

[145566]

These are pretty nice shifters. I’ve never tried one on a tr-3650, but the ones for the T-5 are pretty dope.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/noname1.html
Match the cams and rear gear if you swap them.

 

[Megacat]

Your cars stance is perfect and to know that it also performs well is great.

Thanks for the input next round of mods I know where to go.

Also glad to hear I dont have to go coilover to get the desired stance/ride I want.

I was looking at feals coilovers but at 1500 I'll not do that.

Are you saying not to get this complete j&m kit?

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9904CAK/99-04-mustang-rear-control-arm-kit-j-m-9904cak

 

[145566]

Your cars stance is perfect and to know that it also performs well is great.

Thanks for the input next round of mods I know where to go.

Also glad to hear I dont have to go coilover to get the desired stance/ride I want.

I was looking at feals coilovers but at 1500 I'll not do that.

Are you saying not to get this complete j&m kit?

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9904CAK/99-04-mustang-rear-control-arm-kit-j-m-9904cak

Thanks.
My rear was done in ‘16 (sounds terrible..) and at the time I was going to do aftermarket uppers and lowers, but the J&M guy talked me out of the uppers, or maybe at the time they didn’t have the uppers w the poly ball? But yeah I’d probably get the kit. Especially if you’re reinforcing the torque boxes. On J&M’s site they list a “street” and a “street/race.” I can’t find where it says what’s the difference between them other than color though.
https://hotpart.com/product-categor...004-mustang/79-04-mustang-street-race-adjustable-upper-control-arm-jm-products/

 

[Megacat]

Awesome man thank you. I just got it back on the road today, fixing 1 exhaust leak but no fluid leaks as I replaced all engine seals etc. 1 coil cut spring stance is good for me, when I want to actually do some performance stuff with it ill put a real suspension setup on it.

I'll get the kit in a couple of months once I save back up - haha.